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37plymouth-hill

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth business coupe

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  • Biography
    Love my old Plymouth
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  • Location
    5310 Potter Rd Deming WA 98244
  • Interests
    Tinkering on this old car and grandkids

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  1. Thank you all for the input. I’m going to examine the crank when I return home and perhaps try and take some more photos. I’m guessing perhaps the crank is from something other a 1949?
  2. I cleaned the crank thoroughly with a small diameter honing tool.
  3. Clutch pilot is correct. I called the supplier and they said this is the correct bushing. They told me the outside diameter corresponds to the ones they have on the shelf for this motor.
  4. Hi i ordered a new pilot bushing for a dodge 230 cu in motor (1949). The outside diameter measures .939”. The inside diameter of the input shaft is only .877” or approximately 1/16” smaller in diameter than the bushing. I just can’t imagine being able to drive this bushing into the crankshaft opening with this much of a variance. The inside of the bushing appears to just slide over the transmission input shaft perfectly. Any guidance would be appreciated.
  5. Adam, the pilot bushing and depth appear to be identical, but I will check this again.
  6. Thank you im making spacers out of a 3/16” 1-1/2” metal bar I had for knife making. The thicknesses are within .002 of each other. i can make one out of aluminum also. The dowels seem adequate in length
  7. I was attempting on using the flywheel from the 201. The starter just barely engages, but the clutch assembly is encroaching on the back of the bell housing within dangerous tolerances. I can see now the logical solution is to put a spacer in between the block and the bell housing (4.5 mm) if I keep the 201 flywheel, bell housing and transmission. Moving the motor forward 4.5 mm should be possible without too much trouble. Are there machine shops that could make a spacer for me the would be very precise? From the reading I’ve done, the bellhousing to the block connection is very important. Thanks everyone for pitching in with your help.
  8. Thank you so much. I believe this would then affect the rear motor mounts, clutch linkage etc...hmm
  9. Hi all Im installing a 1949 Dodge 230ci motor in my 1937 Plymouth coupe. I noticed the crank and flywheel extends away from the block approximately 1/4” more than with the original 201. I should mention I intended to use the bell housing and original clutch. The problem is the flywheel Is essentially pushed back into the bell housing and ultimately crowds the throw-out bearing tight against the transmission. There isn’t any play and it’s very difficult to install the clutch fork. Suggestions?
  10. Andy you've accurately described the new style pump I inherited with a block Im rebuilding (230cc motor from a 1949 Dodge). My issue is I’d prefer to find replacement parts (like the bearing and shaft in my photo) for these pumps, but can’t identify the manufacturer or year they were built, and thus can’t determine if replacement parts are available. I’m not sure how long the pump(s) were in use as they came with the block along with numerous other misc. parts.. It seems I’d be better off just ordering a new water pump, but I wanted the challenge of trying to successfully rebuild one.
  11. Thanks so much for the detailed information. It seems both the water pumps I have Lying around are replacement pumps with the sealed bearing you described. If I understand you, there are no replacement bearings available for these pumps? It seems I don’t have the original style, so I think I’ll just send the kit back. Upon reading the manual, I was perhaps naive in thinking I could handle the rebuild (without the use of special tools) for the original water pump....
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