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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Yes, glass bowl should be hanging down. It is a sediment bowl, designed to separate any larger particles out of the fuel and collect them in the bowl. The inlet is at the sediment bowl and the outlet is above the pump body.
  2. I’m no expert on the internals of the horn, but it appears that there is a section of wire missing between the upper and lower connection points on the left side in that one picture. Is that wire needed to complete the circuit?
  3. The foot starters don’t have a starter solenoid. They have a mechanical lever that engages the bendix drive and closes switching contacts to drive the motor. When I need to crank over the engine from under the hood on my truck I just reach down and activate the starter lever by hand.
  4. These are our Aventon Pace 500 e-bikes in front of Ben Bikin’ in Sparta, WI. We were riding the Elroy-Sparta trail, the first ever railroad converted to recreational trail
  5. I needed some building supplies and my daily pickup was full of work related things, so the Ol’ Dodge went to work for me.
  6. I usually find that when you need to go in that last inch you just need to release the clutch by depressing the clutch pedal. It may require a helper unless you can find a way to rig up a tool on the linkage to manipulate the clutch from underneath. Even though you aligned the clutch with another input shaft it could be off slightly causing things to be a bit tight going in. By releasing the clutch it will self align allowing the trans to slip into place.
  7. I believe you’re on the right track. You have identified a power draw when there shouldn’t be one. Now you just need to systematically disconnect different circuits until the power draw disappears. Once you identify which circuit is causing the problem you can then troubleshoot that circuit and fix the problem.
  8. I also used DupliColor Engine paint, Aluminum color
  9. That bugger is in there tight. I'd be afraid of damaging the damper with that arrangement. I'd be finding a way to wedge the flywheel instead. Also, you may want to invest in a 3/4" breaker bar to work with that socket, rather than reducing it down to 1/2" drive. Then you can put a long cheater pipe on it for more leverage.
  10. Good visual Mark, but you missed the actual circuit that he created. He had a series parallel circuit. That makes the math even more complicated... ?
  11. Remove the pinch bolt on that clutch adjustment piece and drive a screwdriver or small chisel into the gap. This will open up the bore slightly and make it easier to slide off the shaft.
  12. When you put multiple resistors in parallel the overall resistance in the circuit is lower. 2 resistors of the same resistance value will result in half of the rated resistance of each resistor. This lower resistance is why your voltage was higher.
  13. You shouldn’t need to remove the FD to remove the clutch. Since you have the trans out you should be able to remove the bolts that attach the clutch to the FD driven plate, then lower the clutch out the bottom of the bell housing. Yes, you need to use a 5/8” open end wrench to remove the nuts that attach the FD to the crankshaft. I don’t recall needing a special wrench, but it can’t be too thick. And yes, the FD would need to be removed before removing the bell housing. Part of the housing goes down between the FD and the block..
  14. ?? A coworker used to have that picture as the desktop background on his computer. Your picture above reminded me of it and I had to go search it out on Google.
  15. I believe there should be a gasket between the trans and bell housing that seals off that shaft hole. It doesn’t need to be plugged.
  16. I have a 3/4” drive torque wrench that goes up to 600 ft. lbs. I used to use it a lot when I was a full time heavy equipment mechanic. I haven’t used it is years. This is how I imagine Dodgeb4ya changing his tires… ?
  17. Is this a new issue that started after replacing the heat riser spring? It’s actually a common situation. Heat soak from the engine tends to expand the fuel in the float bowl causing a minor flooding condition. If you open the throttle slightly (1/4 throttle or so) while cranking they usually fire up much easier.
  18. Can you make an Event on the group page? People would still need to go look at the Events, but you could also make a post, then go back and Reply to it from time to time to bring it back to the front.
  19. I had a beeping flasher in my truck for a while to remind me to turn off the signals, as it's an aftermarket signal switch without auto cancel. However, after a while it got too annoying and I switched back to a normal flasher. I don't seem to have a problem canceling the blinkers. It's just become a part of the routine now.
  20. Greyhound works well, but I don't know if they'd take a 250 lb. package, as the drivers need to be able to load and unload it from the luggage bays.
  21. Ask for brake line. You can either buy the premade sticks and splice them together with couplers, or buy a roll of brake line and flare your own ends. If you do the "make your own" with a roll of tubing I recommend the copper/nickel tubing. It's easier to bend and work with.
  22. I used a Rusty Hope kit to convert my front brakes.
  23. For now you could just cap off that port below the thermostat so that you can fill the system and run the engine.
  24. Interesting... Why would one wish to shut off the thermostat bypass? And the second adapter appears to be below the thermostat, which would be hot coolant under pressure, similar to the port at the rear of the head. Was it supposed to get more coolant flow through the heater, in effect making the heater the thermostat bypass circuit with the valve closed? Can anyone find this option in a W-Series parts catalog?
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