Merle Coggins

In order to pull the whole diff assembly you first would need to remove the axle shafts. However, none of that is necessary to replace the pinion shaft seal. Since you already have the driveshaft off, you now need to remove the input flange on the diff. Remove the nut and slide the drive flange off the shaft. You may need to use a puller. You can then use your seal remover of choice to remove the old seal. Install a new seal and reassemble. You may also want to inspect the seal surface on the drive flange. You may need to put a Speedi-Sleeve on it. Upon reassembly you'll need to apply a certain amount of torque on the pinion nut. I don't have that spec handy at the moment. While you're at it, I would also advice that you check/clean the axle breather. If the axle can't breath properly it can build up pressure that will cause seal leakage.

That appears to be what I'd call an 'oil pressure bypass'. Assuming that the fitting on the right that goes into the block skirt is open to the sump? I have to wonder if there was a bypass filter installed at one time and someone removed it, thinking that they needed to connect the inlet and outlet as a filter bypass, not fully understanding how a bypass filter works?

Check the plumbing isle of your local hardware store. You need a male pipe to female inverted flare fitting. They are commonly available in various sizes. Most auto parts store computer jockeys wouldn't know an inverted flare fitting if it hit them in the nose... If they can't find it in their computer, "We don't have it". EDIT: Oops, I read it wrong. I was thinking you needed a fitting for the fuel pump to go from the pipe thread to inverted flare line.

As lonejacklarry said, it was likely sold and first registered in 1953 and so that became the model year on the title. My B2C was built in December of 1950, and must have been purchased in early 1951. The title shows it to be a '51, but I call it a '50 as the B2's are all '50's in my mind.

Give that kid an A+ ?

I remember the old farm truck we had (55 Ford F200) back in the day had a simple hook and eye latch to keep the door closed. Apparently the latch didn't work and it was too troublesome to repair.

I was OK with it until, "we stayed in the bar until...". I would advise against that practice in any weather when traveling on 2 wheels. ?

I see the steering shaft poking out the bottom of the cab, but no apparent connection to the chassis. Could it have been converted to a full hydraulic steering system?

When you go under the vehicle to add oil where is the oiliest, dirtiest, spot on the transmission? The most likely spots for a leak would be the rear output shaft seal, the speedo drive seal, or at the front mounting surface to the bell housing (if the gasket is missing). It could also be leaking out of the selector shafts for shifting.

Or with the clutch pedal depressed?

I used a different descriptive word before 'cold', but It's not to be used in polite society so I won't use it here. ?

You, your wife, and someone else' wife all fit in there? ?? ?

Everyone loves those "catch phrases". They drive me nuts... And why do we need to have names for winter storms now???? I was out driving around through a little snow storm on Monday. Most people were freaking out and hunkering down because "Winter Storm Beth" was sweeping through the state. We got around 8-10" throughout the day and I put on over 500 miles to go visit a customer up north. I didn't think much about it. It's winter in Wisconsin...

The one on the fuel pump is more of a sediment bowl with a screen to collect the bigger pieces. The filter at the carburetor would collect the finer debris to protect the metering jets inside the carb.

Yup... I had -24 this morning when I went out to fire up my pickup. I had to drive down near Madison to visit a customer this morning. As I drove south the temp keep dropping. It was -28 by the time I got there. ? Truck drove like I was dragging a heavy trailer, with it being so cold and stiff, plus a pretty stout cross wind. It was up to -18 on the drive home this afternoon. It was like a heat wave... ?

As I remember, getting it out is harder than putting it back in. Use a dental pick type of tool, or small screwdriver, to get behind it near the end of the clip, then work it out of the groove. Once you get it started, hold your hand over the top of the carb to contain the clip if it comes flying out. When putting it back in you can squeeze it down into the bore, then use a socket or dowel to press it down into the groove. It’s good to get it, and the ball, out so that you can properly clean all of the passages.

1. Disconnect and remove carburetor... set aside. 2. Remove all 13 manifold nuts from the studs. (you may want to drain the coolant first as often times one or more studs will come out of the block and coolant will follow) 3. Remove manifolds as a set 4. Clean all surfaces and install new gaskets onto the studs. 5. Reassemble in reverse order, tightening the nuts from middle - out

If you have a 4 speed then it should have a PTO cover, I believe on the right side. I don’t believe the 3 speeds are PTO ready. Edit: This trans is a later synchro version, but it the earlier 4 speeds would have the cover in front of the fill/level plug.

The B-Series used rubber mounts at all 4 corners, but the left front is missing the lower rubber to make it stiffer. Here is a page from my manual. The pic in the lower left corner does appear to be the same as the springs picture. As noted, that is for the Power Wagons only, which still used the W-Series cab.

I wonder why he has an extension shoved into the carbuerator? And I guess he couldn't find a chromed Mopar alternator...

To add to what Tim and Andy said, you may also want to check to be sure the heads match the block at the front. If the block has the internal thermostat bypass port you will need a head with the bump on the front, with a matching port. If you block does not have the internal bypass port, you could use either head, as long as you have a head gasket to match the head.

The brackets in pic #5, next to the crank pulley nut, I can't identify as anything on a Pilot-House truck that I'm aware of. The springs/bolts in pic #8... My first thought was fuel tank mounting bolts, but there should be a spacer inside the springs and they don't have a cotter pin retainer that I'm aware of. I believe Ed commented about the being cab mount bolts. That very well could be on a W-Series, or Power Wagon, but not for a Pilot-House truck. And the item in pic #9 I also can't identify as anything on a Pilot-House truck. These may very well be spare parts from something else that were tossed into your pile of parts. The comments of pic #1 bushing being for a clutch pedal is interesting, but my first thought was flywheel pilot bushing. I don't believe the pedal bushings would be that thick, and wouldn't be oilite. Pic #2; Horn button parts, but the horn button is the center of a horn ring for a B3 / B4 truck. The B1 and B2 just had a black plastic button that fit inside the steering wheel opening. Pic #3; Spring shackles Pic #4; Cab mount, or rear engine mount. Pic #6; Clutch throw out bearings. Pic #7; Looks like a piston wrist pin (grudgeon pin) retainer clip, as stated earlier.

You need the proper drum/hub puller to get the drums off. They are on a tapered shaft and will be tight.

Mine is in a truck. Different bell housing, different throwout fork, different springs. I’d say you had it lined up by luck. Go buy yourself a lottery ticket... ?

When I bought my house in Waukesha, in 2001, I could get insurance on it, but I had to have the fuse panel replaced with a modern breaker panel within 6 months or they'd drop me. A co-worker's brother was a licensed electrician that did side jobs on the weekends. He pulled the necessary permit and replaced my panel for about 1/2 the cost it would have been through an electrical contractor.