Jump to content

Merle Coggins

Members
  • Posts

    9,390
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    87

Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Mine is a 4 speed with Fluid Drive, but all B2, B3 and B4 trucks use the same parking brake system. The drum, band, and linkage may differ slightly between years and transmission models, but the overall system design is the same.
  2. Here's a good look at the inside of a honeycomb radiator, and how they're made.
  3. Quite true. It could possibly be hot tanked and flushed, but if it hasn't caused any issues I'd flush it myself and preserve it's integrity.
  4. Yes, B1's have the park brake lever coming up through the floor. For the B2's, they switched to the under-dash pull handle. The cable attaches just outside the firewall and loops down past the manifolds, is clamped to the frame along side the engine, and connects through the flywheel pan to the park brake linkage. Here are a few pics of mine. You're B3D should be similar.
  5. I plan to get in Thursday early afternoon so I can get checked in for the event and at the hotel. Bummer...
  6. Yes, the Ol' Dodge will be there. And I always have a small took kit under the seat, just in case. That's just the mechanic in me. Can't go anywhere without tools... Where will you be staying?
  7. I’ll be there again this year.
  8. Nice Power Wagon. Civilian Power Wagons began in ‘45, and that body style ran into the mid ‘50’s. MIlitary versions, VC’s and WC’s, started in ‘40 or ‘41.
  9. That’s not a FD bell housing. It appears to be a standard clutch model. The FD bell housing is longer and has the pedals mounted on a separate shaft with an extra linkage going back to the clutch shaft. The standard clutch has the brake pedal on the clutch shaft.
  10. RA, GA, and AM is on the ignition switch. RA = Radio, GA = Gauges (and coil), and AM = Ammeter (voltage input)
  11. I recall struggling to get mine to fit nicely, and they still don't seal up very well.
  12. This place isn’t big enough for me either, but it’s what we have for now. We’re starting to look for a bit more room.
  13. I don’t believe it needs to be. I believe it was more sealing against dust intrusion.
  14. Good catch and fix. Now just replace that wire nut with a proper connector and all will be good. Wire nuts have no place in vehicle electrical systems.
  15. YIKES!! We bought our home a few years ago for $109,000. 1310 sq. ft., 1.5 story, 3BR, 1.5 BA, on 6900 sq. ft. lot. Your property prices out there are crazy compared to what I'm used to around here. Looks like we'd have to add another '0' to the price out there.
  16. The pipe plug that angles up, just behind the PTO cover, is the fill/level plug
  17. I always connect heater cores with the inlet at the bottom so that any air is naturally purged up and out with the return line.
  18. Not the reason... Can’t make a yard stick any shorter either...
  19. Does your truck have Fluid Drive? I have that on my truck's carb too, and my truck has FD. I have mine screwed in so that it isn't functioning. I didn't like the slow return to idle. So far it hasn't caused an issue with stalling.
  20. That’s a B3 dash. So it looks like you have a ‘51 or ‘52 with ‘48-‘50 doors. Or at least the the passenger side door... It also appears to be a 1/2 ton based on the space between the cab and fenders. That would make it a B3B.
  21. When in doubt seal all bolt threads for the head, manifolds, and front cover. May of them go into the coolant jacket. Also, what kind of plug is that? It almost looks like a cup type installed backwards. It should be a disc type, use with some sealant around the edge and flattened down well to seat it. I don’t seem much of a dimple in it to show that it’s seated properly.
  22. Did you get him fixed and running for the weekend fun run?
  23. That thing doesn't even skip a beat when they drop all 8 moldboards into the ground. It does bog down a bit later, maybe some stiffer soil there, but a gear change seemed to do the trick. I've always liked this video of a big Case steam tractor at a tractor pull. He's really pouring the coals to it... I now better understand the need for a canopy over the operator's station.
  24. Not the end cap. I believe he is referring to the fill cap on top of the reservoir. There is a small vent hole in the plug/cap to allow air in and out as fluid level changes.
  25. Before you pull the horn wire out of the steering shaft, attach a string to it. Once you have the wire out, and the string in its place, attach the string to the top if the tube with some sort of stick-um that will hold the string but can be removed without too much difficulty later. You'll be glad you have that string to fish the wire back down the tube. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it fully. Back it off until it's pretty much flush with the end of the shaft. This will help support the tube, and protect the threads, when pressing against it to remove the wheel. Once the wheel pops loose you can then remove the nut and the wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use