Merle Coggins

Looks like a standard New Process spur gear 4 speed that was used in many Dodge trucks up through 1950.

I guess I skipped over that part.

Have you tried adding some oil into the oil cups for the front and rear bearings on your generator? Maybe they're just running dry.

It was still looking good in the '90's. I'm guessing at some point in time it was left parked outside and no longer used. That's a shame. Glad to see it getting some love again. It's interesting that all of the valving and hose connections are between the front and rear cab doors. Is the pump driven from the PTO and placed in that space too? I wonder if this serial number identifier/decoder will show which engine this truck would have? Just type your chassis serial number in and see what it shows. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

Very true. I forgot about the "X" serial numbered B1's.

They are B3 / B4 gauge faces based on the font and the fact that the Amp and Oil gauges have the needles coming down from the top. 50-0-50 Ammeter gauge started in '50 on the B2 series.

No, but I thought about it... ?

I found, and purchased, a green one just like that several years ago. I don't recall where I found it.

Cover it with a floor mat and nobody will know...

If a bypass oil filter "does nothing", then diesel engine manufacturers wouldn't still be using them. They do filter your oil, just not in the same way that a full flow filter would.

Also, it depends on the design of your filter. Some filters return oil from the upper fitting, and the feed port in the bottom actually comes out about half way up inside the filter. It's very normal for the filter to be full of oil when you service it. Many filter housings have a drain plug near the bottom so that you can drain it down before removing the cover and pulling out the filter element.

The 4 speed trans has a different mounting bolt pattern, so unless your bell housing is drilled for both (unlikely) you would need to upgrade the bell housing to be able to install a 4 speed. I would be better to find a 3 speed from a '49 or earlier truck and use it instead. The only thing you would gain with a 4 speed is the Granny low 1st gear, and the ability to add a PTO.

Take some fine sandpaper, or a Scothbrite pad and lightly buff the outer edge of the pulley. It’s quite possible that paint, dirt, or rust, is hiding the timing marks. Once you find them highlight the important marks with a white paint pen so they’re easy to see with a timing light.

The coil coming from the master cylinder is to allow some flex in the line between the rubber mounted bell housing and the frame. As I recall it then goes into a 4 way connector. 2 lines come out and go to the two front wheels and one goes rearward to the rear axle. It originally would have been one line from the 4 way block all the way to the flex hose that goes down to the axle. Your coiled line looks to have a few kinks in it. That could cause a bit of restriction in fluid flow.

Just a different design between manufacturers. Nothing to worry about. However, it makes it very important to get your sprocket and chain set from the same supplier because of this. Another member here discovered this recently when he got a miss matched set and the chain wouldn't work properly with the sprockets.

It'll only sit still, at idle with the clutch engaged, if you have the brakes applied. Even at idle.

Does your paint store have a scanner, or a book of paint chips? When I painted my truck, many years ago, I printed out a copy of the paint chart from the DPETCA site http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm that shows the DuPont DULUX or DUCO numbers. And although those were no longer good numbers the guy at my local paint supplier made a phone call to someone and was able to get cross to a modern paint code. He then pulled out a giant book of paint chips and located the one that matched the modern code. I had also brought in my glove box door, as the paint on the inside was still in very good original condition. We were able to verify that the chip in the book did match pretty good to the glove box door. He could then mix up the paint I needed. I know some shops also have a scanner that they can use to scan your paint, such as on a glove box door, and match it up to a paint mix.

Usually a "common" terminal is only used on a switch that has normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts. The "common" terminal would be the input, and the output would be the NC terminal when the switch is at rest. Then the output changes to the NO contacts when the switch is activated. Your relay doesn't have this type of switch. If you look at the diagram on the side of the relay it shows terminal 3 branches and connects to the switch contact and also to the coil. 5 goes to the horn button and when pressed it supplies a ground for the coil circuit. This will energize the coil, and magnetize it, which pulls the contacts closed. Once the contacts close on the switch the input voltage at 3 passes through to 1 and sends voltage to your horns.

If there is only one terminal on the horn then it is a power terminal, and the horn is grounded through the mount. On that type of horn you need to use a relay as the horn switch/button is a grounding switch. It can’t supply a power source to the horn(s). The horn button activates the relay which then relays power to the horn(s). The truck horns, with 2 terminals, have a constant power feed to one terminal and the horn button provides the ground for the second terminal to complete the circuit.

While I agree that it looks like an “OG” on your tag, I believe it should be “DG”. D - would indicate Dodge Truck in the Canadian model numbers. (F would be a Fargo) G - indicates the model series, which is ‘51-52. (Equivalent to the B-3 series in US models) 2 - indicates a 1 ton truck 26 - indicates the wheel base, 126 inches. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/partspages/SerialNumberGuide1920-57/slide013.html With that information it would seem that someone either swapped out the rear fenders, or the entire bed was swapped out with a ‘53 model year, or DH2-26 truck bed/fenders. Unless Canada got the square fenders earlier than we did here in the US.

I believe it was ‘51 or ‘52 when they started using the synchronized 4 speeds in the light trucks.

I’ve heard the “Jesus Clip” reference with the same definition that Bob gave. Even though there are correct technical names for the clips, as referenced by Sniper, any clip that tends to fly into the nether regions of the shop upon removal or installation is called a Jesus clip.

H,B,S, would be Horn, Battery, Switch. On your other one, according to the diagram on the side, 3 is your battery (power) connection, 1 is the output to the horn, and 5 would go to your horn button to provide the ground to activate the relay. If you are blowing a fuse it may be that your horn is shorted out causing a direct ground when power is applied.Can you temporarily connect your power feed wire directly to the horn and get it to sound off without blowing the fuse?

I wouldn’t worry about the oil pump position as long as you’re happy with the position of the rotor with #1 in firing position. I’ve heard the “7 O’clock position” mentioned many times, but it is nowhere to be found in the Pilot House shop manuals. I thought I had read somewhere about how to position the oil pump slot when installing the pump, but I can’t find that now. Here is a clip from the shop manual.

Being at 7 o’clock isn’t all that important, but if you want it to be you’ll have to re-index your oil pump again. However, having the rotor pointing between the wire towers has more to do with the distributor timing position. You can loosen the adjustment and rotate the distributor to line it up. However, that would be done as part of a static timing procedure with a test light and a power source.