Young Ed

It is. Had 30k miles when sold and I'd bet it's under 40 still

Random Facebook post on a nation wide group about a guy in Minneapolis who drives a Ford truck regularly. I figured he might be a Ford fan so took a long shot and asked if he ever sees a green falcon. Here's how it ended. For anyone not familiar with my mission Dad owned this one back in the 80s. He sold it to help pay for his 51 convert restore. I'm hoping to bring it back to the family.

There is a flat spot right at the top of the housing. Would be facing the floor of the car when installed. Look for the stamping there

I believe that is for the exhaust but the circle hanger belongs on the other end. You can just see it at the far end of the pic

Yes that's why the face after. I will admit I've used it in my coupe very briefly just to stretch my ankle but you are right not safe because there is no shutoff.

Cruise control on a longer drive ?

Very much a good possibility. I cleaned mine well and painted them white and the lights are good.

Yes and it should ... come off. You are right it can be stuck. I think the one seller off eBay recommends an old fork to slide under and pry.

Yes new disks are available from DCM or eBay. The little metal disk pulls off the speedometer and then can be pried apart. Replace the disk and then crimp the ring back onto the outside of the disk

My truck has a piece of semi mudflap we found at the curb. Been working great over 20y. I'd say you need the thicker stuff

It can be repaired either by a shop or by DIY splicing a donor gauge onto yours. There are directions on Tods website. https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

My throttle cable was broken so I have a heater switch as one of my 5. I suspect back then my heater switch would have been clamped on like that throttle cable

That is a strange layout. Everyone of these I've messed with has 5 controls in that little recessed area. Key in the center and then two on each side. That picture has a blank and then an add on for the throttle cable.

High beam indicator for 40-47 is that little circle about 2" up from the speedometer. Should have a red light when high beams are on. 39s only have it in the headlight switch

The best reference of the dash layout is in one of the few restoration guides. Also the 39-47 group has a pretty extensive photo library

Hope that made sense I wrote it when I had just gotten up! You keep up at this pace you might pass me up on my 47

Front mount goes metal on metal. The rubber is at the top. Rears should have a metal core and the bigger mount is the top with both of them being inserted to the frame piece.

I grabbed a set of those from harbor freight when I needed to get seatbelt anchor bolts out of the Dakota cab. Life savers!

Last night I had the privilege of using my new IR air hammer. I had a harbor freight one before and it wouldn't touch the hot rivets on the truck frame. This one I ground flat as usual and I think before I even had the trigger fully pressed the rivet was flying across the shop. I've also been eyeing a grypmat for a while now but didn't want to pay the $ for fancy silicone. Discovered today while grabbing an in lb torque wrench that harbor freight has knock offs. Grabbed the large as it was the only size they had. Used it all evening and it's awesome. Pile all the tools on it, little pockets for removed parts, and when done carried the whole works back to the tool box to clean up.

As usual with these things one step forward one step back. Got the fuel line in and went to test it. Put 3-4 gallons of fresh gas in. Truck wouldn't run after the initial prime ran out. Cracked the line at the carb and it was shooting out like it should. Pumped some into a cup and pure WATER!!!! So drained the tank and got at least double what I put in. So my fuel line is good but I have a bucket full of gas and water to figure out what to do with, a mystery of how the water got in there to begin with, and we had to drain the carb and suck water out of the intake.

If they were both the same length block they will interchange. There are a few different dump locations so that needs to match in order to not require changes to the exhaust system

That sounds more like you got windlace.

Before you do all that check your float setting. Also are you sure you didn't pump it before you tried to start? It's a habit for many myself included but my plymouth starts much better when hot if I can remember to just hit the key.

Other than not mentioning one of the pictures I submitted needed to be the VIN(they still call it than even though it's a serial #) the local branch was very helpful. I was fully expecting another round of hoops to jump through. It's a great feeling knowing the project is officially mine and I can insure and license it. I also pushed it in the garage and did a backwards step to install the fuel hardline from tank to pump. Pic is pre line but I've got it roughed in and just need to finalize securing it in place.

Well call me shocked. About a week after being asked for a photo of the VIN and only 3.5 weeks after the initial application I now have a title to the truck! Quite surprised since they said 2 months at least and possibly longer since I was doing a non title application.