Tom Skinner

I am still all original 6 Volt, Points, Condenser, Cap, and Rotor. I have contemplated changing over but haven't taken the leap. I made a T.D.C. Gauge also so finding Static Timing after a Points Change is a piece of cake. I wonder if the Pertronix is as good as everyone claims - that is to say (not having to tweak the Points and Timing) every so often to achieve maximum performance from our old sixes. My TDC Gauge. It goes in at No. 6 Cylinder.

The two range 1-2 and 3-4 Hydraulic Transmission or m6 with Fluid Coupler is most of the Chrashler 1946-1949 situations.

Thank you Donald Smith, that was what I thought, and wanted to share with others.

Well that was a big help. Not a simple yes or no? I guess I'm not supposed to ask questions when it comes to plymouthy adams. I believe from memory, there was a mention of a resistor being needed to accommodate the Fluid drive, but I thought I would ask. So plymouthy, how about letting others answer if you don't know or ain't willing to share information with others. I'll bet I'm not the only one wondering about this.

Question? Will this set up work with a Fluid Drive Tansmission? Will the Tranny Selenoid still "interupt" the Tranny to upshift, or downshift? Tom

Captain Neon and Meadowbrook, I run my cars year round. I don't store them with Stabil. I know for a fact all my vehicles all (5) run better without ethanol gas filler. So stick up for crappy gas if you want to, but I know better. The Government can sell that crap to you. I'm not buying. Love you mean it! Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Try buying non ethanol gas. My percolation problem went away completely when a QT opened near my house and I buy Ethanol Free Gas there. Who know what the Oil Companies are really putting in our Fuel (I mean the 10%) they are not telling us about. Probably some toxic waste. L.O.L.

Don, Nice. That reminds me, my Grandpa used to say: The Bear went over the Mountain... The Bear went over the Mountain... The bear went over the Mountain just to see what he could find.... Just another Bear behind... another Bear behind... repeat. Nice Car, I'm glad your Grandson is helping out. Tom

Rubber Mallet - Once all Bolts removed. Shingle Flat Bar. You will probably beat a few Mallets into oblivion along the way. Add a can of WD-40 use it all. 2- Hours of wrestling I removed my Right Inner Fenders First - or else everything doesn't clear the Bolts. Not a job for the faint of heart. Good Luck. Tom

Here is a tip - I have Fluid Drive. I bought a Rhode Island Tranny Harness first. Installed it and got to see what was separate in the engine compartment or Lights componets were etc. Then for the engine compartment while working my way from the Dash through to the engine compartment I wired the "harness" myself with the correct gauge and color wires. I went one wire at a time labeling using the old harness on a bench. Rhode Island will help you with any questions over the phone as to Gauge and Colors - buy wire a little long. Label every end clearly with tape. One trick to use is let all your wires "run wild"/ that is to say -long - moving up to the headlight junction blocks etc. The reason for this is simple when you tape the harness in place along the inner fender some wires want to go long to their destination. At that point then cut them to the exact length they need and solder an end on them and attach them in place. In this way it looks more professional/original without wires looping around untidy etc. Everything looks sorted out and original then instead of tussled with. Most of my under the dash wires looked good so I only did the clock, heater, and directional wires there. then I felt the wiring was substantially replaced, enough to be satisfied. One other thing when ordering from Rhode Island you can get the go to the headlight end plugs correct if you buy that segment of wiring from them as well. In other words you can "tackle" segments of your wiring at your own schedule - not a tear it all out and feel like you have to re-wire it all at once deal. Pulling dashboards etc wasn't necessary in my case, because my car was in real good shape when I bought it. I just brought it up to the next level and made it more reliable and safe using my method. To each his own you make the call. Tom

Don, I didn't see one person offer to come help you finish wiring your Blue Plymouth so you could keep it. I am not retired yet or I would offer. I live in NC but if I had more than two weeks vacation I would come help you. I am 59 and my son graduates from the Marine Core next week so I get 1 week off next week. Then a week in July to the NC Beach with my wife and daughter. I wish the guys on this forum would try to offer you some help instead of wishes for your future without your Plymouth. I guess the inevitable is that we all must part with our Mopar's sooner or later. Dammit I wish I could help. Tom

Dave72dt, Please read your Service Manual. The Section is right after Minor Tune Ups, Head Bolts go loose over time. In the old days we just used grease for head gasket sealer. You do what you want to do, but 43 years of experience has shown me otherwise, Blue on a Head Gasket isn't a reason to pitch your Manual in the garbage can. Head Gaskets and their sealers have nothing to do with Head Bolts needing a re-Torque. I referenced the page and Item number for you. Or you can just assume. See definition for assume above. L.O.L. Don't go getting sensitive on me now. It hurts not a thing to check your Head Bolts every 10,000 miles or so. Aluminum Heads - Cold. Cast Iron Heads - Warm. I can read. I feel like Charlotte the pig in the Movie Charlotte's Web. I can talk. Thanks for entertaining me. Tom

