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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Didn't see it mentioned but I find it helpful to climb in the car and do it with the door shut.
  2. I did mine last summer but I used generic CV joint boots rather than OEM style reproductions.
  3. Im aware it's possible just saying it seems to be the one part that's harder than a 2post
  4. I rebuilt my pump with a kit off eBay I think it was 20-25. It's been good for a couple summers now
  5. I've pretty much decided when I get a lift it's going to be a drive on one. With the sliding jacks it's really best of both worlds. Only thing you can't do easily it a project like removing body from frame
  6. You can buy a reproduction clear disk for the center to replace the shrunk one
  7. Take a punch and make some dimples. It creates a raised area that will make the bearing race a tight fit again
  8. That's a good question and one I haven't found the answer to.
  9. Where was the generic switch? The oem switch goes in the center of the control panel that bolts to the bottom of the dash. There is also a spacer ring that goes between the switch and the panel. I believe it's for the light but I rewired my car in 08 so it's been a while. Then as the other reply said the screw goes straight up from the bottom.
  10. You could but you'd be defeating most of the point in converting because all the 12v electronics are neg ground
  11. Next one- this is likely to snowball too but it'll be self induced. My wagon used to have aftermarket air deflectors at the rear. The one side still has 2 random screws. Other side they got patched I guess. Anyway I tracked down a set of the factory handles and air deflectors. The snowball part will come in when I start taking apart the ancient plastic trim to bolt these on.
  12. Yes they are certainly allowed. They were made 37-41. The 37-38 are a little more unique as they followed the car styling compared to 39-41 which is basically a dodge with a different upper grill and tailgate. I've got a basket case 40 stashed for a future project
  13. Got curious and grabbed one of my books. Says the second series was introduced in the spring of 65. Along with the new grill many changes to the bed including the elimination of the tailgate chains.
  14. Wasn't 65 a cross over year where they had an early and late design?
  15. The pin falling out is like a right of passage now. Be happy yours happened at home. Mine happened on the highway with my pregnant wife riding along
  16. Typically I would say that's lead from the gas that settles into the pan as that grey sludge. Since yours was rebuilt I guess it depends on when it was done and what fuel they used afterwards.
  17. Nice repaint though those don't look like SK tools in that box
  18. So similar through the years my 64 belvedere still has one at the trans end behind the torqueflite
  19. I've never seen one with a plug before. I think I'd go to the parts store and get whatever goes in a CV joint. I used generic CV boots to replace my original and used the grease it came with.
  20. I saw that on his recent video of the big Lincoln where he's not going to work on classics anymore. Be interesting to see what it ends at.
  21. You talking upper or lower and size of the eyelet or the actual thread part
  22. Personally I lay against the wheel and do it by feel. There's only 2 nuts and the cable. Oh and pull the light socket. They run diagonal I think about 5 and 10 o'clock.
  23. Interesting my 64 belvedere has one at the trans end but the 65s have conventional u joints. A bodies different?
  24. I am using modern CV boots on my p15. They were much more flexible and I had no issues wiggling them through the housing
  25. To fill you remove the cap just behind the base of your red arrow. Only open the filter lid when changing oil and filter.
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