Plymouthy Adams

these were typically a commercial vehicle in the UK....over there they companies were logo printed on these panels for whatever company using them. There were operated by the utility companies by the thousands....the interior had a variety of production shelfs and storage offered. They had ladder storage and the what not for the exterior. This was to my understanding started out non commercial unit. The cargo box on it now was however from a commercial unit and had the damage on the roof panels as proof. Continues to be a fun build, I am studying the manner of floor insert I will install now. They are always two pieces. The rear 32 x 22 panel lifts for service to the fuel tank if needed. Different built all around.

Hey Dave, couple more raised panels

can't think of anything at the moment

stick with it, it will prove worth it in the long run...I am getting down to the task that hopefully don't draw out days and weeks now per item.

Good deal, owning one of these I think is special, they were very popular down under and a hen's tooth in the US, the guy I got this from took it apart over 10 years ago and he was one of the extra sets of hands helping lift the box onto the cab and chassis Sunday. I think he was excited as I to see it bolted together. The original box was as yours, the large side windows and the larger glass rear doors and flimsy shell full of rust that he just junked. This is a 1969 model and this box was bought after he took it apart so he had never seen it without the large side glasses. I think he said the box was from New Jersey and said he expected more problems going on as it was not from this cab and chassis. I have a B210 A14 engine out of Florida and the more robust 63A five speed. I also found and installed a 3.7 differential and it now has disc brakes in the front and I did my own rendition of a clutch master and slave. Plenty of other upgrades and changes that does not change its basic appearance. I have the wider 8 CWT rims and will run a bit wider tire. It continues to be a fun project.

and is also the lug wrench......I do not have the Shelley jack for this little LCV. I made a cradle and fixed clips to stow a donor scissors jack and crank. So technically the original crank would be but eye candy.

Thanks.....it has been a journey and well, lots yet to go on the beast. Pete....what year Morris van do you have, is it a Minor also? This pic is for you and by the way this van came out of NZ and was a CKD....twice...once in NZ and again when I got it, was on pallets and stuffed in boxes.

met a major mile marker today setting the carbo box onto the cab and chassis and bolting them together....not heavy, but bulky....person at each corner...set within an inch....inserting alignment pins and then shift it against the seal....fitted the bolts...about 1 1/2 hours with all the bolts

basically the up and down play of the tube and gear is seen when the weight is off the wheels and you turn the suspension by the tires. You will see this rise and fall in the steering wheel and is part of your overall 'slop' if you wish to refer to it as that as the tube must be against the upper or lower stops. (Shim as needed) You can feel this play up and down with the steering wheel AFTER the cross shaft is removed. This is covered in the repair manual but the earlier books do not have as much detail. You wish to address the play in the tube and worm by shimming properly as this is the only way to remove this play. Excessive play will be attributed to advance wear and adjustment is not always effective in removing it all but will address some slop. Sometimes the tube and worm will require renewing.

just yesterday did a quick check of camber to ensure I am within adjusting range with the new rebuild suspension of this small vehicle.

The very same can be said of a stock car done in a botch corner cutting build....the coin rarely stands on its edge. Stock or mod....both can be nice....both can be horrible and most are average on both accounts.

I'm with Sam on this if your intentions are to keep the flathead and stock suspension. Get it road worthy and then take stock of what you have and compare to what you want, draw up a basic outline for how you plan to get there. As for specs...most cars built in 1941 would be barking today. The 41 Dodge bz cpe is a very sharp car be it stock or modified....

the steering unfortunately does get its most wear in the center as this is the position the wheel is in majority of its driving cycles. So you can try to adjust the worm but be aware that as you adjust for slop here, you will likely remove the necessary play on either side of center. Trade off so maybe only adjust a bit of the slop and not go for it all at this one point. Odds are you would be better served checking the end play first.

