Merle Coggins

A quick Google search turned up this site. https://www.usafilterstore.com/baldwin-jc405-oil-filter.html

Why not? I’ve used K&N filters for years.

I don’t remember where I got my last batch. I found a supplier selling online and bought several. I still have a few left.

There's a giant thumb screw under the filter that tightens/loosens the clamp that attaches the filter assembly to the top of the carburetor. Loosen the screw and lift off the filter assembly.

If this were a high RPM, high performance, engine it may make a difference. But I wouldn't expect you to gain enough performance differences to warrant the added work, compromising the integrity of the valve guides in the process.

They should be either 1/4” or 3/8” NPT. I don’t remember exactly. New plugs may have a hex instead of a square drive.

Have you ensured proper free play on the brake pedal - master cylinder linkage? If your linkage is set too tight the master cylinder may not be returning fully, which can not allow the brakes to fully release.

Your ‘40 is a little different than my ‘50, but turn signals are all aftermarket for these trucks. I used a Signal Stat 900 switch on the column. I then converted my front parking lamps to a dual filament type and added a right side tail/brake lamp, all wired up through the Signal Stat. My parking lamps up front have clear glass lenses and I wasn’t able to find amber bulbs in 6 volt. I did, however, find 6v amber LED bulbs that work great. Rear bulbs are still incandescent so it still pulls enough current for the flasher to function.

That will be true for any engine good ignition wires. Unless you have exposed spark plug terminals on your wires, and you are driving around in the rain with the hood open, you should have nothing to worry about.

Keep in mind, if you make it so that they go on easy they'll come off easy... probably when you don't want them to. I once lost a hub cap on I-94 in Michigan. It was a construction zone with absolutely no place to pull over. I saw it in the mirror as it spun itself down the road, ending up against the median wall. I had to say good-by to that one and keep moving. When I returned home I worked all of the clips outward for a tighter fit. Haven't lost one since.

I got a seat upholstery kit from Roberts back when I was building my truck. I installed it myself and it looked OK. However, I found that the springs didn't offer enough support on longer drives. I eventually took the seat to an upholsterer. He was able to remove the cover and add some extra foam, reusing that cover from Roberts. It's much more comfortable now.

I believe you are correct. If you align the marks, as shown in Marc's photo, you will have #6 in firing position. Turn it 360 to get #1 in firing position to setup your distributor. There should be marks on the pulley, or damper. Often times you have to do a little polishing with some sand paper, or a Scotch Brite pad to find them.

Yes, keep the polarity the same. If you are boosting it with 12 volts, either disconnect the 6 volt battery, or only connect the jumper cables while cranking. This will avoid over charging the 6 volt battery from the 12 volt battery between cranking bursts. As long as all other 6 volt electrical systems are turned off, or disconnected, during this you should be fine.

If it’ll start and stay running try letting it run and warm up a bit, and see what happens. I’ve had valves stick on my truck from time to time, after extended periods of non-use. It would start hard and then idle very rough. After a couple of minutes of rough running it would smooth out as things warmed up and the valves freed themselves. It seemed to happen most often if there was a rainy few days directly after taking a long drive with the truck. It must have been the extra moisture in the air after the engine had a good heat cycle to clean it out. I haven’t experienced it in several years now.

Sounds to me that it may be a choke issue. If the choke is not closing properly it will run too lean for a cold startup. After a couple pumps of the throttle you are adding extra fuel to get it started, but then it runs too lean to continue to run. You may want to verify that your choke is working properly. It could also be closing too tightly and not opening enough after starting, which would make an over rich condition and would also choke out the engine after starting.

Around here there is so much salt brine on the roads that even between weather events there seems to be a film of salt brine on the roads. Enough so that you still seem to get that crap up on your vehicle. Maybe if you're out on your own it isn't as bad as commuting on the main roads with other vehicles in close proximity kicking it up.

I have 2/0 battery cables in my truck. I was able to make them to fit with some battery cable we had laying around at the shop. (Had a box of take-offs from some battery package upgrades on some of our equipment) My truck cranks over so well that it apparently prompted some debate at a WPC Club meet a few years ago. We were doing a group tour, with several vehicles, of Civil War battle grounds near Chattanooga, TN. There were several stops along the tour. At one stop, later in the day, a couple other guys approached me to settle a bet. One of them was convinced that I had upgraded to 12 volts based on how well my truck cranked over when I would start it. The other believed it was still 6 volt. I assured them it was still 6 volt, but had very good battery cables with clean connections.

Look very similar to older wheel loader cab door latches, or older tractor cab latches.

Interesting theory, Greg. It got me thinking, so I took a look at my parts catalog. In the B-series trucks, the 1/2 and 3/4 ton (B & C) trucks got the 218 and the 1 ton (D) got the 230. I see that indeed the 218 and 230 engines have different head part numbers. (Serial number break is likely for internal vs. external bypass) But it seems they also had a low compression head available for export models. I wonder if the car side did the same thing.

I agree with checking cables, connections, and/or the starter. Old cables, even if proper size, can get corroded causing added resistance and limiting the current carrying capacity, and causing a voltage drop at the starter. Dirty or corroded connections can also do the same thing. And if the starter brushes or bushings are bad it will limit it’s ability to spin properly with the torque needed to crank over your engine.

Looks like a standard New Process spur gear 4 speed that was used in many Dodge trucks up through 1950.

I guess I skipped over that part.

Have you tried adding some oil into the oil cups for the front and rear bearings on your generator? Maybe they're just running dry.

It was still looking good in the '90's. I'm guessing at some point in time it was left parked outside and no longer used. That's a shame. Glad to see it getting some love again. It's interesting that all of the valving and hose connections are between the front and rear cab doors. Is the pump driven from the PTO and placed in that space too? I wonder if this serial number identifier/decoder will show which engine this truck would have? Just type your chassis serial number in and see what it shows. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

Very true. I forgot about the "X" serial numbered B1's.