Tom Skinner

Another way to test a condensor: Bump points block to low side of Dizzy Cam (Points Closed) leave key/Ignition on. Take a finger and pull points open and shut - you should see a Blue spark at point Contacts if Condensor is good. Tom

Don, Good one! L.O.L.

Rah! It was faulty electrical! I'm glad it works!

Bump Points around to Rubbing Block to low spot on cam. Leave ignition on. Now pull points opened and closed with your finger. Are you getting a blue spark at the points? If not your condenser is bad - new or not.

Dodgeb4ya and Knuckleharley are probably right. Replace those old wires and away your troubles shall be.

Wow, Have fun! What a Cake! Tom

Buy Un-ethanol gas. It costs more but doesn't boil. You also get beter gas mileage. Google the stations nearest you. You will be glad you did. Mine doesn't boil over after a hot ride - usually in the 90's here all summer - no more boil overs. Tom

I believe I read somewhere that Whitewall Tires weren't offered until the late 1940's. Maybe a Blackwall Radial would be your best "authentic" pick? Although I have seen Tire Ads supposedly in the 1930's showing colored widewalls (green, blue, red etc). Can anyone elaborate or enlighten us on this subject? Tom

I would like to see this picture in color. I'll bet it would look terrific using the period correct colors!

I thought the petcocks for these Radiators were Bib shaped? I have an extra (Solid Brass) L Shaped one. I am not trying to sell it. E-mail/message me if you like, (Your Address). I bought a it off ebay a while back, I will ship to you if you provide me your address. Bingster only. The one in the picture is a Vintage Power Wagon replacement bib (straight style). The replacements work well but piss coolant straight out - not down into a pail. Plus you can attach a hose to it to aim it into a pail, now that's pissing I tell you. L.O.L. Tom

Wow, I know one thing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Drive it until it needs the work, then determine just what needs fixing and fix it. No one needs to part with thousands of dollars for these old buses. They run run on and on, just like the Energizer Bunny.

Gents, I know I'm probably going to get bashed for this, but here goes... Richard is primarily a GM guy. I subscribe to Classic Car, for years. Great Magazine. But carefully read Richard's Articles. Where are the Mopar's? They even feature a Rambler in their Current Issue of Classic Cars (the last one to come to my doorstep). Other than that Rambler, I haven't read anything other than GM, Caddy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Chevy, or Lincoln's/ Ford talk out of Richard for years. I will email him as well for Chris and Jerry's behalf, but I'm almost certain it will yield nada. Their last two Mopar features were September 2011 (Rare 60's Imperial Crowns you must own), and September 2015 (Mrs. Chrysler's Chrysler) Face it, just like the car shows here in the South, it's Chevy and Ford Day. I have had 1948 Chrysler Royals all the way back to 1973, and you just don't find people too interested in them. In fact their values keep going lower. Last April 2015 my '48 was the oldest Chrysler/Desoto/Plymouth at the Lowe's Show (Charlotte Motor Speedway) and maybe 4 or 5 people stopped by to really look at it (out of about maybe 30 - 60 thousand present) at the show. That was the show that featured Dodge as the "Pavilion" showcase. Only 2 other Dodge's were older than mine. In fact the few that stopped to look at my car were over 60 years of age. Oh well there it is. Start the bashing, "You shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free". Look - Like what you want - don't let others determine your taste, however, Mopars are akin to collecting Large Cents, instead of Silver Dollars, very few people seek them out at shows as well. Unless maybe your in Michigan, Pennsylvania, or a W.P.C. Meet. Its OK I'm not sensitive .... bash away. L.O.L. I too wish Classic Car would feature more of our stuff. Tom

Take out the Cotter Pins, Loosen the Castle Nuts some. Take her for a roundabout ride. When you hear the POPs park and remove the drums.

I am still all original 6 Volt, Points, Condenser, Cap, and Rotor. I have contemplated changing over but haven't taken the leap. I made a T.D.C. Gauge also so finding Static Timing after a Points Change is a piece of cake. I wonder if the Pertronix is as good as everyone claims - that is to say (not having to tweak the Points and Timing) every so often to achieve maximum performance from our old sixes. My TDC Gauge. It goes in at No. 6 Cylinder.

The two range 1-2 and 3-4 Hydraulic Transmission or m6 with Fluid Coupler is most of the Chrashler 1946-1949 situations.

