joecoozie

I sent you a Private Message but I am not sure you can get them yet because you are new to the site. See if you can send me one Joe

Sniper is correct. There is a rubber o-ring that seals the cap and they get stuck from years of being tightened down. Take a rubber mallet and tap upward along the edge of the cap . This will loosen the cap from the filter housing. (hopefully you drained some oil out of the filter otherwise you may have a mess from oil in the canister coming out over the top) Also, there should be a spring on the inside of the cap that the bolt goes through. That could be the "clicking" sound you hear.

Hey GrumpyJim, There is a car show tomorrow, Sept 10th, at the Pleasant Valley Middle School Are you planning on attending? Joe

Don, The more pictures you show of these cars the more I regret selling mine (many,many years ago.)

It could be a Suburban which had 3 seats or a Carry-All which had 2 seats' (like a regular 4-door sedan) I had a 49 (real 49 not an early one) Suburban Sedan of which there were only 129 made. I have not seen another one I also had a 1951 Carry-All I wish I had kept them.

MOST - like 99.9999999% of Travelers have lost that step plate through the years. Much like Studebaker Wagonaires are missing the step rail on the tailgate - which isn't hard to replicate - it's just tubular steel.

Great. If you want to get together ASAP let me know Maybe we can meet up this weekend if you want. I don't know if you can get PM's yet or not but I sent you one anyway with my phone # Looking forward to meeting you and seeing your car.

I see you are in Penna. Where in Pa. are you located? I am in Stroudsburg, Pa and if you're not too far we can get together and I can help with your car. I have owned several of the 46-49 Chryslers,Dodges,DeSotos and Plymouths - later years, too. Joe

I have used needle nose pliers, too, to remove/tighten that bezel with the slots

PICS?????

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You have to put the seat bottom cushion in on an angle (back part down and under the rear seat/back cushion) and while holding the front of the cushion up (slightly) push the cushion in and under the back cushion

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=ignition coil&referer=v2

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I was looking for one for you but I could not find one. I apologize for that. Don't know why an 11" cap won't fit.

Best way to "find" them is to find a parts car that has solid ones. They are not reproduced. I have some from a 46 Chrysler parts car that I will be using on my 49 Plymouth - one of these years.......

Did the gauge work before the new tank/sending unit? Make sure the sending unit is well grounded. Running an extra ground wire from the sending unit to the frame (or any other part of the body) makes for a good ground.

Hard to see Maybe it will help

Thanks for the pics I am sure you'll remember once it is back together

Does the linkage connect on the passenger side of the engine? Please post a picture of the side(s) of the engine so we can see if we can pinpoint the correct location From looking at some "not so great" pictures it seems like the bracket may bolt onto the manifold(s) - just a guess.

Yes, you can pull the engine only but you will have to remove the transmission/bellhousing/FD unit. Removing the front floor panel ( it's bolted in) will give you all the access you'll need to make the job a lot easier. I have done it several times this way - without removing the inner fenders. However, in the shop manual, there is a procedure for removing the fenders/grille, etc all in one piece - if you want to do that.

The color is aluminum for the head and block. We can get into the other parts attached to the engine - if you want to.

Sometimes the valves need to be rotated or spun to break up the rust. I know this because...... I had a 1951 Pontiac with several stuck valves and I soaked them, beat them down with a rubber mallet, etc, but they continued to get stuck in the open position. Since I had the head off, as you do, I used a pair of pliers that had rubber-lined jaws to grab the valve head and rotate the valve (while squirting lube down the stem) This fixed the sticking problem and caused no damage to the valves. Also, while you have the valve covers off, make sure you clean out the area(s) where the oil pools (it's the area below the springs). I'll bet if you stick your finger in there you will find that the pools are loaded with sludge - which is normal for an old engine that was never rebuilt or taken apart. Just clean them out and wipe out the residue. Same thing when you drop the oil pan - clean out the sludge and clean the pickup screen, too.

Sounds like vapor lock or the fuel pump is suspect. If you let the car cool off does it start and run good? If so, does it start to act up when it gets warmed up?

Shop Manual - pages 266-268