Jack's 47

I have friends down here so we made a hardware store run. I cleaned all the grease off everything, and epoxied the little pin to the plate. Waiting for it to set and then going to see if I can set the timing. I hope it runs as well as it did before...I took this thing 3000 miles in a week back in June!

Took out the distributor housing and played around with it. I still have the pin that the plate sits on. Wondering if I should attach the pin to the plate or the bottom piece

No drill but I'm willing to buy one compared to waiting and paying shop rates!

Ah, interesting idea...yes I'm sure I can find something. I was thinking self tapping screw through the plate and into the housing...just needs to be short enough so that it doesn't mess with the mechanical vacuum advance.

I drove from my current town of Asheville, NC to Charleston, SC. I don't know how to keep the breaker plate down. Are you thinking bailing wire somehow?

Ran my truck today for about 2 hours or so. Stopped for gas, wouldn't start...popped the distributor cap (already had replaced points and condenser) and found loose wires. Tightened them up but had flooded the carb trying to get it started. Push started it with success, but didn't stay running. Did it again and just kept the RPMs up and back on the highway to finish my trip. Once I got to my destination, the truck died again. Mind you, I had been running at WOT for about 1.5 hours. I had never let it drop or idle. I couldn't get it started again and had to push to a spot under the highway...it's still there and I'm at a motel about 1/4 mile away. I'm thinking ignition advance could be a problem but not sure how to fix. Also, the distributor plate is loose and I don't know how to secure it. This creates problems with setting the point gap, since the plate moves around easily with my hand. There is a hole and a nub under the condenser but the nub broke off. I'm not sure how to get this secure. I only have a day to fix this...so any thoughts are very helpful. I'm about 250 miles from home. 1947 1/2 ton with the 218 flathead six.

I can't figure this out - how do I remove the axle shaft with a slide hammer? Anyone have a video link? Won't budge. Thanks

I have installed the new horn button set up and it works, but I can't seem to get the wire placed high enough to activate but low enough to not go off all the time. Is there a trick to this that I'm not getting? Pictures would really help, or just letting me know the trick! Thanks

The pinion was not preloaded. The nut came off by hand.

Okay, since I'm doing all of this in my dirt driveway, I think I'll hold off on brake and shaft removal until I have a garage. Does anyone know the pinion nut torque setting? It was very loose when I removed it.

Great, thanks for all the help! I'm guessing the axle breather is on the top of the differential? What does it look like? Also, are you saying that in order to replace the gasket I have to pull the whole diff assembly?

I removed my driveshaft to replace the u-joint, and thought I would replace the differential pinion seal and differential gasket since there is a slow leak. Does anyone know of a guide or instructions on how to do so? I've done a lot of my own work on cars over the years, but never touched a differential before. I removed all the bolts to the carrier(?) and it still won't come off. My truck is a 1947 Dodge 1/2 ton.