JBNeal

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter

additional information - throttle return spring

additional information - flathead technical information

Since there is a port in the block for the draft tube, might as well use it...concerns about oil droplets getting sucked up into the charged air stream can be dealt with by dampening the air flow with metal mesh very much like that brillo pad filter media in the crankcase breather cap. The intake manifold should have at least one vacuum port that can be used, or ya can tap the cast iron to make your own port. Adding a carb spacer can be tricky as there should be a small vac.passage that is needed by the carb. Not sure how the military carbs differ from the civilian carbs internally...I had communicated with grey beard about his PCV work and suggested choking down his crankcase air breather, but he had dialed in his truck with the newer style PCV valve, was happy with his customization and wasn't interested in experimenting further...

additional information - grey beard's PCV valve installation & modifications You can run the partial PCV setup but it will not draw fumes from the crankcase during high vacuum operation; full PCV setup will draw fumes during all vacuum conditions. Routing of the PCV valve tubing should allow for any oil droplets to drain back into the crankcase to avoid puddling that could choke off that line, which could lead to fouling and eventual clogging

When I rebuilt my steering gearbox, I filled with John Deere Corn Head grease...no leaks, smooth operation, very pleased

nice detail work in the engine compartment...what coating is on the manifolds?

That is generally how I would tighten wheel bearings...I had several seasoned mechanics tell me that a torque wrench is great but after awhile you can get a feel for when you're "within specs"...so they had me snug up the axle nut with one hand while rotating the drum with the other hand; then put a wrench on the nut to tighten the rest of the way SLOWLY while rotating the drum with two fingers of the other hand; once the drum feels difficult to rotate with two fingers, then back the axle nut off so that the cotter pin slips into its spindle hole. Verify wheel bearing tightness by installing wheel and tire and shake it up'n'down then side-to-side then give it a good spin in both sides to listen for any scraping growling grinding or squeaking...if ya do have a torque wrench and the factory specs, do it all by hand then dbl check your work with the torque wrench to see if'n ya nailed it

Maybe that vibration is a loose wheel bearing...

additional information - column shift adjustments

CG is probably in the vicinity of the throttle linkage bolted to the bell housing...

I have seen roll pins distort so that they are no longer straight, with mating bore axes not in alignment...very difficult to drive out, usually have to drill out ends of pin, remove mating parts, then drive remainder of pin clear of bores...

them cork gaskets can be adhered to the oil pan with a gasket sealant, but considering that damage is at the bolt hole, it's probably gonna seep a little bit...definitely see what the seller can do to rectify this situation...

Off the top of my head, ordering engine parts should be done for the year of the engine because the head gasket, rear main seal, and timing cover seal changed over the years. As far as I know, car and truck flathead engine internals were the same for the same model years, so if ya have a '56 Plymouth 230, you could order engine parts for a '56 Dodge 1-ton with a 230... additional information - Flathead Valve Adjustments

Other Patents Pending

I sourced this canister on eBay years ago, it does not appear to have been used as there are no witness marks from a mounting clamp band, the top is still glossy, and the internals are bone dry with no evidence of oil residue. The decals have some aging so I'm guessing that it may have been a shelf display. The JC decal measures about 1.625" x 4.125", the outlet decal measures about 0.50" x 1.75"...I don't know of any reproductions available, but maybe a creative type could scan the originals to recreate the original artwork, digitally color correct to produce a jpg approximation, and crank out a few for personal consumption...this might be one of those times that a reproduction could be made close enough and only the random nitpicker could question its authenticity

Air brakes...?

I sourced a new Mopar prop.valve from eBay and swapped out the original after replacing the original calipers...that's about when I noticed the brake fluid on the rubber cap during one of the many system bleeding exercises. I thought for sure the original was sticking, but it was clear afterwards that the calipers were the issue as the brake fluid amount on the rubber cap was unchanged. I believe that the brake pressure variation within the system is right at the threshold for triggering the ABS warning light, and the variation is significantly less than it was 3 months ago with the reduction of brake fluid on the prop.valve rubber cap. From what I've read, the prop.valve sensor triggers an idiot light and doesn't reset until after the ECM is powered down then reenergized, with a few other operational criteria referenced before lighting up again. Since my trailer brake controller has a LED that instantaneously shows when the brake lights are on, I can double check to see if the brakes are dragging again...so far, that's checking out, even when pulling a heavy trailer...

QuadCab brakes seem to be working OK but the ABS warning light still appears to come on at random times. The brake fluid on the proportioning valve rubber cap doesn't seem to get larger than the tip of a fat ballpoint pen, and instead of looking wet, it just looks like a witness mark. This tells me that whatever part that is sticking enough to cause a pressure spike isn't sticking for very long, and much less than 3 months ago, and that's a good thing...I've been stewing on this for weeks, and tried something new a few weeks ago. In order to wear in the rear calipers a little faster, I have started to jam on the brakes whenever I am going in reverse on dry pavement...can't do that effectively on the gravel surfaces on most of the roads I drive on though...this seems to keep the ABS warning light off for a few days of driving around on loose surfaces...onward and upwards

And the name for that category should be called THUNDERDOME ?

I had to get off of the HAMB years ago because of the toxic ppl on there who would go off the reservation with their nastiness over the simplest question or comment...it got to be that if anything was posted on there, those knuckleheads would go all FLAME ON and it sucked the fun out of site participation... I appreciate the efforts to keep this site focused on the automotive restoration hobby, it's the only reason that I participate because it's one of the few sources of recreation that I have available...all the inflated egos, sanctimonious attitudes and self-righteous opinions can pollute the rest of the internets for all I care, I just want to keep on truckin'

Needle bounce can be used to monitor fuel amount in several ways: no bounce when tank is full bounce is intermittent when tank is 1/4 full no bounce when tank is empty

that WDT is a fine trophy to hang on the wall ?

Your original strips may have been attacked before and the carriage bolts could have rounded out them square holes...

And then there's the learning of when solder is no longer any good...yep, solder can go bad, kinda like welding rods...