NO...but in the same light, you will need some of the very equipment on hand. You can rig turn plates easy enough...you will need a caster camber gauge. A method to check the front wheels parallel with the rear for thrust. Once this is established...centering the wheel and adjusting the tie rod ends is your final step for setting toe. If you do not do this type of work often enough, it will likely be a bit costly setting up for the this task. Therefore, an alignment shop should prove advantageous and given that king pin style front suspension long endured in the UK...your local shops should be able to quickly and correctly identify any issue and do the alignment. The specs I listed above should be all you need to give your mechanic/shop. Do not rule out wheel problems and or wheel bearing issues. You can do this testing at home...but you need to be able to lever the suspension parts due to spring preload to determine if any excessive play is in one side or the other or maybe both. Being a straight axle, do not overlook the condition of the spring eye bushings and shackle conditions.

while the switch is adequate when NEW....and serviceable after many years, the fact is, the brass plates inside are wearing and the thus the normal friction/tension on the contact is less these days and eventually like many here, you looking for a replacement switch one day. Thus many folks not only here but hobby wide find the fitting of a relay(s) and removing the higher current that does not like high resistance in worn contacts...voltage drops and dimmer lighting, you end up extending the life of the switch many more useful years on the average with a better more positive switch that is the electromagnetic contacts in the relay. Again, everyone can do as they wish, but there are legit reasons for some of these changes and why these relays are so prevalent in modern cars.

that is your call on one or two....many folks will power the dimmer switch through a relay controlled by the headlight switch as the wiring and dimmer switch can handle the current without problems....the dimmer switch is by design self cleaning.....

I run radials.....but I also run alloy.....lol Not for everyone, would never try to convince a person one way or the other........they just my preference....these suit my build with the overall size of the tire in width and height, 16's and 75 series. I have a bent engine and 5 speed on the floor also....

Many mopar wheels have 5 smaller holes between the mount holes for some of the dressing centers they had. You need only to enlarge one of these or drill a hole for the alignment pin between your lug holes. I would not suggest break of the pin as many folks do simply as it does support the weight of the tire and wheel assembly on install using the bolts....convert to studs...you can easily lose the pin.

you getting there......good that you have some jigs to position the pan on and do your work.

Steel wheels for this application from the car era disappeared from the market about 1989 with the last of the rear wheel drive cars. FWD tend to run a lot of positive offset that will, given they fit the drums in the front, (only one that I recall and it is alloy) likely cause for issues like the tie rods hitting the tires. You can as suggested get steelies in a variety of diameter, widths and offset. You will be giving up stock poverty caps in the process unless you also opt for the baby moons most have/offer optional with their wheels. I had zero problems with Diplomat/5th Ave wheels of RWD vehicles. Some Dakota early wheels were also 4 x 4.5 and were in 14 and 15 inch.

beauty is in the eye of the beholder....radials are no exception. On the older car...one cannot expect to see the more common wheel and tire of the day as the move that direction is for handling by means of lower profiles of the sidewall and associated larger diameter rims. Back in the original concept of the radial, tires were 83 and 80 series and I believe you will find the original X series Michelins were 80 series tires...so the look was correct except for maybe the tread pattern and initial lip of the side wall as the radial makes use of this patch for road contact in handling verse the flat faced bias and the look of the rigid edge look. So yes on many cars the tread and edge will look a bit out of place. Concede this to FarmerJon but with some reservation as in, if the technology made it to America back in that day, well, 50 model and up tires would have the correct look with the radial. Slightly behind the curve was our industry verse Europe.

sadly, this one has a visit from the local butcher shop it seem complicated with a severe case of mostus rustus. For the condition, that price is off the wall....but then, that is just myself and the value I see or should I say, do not see in the asking price.

I wished when looking I had save the actual paper I read...but I got there from the link.....I pop back and forth a lot for like you said, it does not take but a minute to see the bogus and hype from tests and facts in print.....sorry I let you down....

well, you not sifting through all the propaganda I guess.....there is seldom a one catch all issue paper...get out of it what you put into it....there were many links on that page that led to other links.....don't follow the bread crumbs, can't find the kitchen

in the first paragraph, in red letters.....click on that