Merle Coggins

Even has a "Lifetime Guarantee" ...

How many times did they repeat, "It just doesn't stick!" ? If it's the same commercial, that one drives me nuts... ?

My wife has recently made the switch to cast iron pans and loves them. They are awesome once seasoned properly. I also like cast iron Dutch Ovens for camp cooking.

The axle shafts are held in place by the brake backing plates. It sounds like you already have the brakes disassembled, so now just remove the backing plates too. You'll need to rig up a puller or slide hammer to pull the axle shafts out. The bearing cup is a tight fit into the housing. I've made spacers to go between the axle housing flange and the inside of the brake drum and use the axle nut to pull the axles out. You may need a few different length spacers to get the job done. I've also heard of putting the drum and nut on loose and using the drum as a slide hammer of sorts. Once the axle shafts are out you can replace the outer seals, and you can also pull the diff now (if needed). Gasket Maker is good for the diff mount surface. I prefer the Permetex Anaerobic Gasket Makers/Flange Sealers for that application

I'm curious... Here he stated Ironwood, which is next door to Hurley, WI. On FB he mentioned Hancock. There is a fair bit of separation between the two. (110 miles)

There you go... And take those Echlin numbers Rich provided to your local Napa store to get the wires. Echlin is a Napa brand.

Lawn and Garden centers are another good source of #00 grease. Many mowers use #00 grease in their gearboxes.

Ironwood, MI is about 225 miles north of me. (3-1/2 to 4 hour drive) I don't know of any other active members that are any closer. @Mikec4193 Are you on the Facebook Pilot-House group? I believe there are some members on there that are up in northern Wisconsin. Eagle River, or Ashland area. They would be a little closer to go have a look for you, if they would be willing.

What’s your distributor number? Some of the guys here have Autolite catalogs that can get you the correct part number for that wire. With that you can do some more refined searching.

Yes, you are correct Steve. And as DJ stated, be sure that you know the proper connections on your filter housing. Notice on mine that the oil feeds into the bottom center and comes out at the side near the top. Others feed in near the top and drain out the bottom. It all depends on the filter design. Mine is a sock type.

Both #1 and #6 pistons are at TDC as you state. Both tappets loose on #1 indicates that this cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke. This means that #6 is at the top of the exhaust stroke, which puts the valves in an ‘overlap’ condition. The exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is opening. Depending on the valve timing of this particular engine the exhaust valve could have just closed, allowing the tappet to be loose, but the intake valve is probably beginning to open, hence the tight tappet.

Your wire from the coil should be going to that side terminal, where the red wire is now. The distributor body should be grounded through the mount, and the engine block. If you need 2 wires then something else is wrong. Verify that the inside of the distributor is wired properly and remove the red wire completely. Connect the white wire from your coil (-) post to the side terminal on the distributor and see what happens.

Your coil is wired correctly for a Negative ground system. Since you stated your car has been converted to a 12v system I would venture a guess that it was also converted to Negative Ground. The red wire screwed to the body of the distributor was likely added to ensure that the distributor has a good ground, as you state that this wire goes to the Negative post of the battery. That is assuming that the screw mentioned is screwed into the housing and not the screw/stud that is normally connected through an insulator where the coil wire normally connects. Is the original insulated terminal still in the distributor housing? The coil wire should be connected to that, and the inside would have a small wire going to the points.

And the only "Upcoming Event" is Tim's BBQ

If that's the case you have some pretty high exhaust back pressure that needs to be addressed. Maybe its because the heat riser flap is vertical? #1 exhaust valve is the first valve from the front of the block.

Yes, the upper port is in the oil galley. You'll see a couple other plugs along that ridge in the block. One is behind the starter and one just ahead of the distributor that may be feeding your oil pressure gauge. There may also be one behind the generator. the lower plug is the return to sump. This flows through the oil pressure regulator. If the oil pressure is low, and the valve is closed, the return to sump is also closed so that oil pressure isn't lost through the filter system.

If you get the threads clean and dry the Loctite will bond. And once set the oil won't effect it. You may also consider some Loctite primer just prior to application of the Loctite. That will help ensure the brake clean won't interfere with the bond. Also, when in doubt, use red Loctite...

Interesting that the Wisconsin event is the same weekend as the Automotion Car Show in Wisconsin Dells, usually a fairly sizeable event for this area. https://www.wisdells.com/Automotion.htm Wis Dells is about 75 miles north of Johnson Creek, and about 15 miles form their scheduled end point near Baraboo.

The red and black one is Ed's '46 Dodge. The other one is an International. The cabs did change considerably in '48 with the introduction of the B-Series. They got wider for one thing. Then the added rear corner windows (opitonal) for increased visibility.

I don't see a little square. I see a "wink" emoji. ?

I had this same problem the first few years after I got my truck together. It always seemed to rain a lot between uses and every time I'd try to start it up it would crank funny and be very hard to start. I quickly realized that sticky valves was the problem. Once I would finally get it to start it would run rough for several minutes then gradually smooth out. I tried adding MMO to the gas, when I'd remember. I can't say if that really helped or not. I have not experienced that anymore in the past few years, so maybe it had something to do with it. Or things are just wearing in now.

True, a small amount could bypass the radiator via the “bypass” port but it isn’t enough to cause any problems.

You could always use a thermal bypass system. I see these often in hydraulic oil coolers on heavy equipment. It's essentially a simple relief valve that will open and allow oil to bypass the oil cooler when the back pressure through the cooler it too high, for example when oil is cold and thick.

As I watched that I was thinking, "They are idiots for standing so close." And I was right...

How hot is your oil getting? Many larger diesel engines have engine oil coolers built in to the cooling system, but a typical automotive engine shouldn't need it unless you're pushing it to extremes, as in racing. The oil needs to reach a normal operating temperature of 180-190 degrees F for any trapped moisture to be expelled. Otherwise you get what you show in the bottom picture... sludge buildup. If your oil is approaching 200 degrees, or more, then you should consider adding an oil cooler.