Plymouthy Adams

many times these pld hinge will bind....before trying to force it close at the front hood opening and stressing the hood front to rear...walk to the hinge mount at the hood and light press down and maybe a tad to the rear as they normally close in said manner...lube the pivots point once again and exercise the hood and work this in and in the same token let the interference fit of the hinge and pivot self clean as it lubricated.

per my experience you are upside down...with the help of another set of hands, the inner fender liner removed....a lever, s hooks, chain and Bob's your uncle.

that is just a bit above and beyond to transport a single chicken to the market.

then I would suspect that the operational parameters are set by the aftermarket maker/supplier and is best answered by them.

I hear you Sniper and I may well be in error to assume retrofit and my response as correct may be wrong for his application.....I did not assume aftermarket as that is generally offered with its own sender and most follow the SW system requirements. Being a 'blender' of this and that, I assumed and probably wrongly, he was mixing old with newer.

More on point but still a step beyond most seating in the old Plymouth, my custom build also got factory 3 point belts that I installed from the donor vehicle that is 95% of the components used to make if full operational. Again, none of this is all that hard or involved, I still suggest a walk in the wrecking yard if possible and you may find a system that is primo for retrofit.

depends on the era of the vehicle, who made the vehicle when the industry first went to 12 volts, the ignition systems and most gauges were not changed and their movement and electrical requirement stayed the same but the now 12 volts driving them were reduced by the application of the CVR which is a constant voltage regulator. Dropping resistors for coils. By this time the ole mopar two wire was long gone and so retrofitting to this is not that much a deal. Lose the CVR given the donor is using this. Match the gauge and components operation requirement, sender/gauge. You can mix and match makes and models given you work with the requirements of each. Today in the little Brit car I am building, it uses the CVR and stock fuel gage and its sender in 20-220 and looking about I installed an older Jeep tank (new repop 15 gallon verse factory 6.inadequate) and modified the mounting base and added third generation Dakota ceramic sender. Only thing I was not happy with was not finding a ceramic compatible resistor block with low fuel circuit for that reminder light we all like today. The modern devices has ohm ranges into the 1Kplus these days.

I am working on a small Brit car. while it was originally set up for 3 point, their supplied non-retractable SLOP belts just was not anywhere close to my idea of belts. Their carpet was not sewn with darts for fitting the tunnel so I also cut and sewed my own. I found in the wrecking yard a set of modern 3 point that are not only retractable, but aesthetically pleasing. I flipped the center buckles 180 for the purpose of having the angle ready at hand for buckling and not be on the floor. It also worked great as I wire the seat belt light into the console I made as a reminder to buckle up (Volvo indicator) All in having fun building the way you wish and if you can visit a local yard to check on what is available, you will find great units at often great prices. These cost me 10.00 for the set of two including hardware and the yard manager helped me remove them too boot. Best of luck to you on you quest for belts.

As was written on another forum just this week there is no state requiring seatbelts in a classic not originally equipped till date 1964. However when it comes to minors riding in the car, this no longer applies as child seats are mandated. Also, if you install, you are required to use these seatbelts. Again however check your local statute.

even since as a wee lad I have had it stressed many time.....90% of automotive electrical is poor grounds....poor ole Lucas catches hang daily as he ends up in time not being properly grounded. Case in point is the MANY wooden dashes and daisy chain grounds....wood get moist, dried etc etc. wood shrinks, the ground get flakey and somewhere in the most unlikely place to get your hand and a wrench is the faulty connection. Now when the community gathers and elects to change the street you live on Tourette Drive, you still doing pretty well.

your wiring schematic is invaluable to you especially given you did not disassemble the car and kept assembly notes. Further, for help here, a picture of the wires showing their approximate location on the body would be helpful if you looking for help from an owner with similar car. Hard to guess from you description these wires and their location.

is this a so called 'smart' charger failing to turn on because the threshold voltage of the battery reserve is too low? See if you can parallel it with another good battery if it will turn on the charger if this is the case.

he will upgrade...but chassis swap not likely....

For the most part he has....the build is his...he does a few things differently than the old man...I advise only when asked....and then it is often not what he wants to hear...lol The only rust that is not just a bit of surface rust in the drivers floor pan, likely I will do that fix before he carries it to his place. This is just what I saw in my walk around of the vehicle. Could be more but really not in the outer body...excellent bones as they say. Poly block 318 with 4 speed floor shift, hydraulic clutch. Though it looks like a 64, first couple months in 65 was carry over till the new body style came out. Thanks for the inquiry

I just snagged this one a couple weeks because my son wanted it so took it on trade.....he will build this to what he wants...the ole man just did the locating and arranged delivery. There is always a bit of excitement in a new find.....congrats....you going to have fun.

I do like seeing the truck in as found condition....but I like to see them protected for the future at the same...the work in progress thing for me...

looks like Patina fell out of the bed....she not in the cab either.....?

while out and about yesterday, big Chrylser with straight 8 on the trailer at a shop ready for the return to the customer....stopped and chatted a bit. Another was a 68 Chrlser convertible taking advantage of the better weather cruising with top down....I was in the 48 Plymouth and cruising with the AC on....lol Did see a VW bus on the road toward my place and all he was doing was backing up traffic trying to pull the slight grade of the Elkolachian mountains. Hope all have had a fun and or productive weekend, maybe both.....!!

your absence will speak volumes given they do not have the constant rotation of counter people most stores have these day where as in that case none know you so your business will not be missed. No mom or pop runs stores in this neck of the woods, been decades since I have seen one. PS just returned from getting the parts ordered in, all present and accounted for and I took the '48 out for a run. Did not realize how long it had been parked I have been so busy on two other builds.

Will find out tomorrow if favorite store or not....just called and was told my parts will be there by 11AM to do the brakes on the 1990 Dodge B250 Barista van...

you can shop the movie house parking lot if you know you can get the part off before the movie is over......it's a joke guys, laugh a little. As most parts are now from just a handful of offshore makers...price is often the deciding factor on where I buy. I do have an account at Advance for ordering in parts not in stock and NOT have to stop what I am doing to pay for the order in advance. I get the same service from O'Reilly's. I do not do much at AutoZone as they have no location as near me to the others. Rock has some nice prices, if as Sniper says time will allow, the only down side to them is the return is complicated and ties your hand for finishing a job...whereas the few dollars more for a local seller and a not quite up to par part is handled very quickly....that of course means a lot to me when time is not on my side.

you know what you say is rather much the truth. After I retired I was invited back for the cookout and other festivities. Softball was part of that....I got a decent hit when at bat and then the realization, I had forgot how to run....few seconds later I was off and running but it sure felt strange.

at first I was thinking 29 degrees....good outing it appears.

If my recollection is correct, the division bar is the same as the D24..

nothing at all wrong with the build, roll your own, go with the tried and true....but answering the man in the manner he pointed out...BUDGET seems majority on the forums regardless view this as lowest amount of effort and money....same money with effort..save effort with money....define this first....