Merle Coggins

I believe the picture you responded to has been removed.

Well...there you go... I wasn't aware anyone offered them. Thanks Brent.

Ha... nice use of a storm window latch. There should be a “U” shaped spring at the bottom of the door, inside, to hold it closed. Nobody repops them as far as I know. Go with what works...

I have to wonder if you got the distributor in 180 degrees off after your tuneup. This would have the ignition sparking at the end of the exhaust stroke instead of on the compression stroke. If the exhaust system is loaded up with fuel from extended cranking, trying to start it, that delayed spark can ignite that fuel vapor exiting the cylinder and causing the explosion that took out your muffler. Did you have the distributor out to replace the points?

Is there a "park" mode with the vacuum wipers, or do they just stop where ever you turn the switch off? I never used the vacuum wiper setup on my truck. During my build I acquired a parts truck that had electric wipers. I swapped the electric setup into my truck.

Here are my original rims, being painted, and one that I kept from my parts truck that is now my spare. These are for a 3/4 ton with 5X5" pattern.

Right turn Clyde...

That's for those days when you're not sure whether you're coming or going... ?

I haven't found a way to pack longer arms under the seat... ?

The original door panels on my B2C had embossing. And when I sent them to Quiet Rides for patterns, so that they could make the proper B1-B2 door panels, the new ones they sent back to me had similar embossing.

I have my "spare" fuel pump stored with a couple of studs, made from threaded rod. If I ever need to install this unit in the field I can insert the studs, slip the pump over them, and tighten down the nuts. Once it's snug against the block I can always remove one nut and stud at a time and reinsert the proper bolts. That's my theoretical plan anyway. I haven't needed to put it to a test yet. This idea came to me as I was replacing the pump in a parking lot several years ago. I struggled to get the bolts started, especially the second bolt, as I had limited reach with both arms together. I eventually got it, but I kept thinking that if I had long enough bolts, or studs, it would have been much easier.

Do you have a volt meter to confirm that you have voltage at the IGN connection with the key on? You can also check that the wire to your horn button is truly grounding when pressed. These are a couple of the tests Plymouthy is referring to. VOM = Volt/Ohm Meter. (A.K.A. Multimeter)

I put around 1800 miles on mine in one week this past fall. I drove it from Wisconsin to Tennessee for a WPC Annual Meet. It was about 800 miles one way. We broke the trip up into a couple of days each way to minimize the stress on us, and the truck. I traveled mostly on the Interstate highways at around 70 MPH. I also have 3.73 gears.

I’d be killing the power to it until it can be investigated thouroughly, and repaired. Don’t need I starting the house on fire.

Head bolt heaters were an aftermarket thing. It's basically a heating element built into a replacement head bolt. Like any other engine heater/block heater, you'd plug it in and it heats up, warming up the coolant/engine.

Hey, I just saw that you are in Sacramento. You need to check out Tim's BBQ party in April, down in Lodi/Clements.

You'll need to find doors without vent windows and remove the glass and front track. The regulator is the same, as far as I can tell, but the bottom channel for the glass is different, and there is a channel/track at the front of the door to guide the window. Once you have those pieces you can remove your glass and cut out the tabs that support the vent window and front track/channel in your current doors. Then it's just a matter of swapping in the other track and windows.

It has a head bolt heater. Don't see them anymore. Also, that's an interesting looking coil, and it doesn't look like the coil wire is going into the center post of the cap.

Arm rest looks like it may be original. Door panels and seat covers are not.

That'll work just fine. I have a double flair brake line coming out of my tank.

Another way to look at it is that if it doesn't have an engine that runs what do you need brakes for? If it won't go anywhere there's no need to make it stop.

I don’t know ?... But I remember it looked something like this...

Welcome to the truck family. Looks like a solid truck to add to your fleet. We look forward to your tales and the progress continues.

I’m a little confused about your situation. I don’t know the Chrysler wiring, and don’t have a schematic for your car, but in most cases the horn ring provides a ground for the horn, or horn relay. If there was a short in the horn ring it would only provide constant ground and have the horn sounding off constantly. I also don’t understand what 4 prong switch you are referring to. The ignition switch? It seems to me that your relay is wired wrong. You didn’t mention any of the relay wires going to the horns themselves. I would guess that the H,B,and S on the relay would refer to Horn, Battery, and Switch. If that’s the case, your B terminal is the only one connected properly. S would go up to your horn ring on the steering wheel and H would go to the horns. Maybe someone has a wire diagram for your car to verify this?