Plymouthy Adams

I will add but one more comment to the folks entering this hobby or any hobby for that matter, but the accelerated cost in this hobby can get out of control quick and spiral downward and leave one feeling hostage. Price of parts is just a small part of the costs, you have shipping to consider. Receiving parts that are not up to parr in design and application. The aggravation of dealing with that and backing up as you search for another alternative will have you questioning is this worth it. IT IS WORTH IT but, if you are not a DIYer with the skill sets, time and space to work nor willing to read how things work, and embrace new needed skills to learn and put into place and instead farm this out, you are going to be upside down leaving the starting gate. However, as a DIYer and one that is proactive in chasing parts, constantly staying abreast of the changing industry, adapting and overcoming by learning and building confidence you cand do this, you can be very successful with your build. Stick around here a bit, you can research this forum for almost any phase or item of the intended build on your car and get guidance to move forward without breaking the bank or the car and most importantly, your resolve to see this through. Good luck, keep your chin up and prepare now to finish the race.

pay to play if you wish it stock, if you want to upgrade a bit axles and disc brakes can be had for little money tad of sweat equity....cost of living going up, change of living going down

many times modern replacement fits only in the external physical dimension and has little to do with original strength per application....seen this in many parts supplied today by currently offshore manufacturers. This will continue to be the case as standards decline or fall to the wayside altogether. Glad you caught the weakness.

e-bay search: Mopar rear axle brake backing plate bolt, e-bay will show you what is available...these have not changed much over the years. Look to the European Salisbury rear axle, they are the Dana of Europe. To be truthful, shaving/cutting a flat on a standard bolt will work just as well.

in you have no local parts places, odds are you will need to source online....e-bay search will show you what is available. If you have shops dealing with the older German or British cars, drop by and inquire from them, many of them get upgraded.

I agree, many retailers only know a part number, a few will know how they work. Sounds like you got a zealous agent getting commission on parts quantity sold. I could be wrong. YOU NEED to be most informed these days. Schematics, drawing and specifications are no longer part of an item description. IF you are a DIYer the lack of these specs make designing a system for your own adaptation challenging to say the least. You must know how it works before you can make it work is key to success. Read them white papers, some are hard to find, but often with a bit of search you will prevail.

the hand brake light as wired from the factory is not part of the braking system on that of the accessory light switched to ground when the lever is removed from the rest position.

such is the average business supplying parts these days....they made the immediate sale, they could care less if you are happy, if what they sold works and heaven forbid you question their 'knowledge' sorry you had this issue. I always recommend that one do some reading of a few white papers, does not take but a minute this way to know what article has got their 'stuff' in the right sock. Once up to speed and for the most part above parr of the average seller, you can procure what you need and be successful in the endeavor.

I would start with just unbolting the bezel and attack it with item in hand.....white painted back panel alone does wonders. But controlling light loss is the better fix.

I forgot to also mention that the lenses do not have reflectors as is common in today's cars and contributes to the poor lighting you describe. One can easily fabricate these to ensure more light exits the lens and not enter into the trunk of the vehicle.

the glass of the lens is more likely the issue than the bulb and wattage is wattage regardless of the voltage. You may find LED a bit more lumens but your next issue is going to be the flasher. Either you will load the system with a ballast for amperage draw for the flasher to work or even better, just upgrade to the electronic flasher. However, not sure the availability of the electronic flasher in 6 volt positive round your areas, but are available online

yes, but at the risk of leaking oil, is it worth it...sorry had to do the dig.....lol

as stated, one could, one should not...but that is my opinion based on inability to shut the fuel to the cylinder...we can unplug the spark plug. The check valve would have to be very well built...why compressor use reed valves to that end.....not worth the effort.

while a person could in an emergency connect with a well built check valve in place to use for compressed air, it is not a safe nor clean manner to get air due to the compressed fuel on combustion. I would not want a tire inflated with fuel laden air. The hole's sole purpose by design is to check TDC. Many engines in the past have been made to run on half the cylinders and compress with the other half...but fuel induction and spark was never part of the setup. Find a better liars bench..

necessity is the mother of invention; glad you overcome the problem and did not have to ruin a new seal. You deserve a coffee and a donut, sad part, you will have to pay for it yourself.......just life guy....

looking at the picture, while you cannot say HOW thick, it is obvious by the shadow of the base gasket it is thicker than the other other gaskets, not the slots in the gasket, no manner the position of install the vacuum will be applied to the base of the carb..

rather thin and thick are not really descriptive in any exact manner, just suffice it to say when mounted the gasket must have the slots and when tightened, will not compress and or distort so to allow the gasket to squish and block the vacuum.

inform him please the gasket has to be thick original style that is slotted for the vacuum source....else..you are not installing properly and cannot expect different results even with original carb....the gasket must be correct.

you quoted me wrong, you CAN block the intake....the statement was "be aware you cannot bock the vacuum source" and expect it to work" sounds like you are not near the car, not doing the work and only reporting what is told without personal observations on your own. and the manner of most gaskets is that the manifold source is present by the very design of the gasket that does ensure no matter how you place the gasket the port on the carb base will be open to the manifold vacuum source...left, right, top, or bottom. Now if you or your pa made the gasket without regard for the port...I have no clue Look at your own pictures. The outline of the original gasket is clear on the intake with the 4 open slots so no matter what position you place it the gasket will port manifold vacuum to the small hole in the base of your pictured carb. Without that, you will not operate the power piston to enrichen the mix.

good point, this was just discussed a bit recently also.....the Stromberg as is in the Dodge manual is not anywhere near as well written as the Plymouth book and the Carter....but it does have a vacuum piston so yes, be aware you cannot block the vacuum source.

if you having to choke the engine, (hand over throat of carb) then you have a restriction in your secondary system. Did this carb run good before? If you cannot answer that then maybe a rebuild of the original is in order as that SHOULD be the correct high speed jet.

The son and his wife surprised me with this gift....the grandson, wide open behind the wheel....

I had it from a good authority that these kids grew up to become lawyers and politicians...but I do like the spying comment also....you'll never get my tin foil hat...!

wheel looks spiffy Ed....going to Wally World maybe.....careful where you tie the pooch when packing.

specs is listed in the IGNITION section of the manual, dwell is expressed in cam degrees, timing is note near bottom. Vacuum and mechanical advance also listed. Did not see the RPM but Motors have some as low as 475, find your happy place.