I don't know about blue head gaskets, because I always used Copper ones, however, above advice omits what my Service Manual States: 1942-1948 Chrysler C28 - C40 That I found to be true also. Major Tune Ups: Page 110 #2. "Tighten Cylinder Head and Manifold Bolts while Engine is warm. Re-torque the Head Bolts with a Torque Wrench, See Tightening Reference in Service Standards, Section XVI". This Reference instructs the Mechanic to tighten Bolts in correct sequence. I wouldn't just do an engine job, and forget all about the Head Bolts from then on because they can loosen up over time. 43 years of experience has taught me that. I put Rings in my 1948 Chrysler Royal's 250.6 at Christmas 2015. I had to torque (cold) re-torque warm over a two week period twice. On the third try weeks later I saw that they were holding torque. Things aren't always what they seem sometimes. A cold garage while rebuilding etc., etc. Never assume anything with these old engines. You know the true definition of the word assume (It will make an ass out of u and me. Tom

Damned Revenuer's Send them down here to North Carolina - we can deal with them. L.O.L.

Rich, Thank you! I only paid $15 for the C-611 Wrench, I didn't exactly break the bank. I have watched for this wrench on ebay for a couple of years. It always hovered around $30, finally a guy in PA offered one at my price. S&H was another $6, so $21 brings it to my home this Thursday. If I had known the size (My Parts Catalog did not state the Part size) I still see the Camber Wrenches (different sizes) at around $30 each so I figured I had beat the price and now was the time to buy. Thanks again! Tom

Thanks for the Great Advice! I knew the floor needed to be Level. I also just found a Magnetic Camber Gauge on Ebay $39. I'll probably go with that one. The satisfaction of doing it all by yourself still grips me because I'm only 59 years young. I can picture in a few years I will just want to go to the Tire Shop and watch TV and drink Coffee while they do all the work. Not yet though. Ebay still has a few deals left - not many though - not like say 5-10 years ago. Tom

Gents, I just bought the famous C-611 Camber Wrench on ebay. My question is, isn't there a inexpensive way to check your Camber Angle other than buying a say $158 - $228 unit on ebay? I mean one could actually go to a Good Year and pay less to have them check it ($89). The reason I ask is I watched a You -Tube Video and this one guy claimed a Line Level and a couple of Magnets (Say $7 worth) is all you need to check Camber. I built a little Toe-in Toe-out gauge out of straight 1x4 wood, and that setting is correct on my 1948 Chrysler but I want check the Camber and a tool (preferably home made) to do it with. Otherwise, for the money - I guess just take her to Good Year and let them check it - and pay the $89. I own 5 cars so a $189 tool might be a good investment (I have the 5 service manuals for each car). Tires seem to be wearing well on all cars. What says the Forum - buy the Gauge or make a Gauge? Tom

Don, I have been and will be praying for your full recovery. Tom Skinner

Holy Moly Frank you are one lucky dude. Get thee to a tire store A.S.A.P. Tom

If you determine that they are bad, Kanters in Booton N.J. has them. Probably Andy Bernbaum's also.

Bad U Joints? Clutch Judder?

James, Point well taken. Well I said I would get back, so here I am. I changed out my Axle Seals - all leaking. The Brake Shoes were OK - Caught it in time. The Axle Blow over Safety had leaked down from the three way tee (Axle Oil) The Bearing were all still fine. When I cleaned up the mess and re-installed the Seals I torqued everything correctly Hub Assembly Bolts 45FT/LBS (Castle Nuts to 150FT/LBS) Bled the Breaks and off I went for a ride. Everything quiet and tidy. When I filled the Pumpkin this time I let it run out the fill hole, then pumped 5-10 Ounces back out. My theory, and its just a theory is the Modern 90WT Hypoid Oil overheats and expands and blows out the the safety at the top of the axle and the seals, so I gave the oil a little room to expand instead of blowing out oil seals. No more problem with cotter pins either I got the right pins at Carquest (Thanks Jim 10 cents each) and no more noises coming from the rear end because of loose Castle Nuts. Whew 2- days work - 90% Cleaning Parts. The Blow Over coated everything from the Axle Back. Thanks for all the useful information everyone. Tom Huntersville, NC PS I checked for leaks after a 20 mile ride - everything is in order - no leaks or problems.

Put a Heat Shield on. Put a few Wood Clothes Pins on the Fuel Line going to the Carburator. Prestodigitorium - Vapor Lock Gone. I live in NC - Hot. No Problems with the above - even when 95 Degrees. Oh and buy Ethanol Free Gas - Not the Un-Leaded regular

No cap at the rear wheels. I am positive it walked while on that back right wheel as that's where that noise seemed to come from on slow turns back into my neighborhood streets coming in from riding her once a week. I guess I should say I only typically drive about 15 miles a week, unless there's a car show that takes me 40 or so miles up the road. So in total I probably only drove about 7,000 miles with the rear axle castle nuts at about 10 LBS tightness, however, and until I pull the Axles next weekend there seems to have been no damage whatsoever to the Differential Gears, Spindles, or Keyways. I am just going to hope the Bearings aren't monked up, if so I will also replace them as well. Then I will require some help pressing them off and pressing new ones back on. Tom

The Scratches are not severe so I go along with the hubcap walking some. I don't know what else it could have been? Maybe the End of the Long Cotter Pin leaned against the Cap enough to make it walk???