Thank you Donald Smith, that was what I thought, and wanted to share with others.

Well that was a big help. Not a simple yes or no? I guess I'm not supposed to ask questions when it comes to plymouthy adams. I believe from memory, there was a mention of a resistor being needed to accommodate the Fluid drive, but I thought I would ask. So plymouthy, how about letting others answer if you don't know or ain't willing to share information with others. I'll bet I'm not the only one wondering about this.

Question? Will this set up work with a Fluid Drive Tansmission? Will the Tranny Selenoid still "interupt" the Tranny to upshift, or downshift? Tom

Captain Neon and Meadowbrook, I run my cars year round. I don't store them with Stabil. I know for a fact all my vehicles all (5) run better without ethanol gas filler. So stick up for crappy gas if you want to, but I know better. The Government can sell that crap to you. I'm not buying. Love you mean it! Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Try buying non ethanol gas. My percolation problem went away completely when a QT opened near my house and I buy Ethanol Free Gas there. Who know what the Oil Companies are really putting in our Fuel (I mean the 10%) they are not telling us about. Probably some toxic waste. L.O.L.

Don, Nice. That reminds me, my Grandpa used to say: The Bear went over the Mountain... The Bear went over the Mountain... The bear went over the Mountain just to see what he could find.... Just another Bear behind... another Bear behind... repeat. Nice Car, I'm glad your Grandson is helping out. Tom

Rubber Mallet - Once all Bolts removed. Shingle Flat Bar. You will probably beat a few Mallets into oblivion along the way. Add a can of WD-40 use it all. 2- Hours of wrestling I removed my Right Inner Fenders First - or else everything doesn't clear the Bolts. Not a job for the faint of heart. Good Luck. Tom

Here is a tip - I have Fluid Drive. I bought a Rhode Island Tranny Harness first. Installed it and got to see what was separate in the engine compartment or Lights componets were etc. Then for the engine compartment while working my way from the Dash through to the engine compartment I wired the "harness" myself with the correct gauge and color wires. I went one wire at a time labeling using the old harness on a bench. Rhode Island will help you with any questions over the phone as to Gauge and Colors - buy wire a little long. Label every end clearly with tape. One trick to use is let all your wires "run wild"/ that is to say -long - moving up to the headlight junction blocks etc. The reason for this is simple when you tape the harness in place along the inner fender some wires want to go long to their destination. At that point then cut them to the exact length they need and solder an end on them and attach them in place. In this way it looks more professional/original without wires looping around untidy etc. Everything looks sorted out and original then instead of tussled with. Most of my under the dash wires looked good so I only did the clock, heater, and directional wires there. then I felt the wiring was substantially replaced, enough to be satisfied. One other thing when ordering from Rhode Island you can get the go to the headlight end plugs correct if you buy that segment of wiring from them as well. In other words you can "tackle" segments of your wiring at your own schedule - not a tear it all out and feel like you have to re-wire it all at once deal. Pulling dashboards etc wasn't necessary in my case, because my car was in real good shape when I bought it. I just brought it up to the next level and made it more reliable and safe using my method. To each his own you make the call. Tom

Don, I didn't see one person offer to come help you finish wiring your Blue Plymouth so you could keep it. I am not retired yet or I would offer. I live in NC but if I had more than two weeks vacation I would come help you. I am 59 and my son graduates from the Marine Core next week so I get 1 week off next week. Then a week in July to the NC Beach with my wife and daughter. I wish the guys on this forum would try to offer you some help instead of wishes for your future without your Plymouth. I guess the inevitable is that we all must part with our Mopar's sooner or later. Dammit I wish I could help. Tom

Dave72dt, Please read your Service Manual. The Section is right after Minor Tune Ups, Head Bolts go loose over time. In the old days we just used grease for head gasket sealer. You do what you want to do, but 43 years of experience has shown me otherwise, Blue on a Head Gasket isn't a reason to pitch your Manual in the garbage can. Head Gaskets and their sealers have nothing to do with Head Bolts needing a re-Torque. I referenced the page and Item number for you. Or you can just assume. See definition for assume above. L.O.L. Don't go getting sensitive on me now. It hurts not a thing to check your Head Bolts every 10,000 miles or so. Aluminum Heads - Cold. Cast Iron Heads - Warm. I can read. I feel like Charlotte the pig in the Movie Charlotte's Web. I can talk. Thanks for entertaining me. Tom