Merle Coggins

Thoughts on the replacement of the worm on the shaft, based on experience with other press fit items. I have no experience with this exact type of job. To get the old worm gear off you'd need to heat the gear quickly without getting too much heat into the shaft. Then it should come off rather easily. For reassembly, heat up the new piece in oil to around 300 degrees and freeze the shaft. When ready slide the frozen shaft into the hot gear. You'll have to work quickly and you'll have one shot to get it on or you'll have to press it.

Maybe your legs are longer than I remember, Paul. But that seat seems to sit a bit far back.

That seems a bit over complicated. If you’re worried about return flow causing aeration why not just run the return back into the suction line.

I'm thinking 3:45 may be better...

One end connects to a cross member. A piece of "C" channel bolted to the frame rails. The other end connects to the frame at the rear left side.

You have a ‘48 Plymouth with a 327? As in small block Chevy V8 engine? If so then I can’t offer much help without knowing what modifications have been done already on that car.

You all have fun today. Wish I could be there.

As Jan says, the oil pressure is good, but if the relief valve is stuck closed the return flow from the filter is blocked. Hence no flow through the filter. Can you freely blow air through the Outlet line back into the crankcase, with the engine running at 45psi oil pressure? (You'd have to block the outlet port of the filter) Or rig up a rubber hose from the outlet port and route it into the filler pipe. If oil flows out of the filter outlet test hose with the engine running you have verified that the filter is good, but the return is blocked through the relief valve. You could probably do both tests at the same time. Rig up the second return hose, and while running the engine to check for flow through the filter you could test the flow through the return line through the relief valve.

If you want to remove the engine and leave the bell housing in the chassis you will need to remove the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Parts of the bell housing go between the flywheel and the block.

So, RAD would be more of an Accessory connector, as the radio can usually be powered with the key turned counter clockwise. Then GA, or gauge terminal, would also power up the coil in the clockwise position only?

If the coolant temp in the bottom of the radiator is 200+ you have other problems...

AM = Ammeter, which would have been battery power in. Your Red Ignition Power wire (Batt.) would go there. GA = Gauges, which is your accessory power for the gauges and etc. Whichever wires would go to the Acc. terminal would go to GA. RAD = I'm not sure what that stands for. They usually say COIL. But I believe that would be your coil wire (Pink?), and would be the same as the Ign. on the new switch. The St. that says to go to the Neutral Safety Switch would go to your Start Button. The other side of the Start Button would need to be wired to AM, or RAD, to give it power.

Good catch Jocko. Yes, your lines are backwards in that photo, and yes, that is the ideal filter element for that canister. A Wix 51011, or Napa 1011 is also supposed to fit, but they seem to be a bit too fat and are a VERY tight fit. The Baldwins fit perfectly, in my experience. Also, when you make up new lines, route the return line down to the fitting in a direct line, if possible. Avoid the loop that you have in there now. Tighten that fitting another 90 degrees, or so, so that the threaded port is facing upwards... However, when I look at a picture of mine I see that mine isn't perfect either, but it does maintain a downward run.

I've seen videos of that game, but never played it. Any weight shift at that low speed is very detrimental to the MC's balance.

I’ve done slow races on my motorcycle, but I can’t say I’ve ever seen it with trucks.

Any vacuum lines that didn't get connected, such as vacuum wipers, or vac advance? Could the fuel line to the pump be loose, or cracked from working with it? Did you have the engine on it's side, or upside down during the rear main seal project? Maybe some debris in the carb dislodged and is now plugging a jet?

Nice work. And I see you are a Gold Wing rider too. I see a GL1500 hiding behind the car...

I like the exhaust pipe expander idea. It shouldn't take much to make it a tight fit again. Here's another shot showing the upper clamp.

I don't believe any body panels are compatible between a C-1 ('54) and B-2 ('50) series trucks.

First of all... You said that the rotor is pointing at 7 o'clock, but which plug wire is connected at that point? Your distributor may be 180 off and the plug wires are connected to match it. Second... There appears to be a mistake in the instructions. For Step A it should include #2 Intake and #5 Exhaust (not both), and for Step B it should include #2 Exhaust (not both) and #5 Intake. The only cylinder that you would set both valves on would be the one in firing position, eg. #1 or #6

Yes, practice your double clutching. Kencombs lists the technique for down shifting, by reving up the engine between shifts. When upshifting you need to let the engine rpm come down to match the next gear. It’ll take a little practice, but you’ll get the hang of it. Eventually you’ll get to where you can upshift without the clutch. Just manipulate the throttle to break the torque on the gears and shift to neutral, let the engine speed come down until it slips into the next gear, get back on the gas...

If you’re talking about the pinion nut 180 inch lbs would be pretty light torque. 180 ft lbs sound better.

Look up the OEM part numbers and have them cross reference the numbers. You can even use the napaonline web site to do it yourself. In their search bar at the top of the page type in the OEM part number and then select Cross Reference in the search category. See what comes up.

You don't have good parts supply stores there? Most seals can be cross referenced to modern numbers readily available from local vendors. I got mine from Napa.

That looks awesome!!! Love it.?