Young Ed

Car ran down to the show and back perfectly. It's about 60 miles round trip. We did spend some time in traffic which really sucks in a car with no AC. Here's a few pics I took. This was a little challenging. The other 2 cars were ready parked and they wanted me to back in there but I was coming from the wrong direction... Had to snap a couple pics of the Empi that was there. Unfortunately it was about to rain so I didn't get a chance to really talk to the owner. He was about to run for home.

Car drove out to the driveway and seems to be good! I'll know for sure after the show tomorrow.

Haha I outsmarted myself and had it back on the idler arm so I wouldn't loose it!!

Oil pan repair held gasoline all day. I figured if it holds that it should hold oil. Pan is back on and just about got everything else reinstalled. Gotta locate one castle nut for the steering that seems to have rolled away.....

Long term I'll scoop up a new pan. Luckily this is one of the parts that fits between A and LA 318s so a new pan is readily available but of course not in time for the weekend and then the cars trip to the trans shop to get that leaking fixed!

If you don't need high HP I'd consider some sort of v6 from a Dakota with the matching 5spd. Never done it though

Snowballed so much it might as well be December! Simple project I thought to replace a broken dipstick tube glued in place by a previous owner. Bottom of it was basically flush with block and the rest was stuck inside. Orangish piece is a blob of glue or gasket maker they used to try and hold it in place. Last fall when checking the oil before our last trip of the season the dipstick tube came out with the dipstick! Fast forward to this summer. New tube purchased. Tried easy out, tapped some threads in it and tried pulling it with a bolt and a slide hammer. Tried to put string trimmer string through it and out the dipstick so I could push it through. Nothing so I resorted to drilling. Got just about done and the drill snagged and snapped off a 3/8 drill in the block. So off comes the pan. Maybe a rookie mistake but I didn't know the hole necks down drastically at the bottom so my pushing through plan or drilling plan was destined to fail. Now tonight I got all the under hood stuff wrapped up and started cleaning the oil pan for when my gasket set arrives tomorrow. Tragedy strikes again. I started seeing an area in the pan that looked like the same gunk holding the dipstick. And then some other areas that had little blobs of rtv. Sure enough HOLES in my oil pan. Not the easiest to see but there are 3 holes that sorta form a triangle in the sump and a 4th not pictured under the gunk above. So tomorrow before I can reinstall anything I'll be attempting to weld these babies up.

Only real info I've found is an exploded view of the heaters in the p15 parts book.

The two versions of the fresh air heater don't use that knockout either. The fresh air comes in via the cowl vent and ducting to either the right side or dual heater cores. My p15 came with the dual fresh air heaters.

My compressor is in the middle of my shop and garage and I have iron pipe with a drop down all the way to the front and rear walls. I used short whips between the lengths to allow the compressor to vibrate and to go through the wall

I always guessed they were punched by rebuilders. I've seen some with no holes and some with.

Last fall I replaced just my muffler. Measured what I had and ordered from rock auto. I did have to buy a reducer for one side which also made up the little bit of length I was short.

Yesterday we lit off fireworks with the neighbors until the cops showed up.... We did some more tonight but apparently we used up all the big stuff last night.

Another item off the list and I believe the second to last expensive item with the last one being the full brake system. Also got my /6 modified distributor installed. The junkyard wiring harness from the donor turned out to have a bad ballast resistor. Luckily I had a random 78 Mopar shop manual so we were able to go through all the trouble shooting steps. Beyond that the gasket I had for the dist was too thick so it didn't seat enough to actually spin the dist! Spent a couple hours on it sat night with a fellow car addict neighbor and we got it running before we quit for the evening! Driveshaft was made up by a local shop. I went there Thurs and told them I had the T5 along with a jeep rear end. They happened to have leaning behind the register a driveshaft that was a little short for another customer that was long enough for them to cut down for me. Cutting balancing installing u joints and my yoke and I was out the door the next day for just under $250. Not cheap but in my head I was fearing worse.

Would a bullet connector pop in there? Mopar used a lot of those back then

I was going to go see if the can is still around here but that's what I did too. No special paint

I painted my 46s a brown without too much trouble. Back when quiet ride was selling direct they had tips on painting

Should bolt right together. Gotta watch a little if one is a 218 and one a 230

We're all setup to see them tomorrow on their second to last overnight stop. Be interesting to see who made it this far

There are 2 styles. One has all 3 connections on one side and the other is 2 and 1. Which do you have? I believe you need the all 3 on one side type

Typically you use a different needle valve fitting that goes right into the filter.

I saw a couple great looking 53s!

Can you measure the OD of the speedometer? I've been slowly working on putting 53 dodge car gauges in a 47 truck and maybe these would be a better fit

Throttle spring goes straight back from the linkage to a cotter pin that goes through the angled part of the floor. Sent you a PM too

What you described is how I have my Plymouth setup. I also have the line as far over to the inner fender and away from the engine heat as possible