Merle Coggins

I had one from California Car Covers that fit pretty good. I only wished that it had mirror pockets. After a few years of use it got a couple of rips in it. One from the hood ornament poking through the front. I ordered a replacement and asked for extra material to reinforce that spot. I also asked for extra material to make mirror pockets. They gladly accommodated me, and even offered that they would sew in mirror pockets if I marked it out and sent it back to them. I never got around to doing that, and now it has an indoor living space, so I don’t use it anymore. I would highly recommend California Car Covers.

Yes, the fuel like runs up the left side frame rail, follows the lower rear flange of the front cross member over to the right side, then up to the fuel pump.

That tool doesn’t look broken to me... ?

I'm with Jan on this... You have the engine out where it's easy to work on, and you have all new studs. Now's the time... I believe most of the studs end up into the coolant. Just play it safe and put a good quality thread sealant on all of them. I have used a PTFE pipe thread sealant and it has worked fine. I know there are some high temp versions out there, Permetex makes one, that may be more conducive to exhaust studs. But I've had success with the normal stuff. I also like the Permetex #9 Tack and Seal for stuff like that.

Ahh.. Red tractors... Good man... I grew up with IH Farmalls too.

Kind of partial to green? LOL! Hard to tell what the tractor is hiding behind the RV, but I'm guessing it may be green too. ?

Sodium filled valves were used in the truck engines of that size.

If you cut it off you'll need to make a block off plate to keep the hot exhaust gasses from heating the bottom of the intake. You'd be better off locking it in the horizontal position. If you apply heat where the arrow points, on both sides, it will likely free up. Then you could tack weld it in the position that mine was in when I took this picture. Or replace the spring, if needed, and have a working heat riser.

Gener-nator will put an alternator into your Autolite generator housing. Not cheap though. https://www.gener-nator.com/

My manifolds were separated when I got my truck, and the heat riser flap was also seized in the horizontal position. In hind side I should have left it like it was, but I applied a bit of heat to the edges, over the pin, and it freed right up. I then put a spring kit from Bernbaum on it and it never worked right.

Catalogs that list things by model year make things quite muddy. They should be listed by model number designation instead. The 'model year' gets a bit fuzzy due to how the DMV's registered vehicles back then. Often times the "year" on the title showed the year it sold rather than when it was made. Also, in recent times we are used to the manufacturers releasing the 'new' model years in September or October of the previous year. This also wasn't the case back then.

It’s a weep hole to allow coolant to escape if the seal leaks. That one looks a bit different than the normal version, but that whole pump looks a bit different.

I don’t believe that is the correct carburetor for your truck. I believe the 1 ton trucks used a Stromberg. But it should work for you. That extra spring was probably added to assist the return spring if the throttle was sticky. It certainly isn’t supposed to be there.

Another thought... Don't the cars have a rubber isolation on the steering box mount to the frame? On my truck it's mounted solid, but I recall some discussion about an isolation mount for the cars. Could this have failed suddenly allowing the whole steering box to move side to side. That could act similar to having a lot of play within the box. You said that the pitman arm doesn't move when taking up the play in the steering wheel, but was the steering gear box moving?

At the factory they had a brand new block with a freshly machined surface to seat the plug into. You don't have that luxury... A little sealant upon assembly will help account for the rougher surfaces. Edit: I just came across this video from Permetex, explaining the different types of sealants, and where/when to use each type.

Mine will do that sometimes too. Once as I was pulling in, and parking, at a cruise night in Hartford. I bumped the horn button with my forearm as I was cranking on the steering wheel to back it into a spot. The horn went off and stayed going until I could get parked. Then I could free up a hand to tap on the button to get it popped back up. I sure know how to get a crowd's attention when I arrive.?

Did the pitman arm move during that 3" of steering wheel play? "Only the joints rolled slightly with no play." That statement leads me to think you have loose tie rod ends, or drag link ends.

I missed the part about the gasket. If it’s leaking between the diff housing and the axle housing then you will need to pull out the diff. Are there gaskets available for that? I usually use RTV or Permetex Anerobic Gasket Maker, which seals and hardens well for that type of mating surfaces. For that you will need to pull the brake drums, disconnect the brake lines, and remove the brake assemblies. Pay attention to the shims behind the brake backing plates. Then you can pull out the axle shafts. You will need pullers for the brake drums and the axle shafts. Once the axle shafts are out you can then remove the diff assembly. The axle breather is incorporated into the bolt that holds the brake line splitter Tee to the top of the axle tube to the left of the diff.

In order to pull the whole diff assembly you first would need to remove the axle shafts. However, none of that is necessary to replace the pinion shaft seal. Since you already have the driveshaft off, you now need to remove the input flange on the diff. Remove the nut and slide the drive flange off the shaft. You may need to use a puller. You can then use your seal remover of choice to remove the old seal. Install a new seal and reassemble. You may also want to inspect the seal surface on the drive flange. You may need to put a Speedi-Sleeve on it. Upon reassembly you'll need to apply a certain amount of torque on the pinion nut. I don't have that spec handy at the moment. While you're at it, I would also advice that you check/clean the axle breather. If the axle can't breath properly it can build up pressure that will cause seal leakage.

That appears to be what I'd call an 'oil pressure bypass'. Assuming that the fitting on the right that goes into the block skirt is open to the sump? I have to wonder if there was a bypass filter installed at one time and someone removed it, thinking that they needed to connect the inlet and outlet as a filter bypass, not fully understanding how a bypass filter works?

Check the plumbing isle of your local hardware store. You need a male pipe to female inverted flare fitting. They are commonly available in various sizes. Most auto parts store computer jockeys wouldn't know an inverted flare fitting if it hit them in the nose... If they can't find it in their computer, "We don't have it". EDIT: Oops, I read it wrong. I was thinking you needed a fitting for the fuel pump to go from the pipe thread to inverted flare line.

As lonejacklarry said, it was likely sold and first registered in 1953 and so that became the model year on the title. My B2C was built in December of 1950, and must have been purchased in early 1951. The title shows it to be a '51, but I call it a '50 as the B2's are all '50's in my mind.

Give that kid an A+ ?

I remember the old farm truck we had (55 Ford F200) back in the day had a simple hook and eye latch to keep the door closed. Apparently the latch didn't work and it was too troublesome to repair.

I was OK with it until, "we stayed in the bar until...". I would advise against that practice in any weather when traveling on 2 wheels. ?