Tom Skinner

The Scratches are not severe so I go along with the hubcap walking some. I don't know what else it could have been? Maybe the End of the Long Cotter Pin leaned against the Cap enough to make it walk???

Don, Will do, sometimes I just don't think! Tom

Drained Pumpkin. No Damage. Key Ways and Spindles fine. No Metal shavings in Grease at bottom of Vessel. Torqued the Castles back to 150 L.B.S. . By the way when a Floor Jack is Lifting the Pumpkin - Both Rear Wheels off the ground then spin one or other wheel the Cotter pin Spins with the Axle - That is how the Long Cotter Pin - Twisted Ends Scratched a Circular Pattern into the back of that Hubcap. Shook back Wheels seems like there was no damage whatsoever. No play where wheel beraings seem concerned. I will pull Axles next week and look closely at the Wheel Bearings, and report back. Looks like I dodged a bullet - Abbott

I had the Hubcap on the Front as well. My Cotter Pins are too long. The Hub Caps are the shallow newer replacement type. I have the originals in a box in the garage. The Car has rode fine for 7 years with the Rear Axle Nuts at Snug, but I am wondering now could that have caused some internal gear damage in the pumpkin? I guess I'll know when I drain the pumpkin, and see the bottom of the pan.

Hey - Abbott - Iv'e been a bad boy - Abbott. (Abbott and Costello) Shoot now I know why them seals leak - for starters I bumped the Inner Seals in with a tiny block of wood - not neat - little dents etc. Second, I didn't replace the outer seals coming back out. Third I only snugged the rear axle castle nuts like one would on the front spindles. Thank you all for the Great advice! I did hear a kooky scratching noise from time to time turning corners slowly. I figured that out though by looking at the back of the hubcap weird circle of scratches at the back of the center of the cap came from the cotter pin rubbing a circular scratch pattern on that right rear wheel hubcap - mystery solved. I'm gonna fix that too by installing the cotter pin correctly - sideways. I bet I get it right this time. I looked at Page 311 again, 142 LBS Thanks again! Tom

I noticed a Drop or two of something coming out at the bottom of my right rear Wheel. I got under there and determined it was rear axle grease - not brake fluid. I got my puller out and pulled the right rear wheel drum - my observation was correct. My outer seal leaked a drop or so. Seven years ago I replaced my inner rear axle seals. I re-installed the same old outer's so now a small leak. I called and ordered new outer seals, and was told if the outer's are leaking the inner's are also. I am OK with that and ordered 2 Inner and 2 outer seals which I will install next week when they get here. My question is: how tight to tighten the rear castle nuts on the rear axles. I had snugged them down 1-2 LBS or so and stuck a new cotter pin in 7 years ago, and when I used the puller to remove the drum - no pop like last time. I referenced my Torque Spec on Page 311 in my Manual and couldn't determine if there was a Torque setting. I know you just snug the front Castle Nuts on the front axle, and back off a Castle Nut wedge and install the cotter pins on the front Axles. Am I right to assume this is also true on the rear axle castle nuts also? Tom Huntersville, North Carolina.

Plymouth 48, Go for it! God Bless you for your efforts. Tom Huntersville, North Carolina

I got a Sleeve at NAPA in Huntersville, North Carolina. I am pretty sure Carquest has them as well. Its a pretty standard Sleeve. Ask an Older Parts Guy that knows how to use an Old Parts Catalog. The younger guys just rely on the computers and if they can't find something in 2 seconds flat - then it doesn't exist in their minds. They will then tell you they don't have it or it isn't around anymore. I know a couple (over 60) parts guys that can find anything with a caliper and over 40 years experience they find what you need. They use computers too but know how to scramble and find the part better than the newbies. Tom

If your Excell Pump is Leather wrapped it might have shrunk, remove it and soak it in 3 in one oil and re-install?

Labrauer, I don't know how to add pictures but if you can save this in pictures maybe you can read it

I was born po, and when I got out of rehab I had some duct tape I didn't know what to do wif Tom, Huntersville, North Carolina

You Livin Da Dream. Muy Bueno!

Grusse dich!

Plymouth 48, Your fine, just relax and take it from here. Life is about the journey, not the destination. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Try googling DVAP (Desert Vally Auto Parts) Arizona I believe.

Have you determined your electrical problem yet?

Dennis Bickford has replacements: Headlight Junction Boxs (Replicas - Like the Originals) Vintage Woodworks PO BOX 1132 LaLuz, NM. 88337 Phone (575) 443-1160 Dennis is a very honest honorable Gentleman, he ships you your stuff first then you pay -- his business is built upon trustworthy people. He is first and foremost the best there is. Dennis has been around for decades and is an absolute credit to this hobby. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Correct. It is either electrical, or tranny internal. My guess is electrical issue, if sitting that long, lots of dirty connections, not making ground, bad wiring, etc.

J. Harring, Check and Clean the Governor's points on the Tranny. Also check to see if the RPM's are below 500rpm's at Idle. The tranny will not upshift if Idling too high. There is a special section in your Service Manual on just this problem with a checklist to pin it down. If pump doesn't reach 30-40psi in tranny it won't upshift. Try checking the fuse on your tranny relay switch, is it good? Not burnt? All ground connections as well. Look - in plain speak - this is a mechanic's car - not real reliable - until you become a reliable mechanic. (By the way if you open your Fluid Drive Unit Fill Bolt and it's full - do not mess with it - close it back up and proceed to your manual - see above) Good Luck! I too have owned several 1948 Chrysler Royals with Fluid Drive - a lifetime of research - fun - and work. Happy Easter. Tom

JSabah, Don is right. James is Right. Pull/Drop the Tranny off of the Bell Housing. Then pull the engine, You will bang everything up otherwise. Tom

Labrauer, Yes. Its kind of a Rubber O-Ring 1/4" Thick (Plumbing section of Lowe's has them). I forget the exact Diameter. Micrometer your base of your Distributor where it seats and go buy an O-Ring. They are only a buck or so. Tom