Merle Coggins

Could you grind off/drill out the rivets that hold the drum to the hub? Then you could remove the drum and access the back side of the hub to place a temporary nut for removal. Then install studs as recommended above. Now the drum will slide back over the studs like a more modern vehicle.

So that you can only use the lighter with the lights are on???

Before DCM started offering them I bought a set from MAC's, a Ford parts supplier. They are so similar you couldn't 'tell the difference. However, the inner diameter is slightly smaller. I had to grind down the outer shaft of my crank handles to fit inside the escutcheons. But they work great and look correct.

Got a photo of the front? I was thinking maybe Hudson, but I don't think they had the speed lines on the hood side and fenders.

Your park brake linkage should use a similar cam, as shown at the top of this picture. But on yours the cam is connected to the bottom of the brake lever. On mine the cam connects to another linkage arm. This linkage bolts up to a bolster on the top trans cover. Does your trans have this attachment point? Does your brake lever attach at this similar point? The pull cable attaches to the bottom of this "T" link to pull the brake linkage and set the brake. If so, you can likely fabricate this linkage, or something similar, and connect it to your existing brake band. And I believe someone here found a cable from a modern truck that can be retrofitted to work in place of the original. I don't recall the details of that but I'm sure you could search and find it.

Looking back through this thread I see one photo that shows the park brake handle under the dash. but in other pictures there appears to be a park brake lever coming up through the floor. It's quite possible that someone swapped out the trans to an earlier model and used the park brake arrangement from the earlier version.

Mine is a 4 speed with Fluid Drive, but all B2, B3 and B4 trucks use the same parking brake system. The drum, band, and linkage may differ slightly between years and transmission models, but the overall system design is the same.

Here's a good look at the inside of a honeycomb radiator, and how they're made.

Quite true. It could possibly be hot tanked and flushed, but if it hasn't caused any issues I'd flush it myself and preserve it's integrity.

Yes, B1's have the park brake lever coming up through the floor. For the B2's, they switched to the under-dash pull handle. The cable attaches just outside the firewall and loops down past the manifolds, is clamped to the frame along side the engine, and connects through the flywheel pan to the park brake linkage. Here are a few pics of mine. You're B3D should be similar.

I plan to get in Thursday early afternoon so I can get checked in for the event and at the hotel. Bummer...

Yes, the Ol' Dodge will be there. And I always have a small took kit under the seat, just in case. That's just the mechanic in me. Can't go anywhere without tools... Where will you be staying?

I’ll be there again this year.

Nice Power Wagon. Civilian Power Wagons began in ‘45, and that body style ran into the mid ‘50’s. MIlitary versions, VC’s and WC’s, started in ‘40 or ‘41.

That’s not a FD bell housing. It appears to be a standard clutch model. The FD bell housing is longer and has the pedals mounted on a separate shaft with an extra linkage going back to the clutch shaft. The standard clutch has the brake pedal on the clutch shaft.

RA, GA, and AM is on the ignition switch. RA = Radio, GA = Gauges (and coil), and AM = Ammeter (voltage input)

I recall struggling to get mine to fit nicely, and they still don't seal up very well.

This place isn’t big enough for me either, but it’s what we have for now. We’re starting to look for a bit more room.

I don’t believe it needs to be. I believe it was more sealing against dust intrusion.

Good catch and fix. Now just replace that wire nut with a proper connector and all will be good. Wire nuts have no place in vehicle electrical systems.

YIKES!! We bought our home a few years ago for $109,000. 1310 sq. ft., 1.5 story, 3BR, 1.5 BA, on 6900 sq. ft. lot. Your property prices out there are crazy compared to what I'm used to around here. Looks like we'd have to add another '0' to the price out there.

The pipe plug that angles up, just behind the PTO cover, is the fill/level plug

I always connect heater cores with the inlet at the bottom so that any air is naturally purged up and out with the return line.

Not the reason... Can’t make a yard stick any shorter either...

Does your truck have Fluid Drive? I have that on my truck's carb too, and my truck has FD. I have mine screwed in so that it isn't functioning. I didn't like the slow return to idle. So far it hasn't caused an issue with stalling.