Merle Coggins
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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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I don’t believe it needs to be. I believe it was more sealing against dust intrusion.
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Good catch and fix. Now just replace that wire nut with a proper connector and all will be good. Wire nuts have no place in vehicle electrical systems.
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YIKES!! We bought our home a few years ago for $109,000. 1310 sq. ft., 1.5 story, 3BR, 1.5 BA, on 6900 sq. ft. lot. Your property prices out there are crazy compared to what I'm used to around here. Looks like we'd have to add another '0' to the price out there.
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- welding
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The pipe plug that angles up, just behind the PTO cover, is the fill/level plug -
I always connect heater cores with the inlet at the bottom so that any air is naturally purged up and out with the return line.
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Interesting photos I have run across.
Merle Coggins replied to Don Coatney's topic in Off Topic (OT)
Not the reason... Can’t make a yard stick any shorter either... -
1951 fargo dashpot carburetor?
Merle Coggins replied to 1951fargo's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Does your truck have Fluid Drive? I have that on my truck's carb too, and my truck has FD. I have mine screwed in so that it isn't functioning. I didn't like the slow return to idle. So far it hasn't caused an issue with stalling. -
That’s a B3 dash. So it looks like you have a ‘51 or ‘52 with ‘48-‘50 doors. Or at least the the passenger side door... It also appears to be a 1/2 ton based on the space between the cab and fenders. That would make it a B3B.
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When in doubt seal all bolt threads for the head, manifolds, and front cover. May of them go into the coolant jacket. Also, what kind of plug is that? It almost looks like a cup type installed backwards. It should be a disc type, use with some sealant around the edge and flattened down well to seat it. I don’t seem much of a dimple in it to show that it’s seated properly.
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- welch plugs
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Did you get him fixed and running for the weekend fun run?
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That thing doesn't even skip a beat when they drop all 8 moldboards into the ground. It does bog down a bit later, maybe some stiffer soil there, but a gear change seemed to do the trick. I've always liked this video of a big Case steam tractor at a tractor pull. He's really pouring the coals to it... I now better understand the need for a canopy over the operator's station.
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Not the end cap. I believe he is referring to the fill cap on top of the reservoir. There is a small vent hole in the plug/cap to allow air in and out as fluid level changes.
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Before you pull the horn wire out of the steering shaft, attach a string to it. Once you have the wire out, and the string in its place, attach the string to the top if the tube with some sort of stick-um that will hold the string but can be removed without too much difficulty later. You'll be glad you have that string to fish the wire back down the tube. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it fully. Back it off until it's pretty much flush with the end of the shaft. This will help support the tube, and protect the threads, when pressing against it to remove the wheel. Once the wheel pops loose you can then remove the nut and the wheel.
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LOL... More like a cat door for Mark. ?
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I suspect that your throw out bearing is rubbing on the clutch fingers when released. There should be a spring that pulls it away from the fingers when not depressing the pedal. If it doesn't do that then it can rub and chatter against the clutch fingers as it spins. This can also apply to Greg51T&CWagon. If you adjusted out too much free play the throw out bearing may now be contacting the clutch fingers when it shouldn't be.
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That may be normal. I don't believe mine sits dead on 0 either. Did you try jumping the Batt to Arm to see if would charge, like we discussed?
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Paint the overhead door another shade of green to complete the collage... ?
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52 b3d "Little Blue Truck"
Merle Coggins replied to jpartington's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
The 4 speed trans was an option for your truck, but fairly common on the 1 ton's from what I've seen. However, by '52 I thought they had switched over the the synchronized 4 speed. I know I have a synchro 4 speed out of a B-3-C, but can't use it in my truck unless I can find a Fluid Drive input shaft for it. -
Not the same green. What's up with that?
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1957 D-100 temp gauge/sensor
Merle Coggins replied to bluebanshee's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Should be at the driver's side, rear, corner of the head. Just behind your oil filter. -
Ah yes, the old Converter Engines. They convert air and fuel into noise... They certainly have a unique sound, especially the 6V53’s. Interesting note on the 2 stroke Detroits, since the blower is a necessary part of the air intake system, as noted earlier, they are considered ‘naturally aspirated’ even with the blower (supercharger). The higher HP versions added turbos to boost the intake charge a bit more. The turbo feeds charge air into the blower intake.
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That's just a simple box wrench. A slug wrench would have a block on the end for slugging with a BFH. We've got some big-uns 'round here for dismantling rock crushers. But I do like your repurposed use for it.
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Ahh... The elusive left handed monkey wrench... ?
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A flat black B3B about 30 seconds in too.
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We are planning to attend again this year. Thinking about spending the weekend before up in the U.P. of Michigan, with a possible visit to Mackinac Island. Notice that they have the car show planned for Thursday, with awards banquet as a brunch on Friday, so that everyone is free to participate in the Cruise Friday afternoon and Saturday. They are also working on securing a parking area along the route for club members to park and watch or cruise. We'll probably leave Saturday afternoon and head to Ludington, to catch the SS Badger car ferry back across Lake Michigan on Sunday morning.
