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Semmerling

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Semmerling last won the day on March 27

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  • My Project Cars
    34 Dodge DR

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  • Location
    New England
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    the car

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  1. Thank you, appreciate that. For a single atmosphere the original carb was perfectly fine. The car doesn't need any more flow than the original carb, at least not in a meaningful way. Economy, perhaps all the rest in negligible by todays standards. The exhaust is where something can really make a difference. Anything else is accomplished by speed parts inside the engine...pistons, crank, valves, decking, porting and fuel. Then there are some gearing that can matter. If you want to go faster, get in a modern car.
  2. I can't figure out how to place pictures into the article where they belong.
  3. This is a forum and its not yours. If a person wants to ask him questions to understand his issue it might be "does it have a mercury switch" and what ever else a person might like to pleasantly ask. I gave him a link talking about my experience with mercury switches and what I did. Guess what? He has a problem with mercury switches and battery drain. One of the two of us thought that might be coming and asked. Back off or get help.
  4. Sniper, don't make a career of this. Ok, now that we actually know what he is using and the means of turning it on, now Sniper, we can answer his question. Me? I would bring the wire through the firewall and into a nicely prepared fuse panel and then provide a simple inside switch. Why? because the vast majority of the mercury switches I come across do not do a good job and tend to eventual fail, and do so as ON. Given that it is a mercury switch, I would allow for the means to turn it off for long term storage. Me? I remove the mercury switch, but thats just me.
  5. 1. How does your light turn on, is there a switch onboard, is it an old mercury style movement hood style, will you need to run it to a switch? 2. Do you want it to be able to be turned on only when the key is on or anytime? 3. Does it have a cord and is moveable or is it a surface mount stationary light? 4. Is it fused? If this is a small draw light, forget all the electrical instruments, they are not needed. Just use common sense and do not tap into anything having to do with the engine....just the running gear. If you have access back into the interior behind the dash you can properly fuse it or switch it, etc. If the light grounds when mounted and you always want to be able to turn it on at any time, well....that is a one wire run. All of this can impact where you tap power.
  6. Just take any steel standard plug and send it home. Grab a good quality neodymium magnet and slap it on the exterior top of the bolt. Will snap on there and wont come loose unless you scrape it off with force. No need to do anything else.
  7. Here you go - $10 for the rest of your life.... https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-20Pcs-1-5mm-Copper-Washer/dp/B07M7BKSWV?pd_rd_w=2CgyW&content-id=amzn1.sym.c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_p=c15e5526-d433-4ac0-a393-a3f3f7218fab&pf_rd_r=J3X8NMZW12E4F2FPX3QA&pd_rd_wg=Kz09E&pd_rd_r=122ed0e5-cf64-4aea-95b2-69531c5e8362&pd_rd_i=B07M7BKSWV&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t
  8. YES, in Champion "E" "H" and "Y" and one would need a real reason to use them and would have to see if they would work. The most common use of extended plugs is obviously when the stock head is designed to use them and, after that, there are VERY few uses for them. Swapping to an extended plug does exactly nothing in regard to IGNITION if your engine was designed for a non-extended plug and, as you and Sniper alluded to, can be an expensive mistake. But there are some very specific instances when they are used and there is work done BEFORE their use to see if it is safe. Since I cannot think of any reason to run an extended plug in a flathead 6 running a normal single atmosphere and isn't using NOS, what follows if for later engines and their use. All of what follows takes for granted that one's air/fuel mix is excellent. One needs to know that extended tips have a unique characteristic, they run HOT at lower RPM driving and COOLER during aggressive driving. Hotter because the tips are farther from the cooling effects of their ceramic wrap and cooler because of the increase in high RPM incoming air/fuel. The target here is the higher RPM range when they are ever replacing a normal length plug. In other words....high RPM racing. All of that is AFTER one has tried to simply run cooler plugs than the stock plug and only if one's car still displays the driving symptoms that hot plugs can manifest in performance builds. What are some of those symptoms? Well, they all exist of the fine edge of tuning and there are a number like exhaust popping on deceleration and/or hesitation in accelerating on a quick stomp after cruising at a constant speed for a period of time. Before somebody says "running too rich" read the 1st sentence of this paragraph.
  9. Sniper...it wasn't really in T1 - P4. But it was just a way of slipping in the felts as most don't replace them and they harden and wont carry lube to the upper shifting rail deck. Nor do they depress the spring loaded detents and lube them either. Its a crusade...a long lonely one....but, well, like an eternal sentinel....somebody has to do it..... Now, back to the action....the cache of vintage Canadian Lubrications....... PAdams...N, S, E, W...the where of it doesn't matter.....I get the call and its go time.
  10. Thread 1, paragraph 4 "My transmission doesn't have synchromesh, but it does still have non-ferrous within" "a person does need to know what weight they need to slow things down, stay in the case, etc." "Replace both felts as the May 19th 1934 fire is still the 2nd biggest fire in Chicago's history and started in a Stock Yard transmission shop"
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