Plymouthy Adams

yes they both reset when cooled after tripping....jumper power to one side, put a 30 amp load on the other, the one that does not open up is the 30 amp load...the 8 amp should open real quick like.....

tread carefully here as the main thing folks overlook in performance cam installs is that the power on tap at the speeds the engine will see on the street causes for a loss of actual HP on tap at these speeds over stock, so for street use, many often lose. Now driving like you stole it, holding gears longer and keeping the engine in the upper RPM you now will see and feel the addition power. The trade off is not worth it if you do not push the engine....cam change is all about your intended use of the engine...at what levels will you be using the vehicle.....however go radical with the changes and lose all around, moderate change will net you some improvements on the upper end performance and still allow street use without harsh idle and low speed lugging.

I see you have now successfully placed the decimal point.....

first, ensure your tester is up to the task and not with issues due to older components in its construction or losses/gains in test leads and connections.....comparing your older unit with a newer unit that is so commonly available or perhaps one owned by a friend will go a long way in the trust department. Without some known standards to bounce across your is likely just a guess.

while the spec is not in the book specifically the value is typically in the .18 to .27 uF for many condensers......if it is any help the book does call for .25uF for a 1961 slant 6...

Mk1 Mod II, cut another 5 3/4 inches off the top of the uprights of the above picture work stand which is a modified clothes rack....more comfortable work height and this places it so much easier for me to see the primer finish after i block and squeegee the primer.....staying busy, it is staying wet and rainy

I have repaired a number of filler tubes and most are steel....(two tubes repaired this year alone) galvanized in the day or modern may be aluminized coating and my 48 with the retrofit zero emissions is stainless....the risk at the pump is not metal spark but spark by static discharge.....remember, if you can hear the static discharge...that is approximately a minimum of 6000 volts.

surely your purchases came with some sort of instructions.....if not from Speedway, maybe the model name and number off the units themselves will provide some information via an internet search....

as a FIY for anyone using a fiber style washer/gasket/seal for these to seal up quick and easy, soak the fiber in kerosene....it is the recommended procedure. It works, this I can assure you...(this tip was found on the SU website as they use these in numerous applications)

led bulbs for this are available for plug and play 6 or 12 VDC....you will likely need a ballast for the t/s to function or at minimum an electronic flasher.....many cars today have electronic flashers stock and easy to glean at a local wrecking yard or order from you favorite friendly but may have to have deeper pockets. If you are not familiar with automotive wiring you need to do a bit of research and read a few white papers, nothing hard at all about it, read a bit to get up to speed.....tons of information already for you to read without writing another here.

it is not huge....just a tad bulky for the wheeled pallet it is on to go over grass well.....can put on the modified boat trailer but now I have to lift it a bit....don't want to sit it on the regular trailer, side rails and such...and again don't want it resting on the primed surfaces....will work it out...even if I have to lift it with the gantry crane. Most of this depends on if I have another set of hands.

mums is the grille master here, I am the master check writer at the grocery store.....I buy it, I drag it home, I carry it in and often help with putting it away and sure do my part putting it away when cooked. We going Brats, burgers and dogs....all the fixings....hope everyone has made plans and they all go off without a hitch...my total involvement will be the desert, I laid out some fruit I put away off our trees earlier and will make a cobbler.....actually two of them....enjoy the 4th....if you in my area...serve you a dog or so and you can help carry the van cargo box to the work bay outside the paint booth....HEY, very little is free these days!!!! ???

after repairing and cleaning my goggles I did the task at hand and decided to eliminate a hole for the aerial. I never listen to radio so no need for one...had it been originally drilled correct place I would have kept it in play. It was about 7 inches too far forward. I can hide one and likely what I may do. Glad to have processed this as I believe this is the last of the proposed and known welding to be done on this vehicle. shape and jigged a plug, heat sinking wet rags to check against warping held with magnet, full perimeter weld, little grinding, skimmed and primed....

let a rabid dog sleep...............!!!!

you do realize that the top cap to the right and the tube to drain says this is not a pressurized system....its still going puke if needed...as many state, the secret to the early non pressurized cars is finding the sweet spot where expansion happens without burping....

good on you, finding a rust free pan in a car of that age is a remarkable find...

your touching up is shifting the line in the sand....most all this stuff takes a bit more time than we account for in the beginning....often finding what we need to work with is more involved than the actual work. Just say thanks you had metal to convert and apply paint to. ?

Put a LUK in the Morris...not driven it yet but the parts were all first class on arrival.

I am with Donald, the green banner is annoying....should be an off/on toggle switch if you wish to participate in the bean count. I don't need the reminder e-mail either.

the town sedans are unique and far and few between...we can go a bit higher on the Custom line with Special word attached given your dash knobs are black and not tan. If tan, standard dress, if black, higher dress and often has electric fuel cap release, parking brake light, reverse light and few other stock features that I fail to recall at this moment. I have a 47 Town Sedan Special and a 41 Town Sedan....hard to pin down production data but think it was approx. 16000 per annum.

actually this is the tubing out of one of those compact water hoses...they do good till frayed then they get an aneurism. Salvaged the inner liner and it has paid dividends. Maybe you have one of these hoses that have seen better days.

the dash on the left side was modified to accept the Dakota cluster...the radio and ashtray area modified for AC vents and a remote stereo display only Very thin..! The glove box modified for the AC but did lock out the passenger air bag. Dakota column with active air bag, pedals, console all in place as are the bucket seats and the seat belts, special panel for the AC/HTR control panel. The passenger compartment light went to the trunk. Long story short everything Dakota is on the car but the Dak wipers and the Dak radiator....suggest Griffin for unobstructive air flow of original rad support....again each builder has their own objectives and how to get there. Is it doable, by all means...but forewarned, you will need a large laydown area for the task. Doing body to frame swap, never have done that but have a number of Dakota subframe jobs to my credit. The Dakota frame has the same center line as that of my 48.....but the suspension in the front by A-arm design has a 3/4 inch lower stance. Rakes out nicely. I have a nice sideswiped Dakota V8 with floor shift standard tranny but reserved for one of the 62 Dodge Darts.

I cannot imagine the tranny bolted to the cab mine is a 5 speed on the floor.......automatic, anyone's guess...this engine pic is right before I put the front sheet metal back on....but will give you a clue....you will notice the electrical rerouted as needed and the ABS brakes tucked back inside the body and under the power booster...the AC line got one slight notch for clearing the right inner fender....the air cleaner box will not fit stock...suggest a mod similar and not ever fight the issue.

I subframe just the front with the Dakota....to me, that was the easiest way to go..... your go-mobile do what you wish.....mine drives like new money and I love all the accessories that were Dakota....especially the AC this time of year.

if bolt broken off in cast iron, blind or through hole, blow the hole with oxygen/acetylene torch....