Plymouthy Adams

termites sold separately....!

a 6 volt coil is a 12 volt coil to be used with an external resistor. You can ohm your primary and secondary taps for continuity, will show if you have an open or a short and proper ratio primary to secondary.

it is cashews that are caustic

you can open a classified wanted ad, no cost...expect shipping will be costly. Even around these parts there are so few yards to pick from. You would do well to have an interchange book but usually these are for main mechanical parts, as lots of parts carry over year to year. However, I hate to say it, but likely E-bay will be you better choice but will not rule out the success of finding a person parting out a body by placing an ad here. Good luck, having a few European cars, I know what it's like coming up empty handed on a parts quest. While it may be your intent to want to keep it stock, never rule out an upgrade from a common at hand donor car in your area.

that story confirms that John can run much faster than Bob...!

Greg, the A engine as the family that your Bugeye was powered was licensed to Japan (Datsun) for production. Unlike the Brits who left well enough alone struggling with their own war debt and decline the R&D and tooling costs, the folks over at Datsun kept investing in tooling and running upgrades of the basic engine to the point that were now so different they were basically a new design. I have installed this new and improved larger cc A from Datsun in place of the smaller Brit A engine it came with. All my mods for this vehicle I designed and built the cross member to fit in the original capture nut frame holes so retro back to the Brit is a bolt for bolt task as is the clutch linkage a simple unbolt the now master cylinder that feeds the slave cylinder. I also utilized the beefier L series 5 speed tranny that was for a short interim modified by Datsun to fit the A engine. This is RHD venicle and this 63 series allows a perfect alignment for the cluch mechanically though I did go hydraulic setup...this tranny will hold up to turbo/supercharging and such HP increases you can do to their improved A engines also. As for the Fiat, best I saw was pre war association and did not say they built in cooperation with but design was based on the Fiat, this was Mitsubishi.

given two years run.....5 days a week times 104 weeks and divide this into the 1300 estimated production....2.5 cars a day avg.

I look at these in the same light cousin Eddie viewed the plate in his head....not so sure he want to put much trust in a piece of government plastic.... While the rating for these I am sure are spot on....that is OPTIMUN conditions....little off in either direction could seriously weaken the overall effectiveness of the design. Good you chunking this....to prevent some guy from grabbing them for use from your trash, suggest they be cut in half if possible. The structure on the one has been fractured for sure.

that was pointed out early, I think one reader suggested Ma Mopar could have supplied new chassis for his adventure....but am sure this busted the bottom end and blew away the total 'repurpose' of his build. While I will never discount the functionality of the Powell, I will never say it is a sharp looker either. I always thought the UTEs of from down under very practical in general, but they ugly as sin also. Each their own, plenty of samples for everyone, I will stick with the basic concept of a van.

taking the time from most all the daily activities of the 'must be done' often leaves precious little time for the 'want to do' for ourselves. Couple this with anyone who is still doing the 9-5, conducting routine business during NORMAL operating hours and if you add kids and school and other activities...all the time you have left for the old car is writing the check to pay the insurance. Hats off if you get the time to drive them often. I still find I prefer the building of the beast part of the hobby.

likely recycled and probably the container for the pork and beans you had for supper one evening ?

could be worse I suppose, the tail gate could have been embossed: P O W E L L I can applaud the creation of the donor parts into a working unit, I cannot excuse the lack of body work or even real paint on the cycle fuel tank...but then...that is just me, come on folks, reach for the higher limb once in a while

reminds me, I need to see when I had my last tetanus shot.

while I have 25 foreign cars, none look quite like that.....but to honor Merle's request, I will not search it out either.

Gee Thanks Merle...!!!

rubber trees could not be good for replenishing oxygen..?..........I banish myself to the shop for another hour or so of blocking out primer before I award myself another rest and cool down break.

thank you for not posting a picture of the UGLIEST TRUCK EVER MADE.....

if I were to guess, would put it in the FIAT family

per the book, the caster is adjusted with shims between the springs and the axle center....but camber is not recommended fix by bending per the manual. Of course advancements in frame machines have come a long way and would not rule bending out as at least a first try before seeking replacement axle . Either way repair or replace, you have to be able to read these angles to determine the amount out of tolerance. I also would not cast any real money for a used axle with one cannot verify prior to install for same reason as the problem one is trying correct, used item with possible damage. The book further states that the axle center bend is suspect along with the possible damage to the steering knuckle. 1937-38 Plymouth (Rigid, Reverse Elliot type) Camber 0 to +3/4 with 1/4 preferred. Caster 1 to 3 with 2 preferred. Toe 1/32 inch kingpin angle...4 1/2 to 5 1/2 (1936: 9-10 on kingpin angle but same as 37-38 otherwise)

there is a pictured section of the repair manual, front suspension, that shows the tire wear patters with cause and correction. As an aside, there are many inexpensive quick check caster camber gauges on the market. A must if you plan to do this yourself.

yeah, its stock, but stock to what....lol

shipping these days is a roll of the dice. My last order was shipped in two packages as the weight would have been above the FedEx limit for driver if one unit. I was only advised of the single shipping number, there was two. They delivered the first half and sent me a message to the fact. Said delivered at the garage door, well I was working at the garage door all day and if delivered, could well have put in my back pocket. FedEx office and customer service was the pits. I checked the other houses on my street, nope. Next morning there was the two tires on my steps, my neighbor on another street dropped them by. The next day I got the other two tires but not before my neighbor told the driver he was on the wrong street again. Still, Fed Ex calls and says they have no clue where the order was delivered or when it would be located. I left them it as it was, they deserve a lesson in Tracking 101

yes, ethanol has made a lot of issue come to the forefront on our old beasts. Some suppliers address this and supply parts for the upgrade. But there is hardly a week go by here that some poor soul has not started a thread to the failing mechanical fuel pumps. Personally I have never had one of these failed units in hand by the obvious statement above, the electric pump is my full bowl of soup. If out and about, an electric pump is near to hand at most parts stores and the ride home on the flat top less of a worry in the back of your mind. If running 6 volt, a spare electric is very affordable and cheap insurance in the 'kit' many I hope do have in their trunks. Many of the older style pumps say AC, Purolator, Carter etc physical size and often crude mounting makes them a bulk item even given you could find kits. How many vehices made today would have a mechanical pump...things change for a reason.

guess there is a good reason for striving to keep the mechanical pump, none come to mind at the moment.....proper made electric fuel pumps are worry free, long lasting cost effective and just so easy to swap out IF you did have an issue. IF I thought I needed the pump to be part of the original look, remove the lever and block that bad boy off.

per the book, arc welding the factory recommended weld process... depending on 2 or 4 door, one of the mounts is bolted and it's position on the frame dictated by the door count. Rivets elsewhere.