Plymouthy Adams

I agree, but knowing is there and should not be is enough to set me to the task of cleaning. And a million years from now it would still be nagging me to get it cleaned.

as it is on the other end of the same crankshaft as the damper and it's bolt, most mechanics would say yes....for ease of turn by hand at the damper or with use of wrench, remove the spark plugs.

from where I sit, does not bother me in the least....? but as you are now aware of grit and grease in an area that is not kosher, the manner you attend to this is strictly on you...clean it or ignore in....personally, I would clean it.

careful, could be like saying Beetlejuice too many times..?

If you plan to send these out, save some headache and let them source the kits, this manner, if the carb fails they cannot say you send kits that were not appropriate for the build. Will not say this or that shop will weasel out, but the buck gets passed in these cases daily and you left on the hook. Simple carb, why not do your own repair.

tell him you looking for the Phleagle valve for a 1961 Shopskotch corn planter...bet his friend could help with that.

And unlike we of today, bet he never complained, my father did not and while just a couple weeks from a commissioned officer in corp of cadets he suffered an injury, surgery did not go well on the knee, they put him out on a medical. I so far on this family limb have been the only one to retire from the military. Belated thanks for your father's service....thanks to all our veterans today, stay safe and have fun.

few veterans out and about yesterday at the swap meet....somewhere I have slept for a decade it seems...both my grandpas were in the trenches in France

if you have fabrication skills, tools, time, space and a bit of spare change, you are then only limited by your lack of imagination

we can tell the old folks here...they still seeing appointments of the car...

I'm waiting for the time I am asked, "you want fries with that"

them some awful clean bottles, can't even see them.....?

Unless you are installing this distributor in conjunction with the install of a performance cam, there is no change in the timing of the distributor in regard of stock degrees and relationship to TDC. Some data is missing from your build or you forgot to capture the puff and flash of the smoke and mirror placed in the box by the seller and lost when you opened it. OR you are confusing the total mechanical advance of the distributor with initial timing which at this point I have to ask what is going to your response when you rev and then add the total vacuum advance into the equation. 18 degrees is not right for stock timing for the stock cam in your car and will give you much grief if you try to establish initial timing at this spec. 18 total degree of mechanical advance however sound dead on for the application. Where did you get this distributor, what documentation came with it and could you share that data sheet with the forum...

The cops would just think you gesturing.....HAVE ONE ON ME FELLOWS!!!! Snow is a four letter word you know and this is supposed to be a family site.

keep it stock keep it running....the higher rpm and lower speeds are relevant more to gearing than HP/torque limitations. Based your changes in gearing on terrain of travel area. Many are happy with rear gearing changes, many opt for factory style OD or other transmissions with OD incorporated. Based on how much change you wish to do to other segments of the car if this will or will not work for you. If concours is important to you.....apply none of the above.

even 180 out the key movement is still the same...only the orientation of the key change

the harder you work the more heat you will have......incentive to get things done....lol I do not have harsh winters here but it does drop a few times into the high teens. I have been working a bit on prepping things for winter work moving inside some of the projected task and mainly my work table I work from in the back yard and are now in an open barn bay with good lighting. Now is the time to get it done before getting caught flat footed. Got a message from a Canadian this weekend, snow and car would not start at 12 degrees...he procrastinated a bit too long......! Now trying to get the car indoors.

you staying busy and making good progress...that is always a plus. It is the attention to little details that pay off in looks in the big picture. After a few days off with a sore knee, am back at it this weekend and making good gains also...I am miserable when I can't be goofing off in the yard or shop.

while the /6 was a formidable engine, it is not without issues due to length. Secondly, you still dating your upgrade with an engine out of productions for 3+ decades. For the time trouble and cost, would not consider it these days, but then that is my opinion only. Got to look at OTC if you on the road. Tows and awaiting parts at a hotel can add up.

many stores still have the catalogs on paper, they just never put them out and only if you are well known to the counter person will they when asked get the book out for you but you have to almost be specific what product book you want to begin with as they will not know the product line. That is why most all folks like we here on the forum do our own research before going to the counter even knowing up front that the computer and counter jerks will be of little use. It is enough problem working a modern car, more so when an older classic and then extreme difficulties when you homogenize your own build from this or that as a retrofit. Our one Advance store has a commercial counter that is separate from the front walk-up counters and these books are there in abundance. If you are fortunate enough to have a commercial counter these guys are a bit more in tune to your needs. The commercial counter in this case will also order in parts from online wrecking yard also. This store has me listed with a commercial account where unlike the front counter or phone call I do not need to pay before ordering. I like that about Oreilly's, never have to pay upfront there and with the younger folks at the counter at the other store, I have taken majority of my business to the big O' and one more thing in their favor, most of their online parts list specifications which is a plus for the folks who do their own builds.

Personally, I thought this had been done so so long ago on the technical pages. This comes up so very often for stock shocks across the counter availability. The next shock issue is when a member unties the upper and lower a-arms and goes to the frame....but without a template of specific locations and style of the upper hanger once taken to the frame....that would be a hard one to pin down as so many folks do so many different approaches. I see Rich just submitted a Monroe reference page, thanks for that, hope it does help someone down the road.

I did look in the reference section and am surprised that after all these years the info was not archived there for people searching this out....many also do not even want to do a search though it is not a hard task given the forum is basically user friendly. Maybe GTK would incorporate this info in the reference section. Off the top of my head I do not recall either the Monroe or Gabriel air shock number but for sure...also searchable if one looks.....just pinged the forum, Monroe by direct application chart for the rear shocks are MA727

if having one is good, we all know that two would be better. If you plan to keep this pup, frame cost is right, and you have room to store it protected...go for it now while available.

I am happy to see julianos moved away from the silly assed washers they used to push as 'adquate' backing for old tired metal compromised by surface rust on each side of the panel.

There is no undercut for the normal corrosion of the head and fastener and while the bolt is not likely to corrode...the head will continue its corrosion