Plymouthy Adams

even 180 out the key movement is still the same...only the orientation of the key change

the harder you work the more heat you will have......incentive to get things done....lol I do not have harsh winters here but it does drop a few times into the high teens. I have been working a bit on prepping things for winter work moving inside some of the projected task and mainly my work table I work from in the back yard and are now in an open barn bay with good lighting. Now is the time to get it done before getting caught flat footed. Got a message from a Canadian this weekend, snow and car would not start at 12 degrees...he procrastinated a bit too long......! Now trying to get the car indoors.

you staying busy and making good progress...that is always a plus. It is the attention to little details that pay off in looks in the big picture. After a few days off with a sore knee, am back at it this weekend and making good gains also...I am miserable when I can't be goofing off in the yard or shop.

while the /6 was a formidable engine, it is not without issues due to length. Secondly, you still dating your upgrade with an engine out of productions for 3+ decades. For the time trouble and cost, would not consider it these days, but then that is my opinion only. Got to look at OTC if you on the road. Tows and awaiting parts at a hotel can add up.

many stores still have the catalogs on paper, they just never put them out and only if you are well known to the counter person will they when asked get the book out for you but you have to almost be specific what product book you want to begin with as they will not know the product line. That is why most all folks like we here on the forum do our own research before going to the counter even knowing up front that the computer and counter jerks will be of little use. It is enough problem working a modern car, more so when an older classic and then extreme difficulties when you homogenize your own build from this or that as a retrofit. Our one Advance store has a commercial counter that is separate from the front walk-up counters and these books are there in abundance. If you are fortunate enough to have a commercial counter these guys are a bit more in tune to your needs. The commercial counter in this case will also order in parts from online wrecking yard also. This store has me listed with a commercial account where unlike the front counter or phone call I do not need to pay before ordering. I like that about Oreilly's, never have to pay upfront there and with the younger folks at the counter at the other store, I have taken majority of my business to the big O' and one more thing in their favor, most of their online parts list specifications which is a plus for the folks who do their own builds.

Personally, I thought this had been done so so long ago on the technical pages. This comes up so very often for stock shocks across the counter availability. The next shock issue is when a member unties the upper and lower a-arms and goes to the frame....but without a template of specific locations and style of the upper hanger once taken to the frame....that would be a hard one to pin down as so many folks do so many different approaches. I see Rich just submitted a Monroe reference page, thanks for that, hope it does help someone down the road.

I did look in the reference section and am surprised that after all these years the info was not archived there for people searching this out....many also do not even want to do a search though it is not a hard task given the forum is basically user friendly. Maybe GTK would incorporate this info in the reference section. Off the top of my head I do not recall either the Monroe or Gabriel air shock number but for sure...also searchable if one looks.....just pinged the forum, Monroe by direct application chart for the rear shocks are MA727

if having one is good, we all know that two would be better. If you plan to keep this pup, frame cost is right, and you have room to store it protected...go for it now while available.

I am happy to see julianos moved away from the silly assed washers they used to push as 'adquate' backing for old tired metal compromised by surface rust on each side of the panel.

There is no undercut for the normal corrosion of the head and fastener and while the bolt is not likely to corrode...the head will continue its corrosion

those shock numbers have been posted on here several times over the years.......along with the number for the air shocks if someone was interested.

Dodge and Plymouth are two different size bodies and frames for these years....not a bolt on....got fabrication skill...go for it as it is already a custom build...else, modify the Dodge doors as the work will be easier with the already fitting door on the Dodge to modify the fender sweep that extends into the door.....OR...find yourself a 41 Dodge and check it as the bulge was not existing at this time.

if you using a lower cost alkyd enamel, the age of the paint is very important as it is such a heavy solids formula. These can and do separate from the rosins and will result in a grainy texture.

man....can't hide money....!!!

Unique they were, but some things were meant to be surpassed......while novel at the time....I also know as an option its the cat's meow....but that is as far as I give it credence. That along with the 8 track and now the cassette is long since surpassed...heck, radio is a useless device unless it is Sirius. DVD's are going to go away in favor of USB and flash memory cards, and then that is today old school IF you have a smart phone.

The socket sets back in the day came with the specific socket for servicing the drag link.....

For Sidevalvepete.....a salute to your country as this is the origins of the vehicle......(tag not assigned to this car sadly)

likely in this model car there is not really a position to stow or display the original jack and truthfully, they are a bit of a danger using especially beside the road and on we or uneven terrain even if they mechanically sound and fit. I see the want to have one for display maybe but strongly suggest a small trolley jack or at minimum a scissor jack for the safety aspect. Either a trolley and or a scissor jack will fit into a period correct style piece of luggage in the trunk that always look right at home when displaying the car at a cruise in.

It has been at the house now 4 years. I have as always, just too many things going on at one time. Just try to stay busy when not doing yard work and other house related upkeep. As Rocky would way, now here's something you're sure to like....(how it was carried home. on pallets and in boxes, you will love the frame)

the engine is upgraded from a 1100 to a 1400, dropped the 4 speed non sync'ed first gear for full sync and OD drive 5 speed. Changed the rear gear from a 4.55 to a 3.7 and added slightly wider rims for a better meat patch when driving. She has not been fired up yet.....The wheels are sand color with stainless caps with burgundy highlights in the recessed circle and M stamps and will have the stainless beauty rims. It should not have any problems with traffic and I also upgraded to disc brakes for the front. We got potential here....lol

Been kinda slow with lots going on about the place but it is taking shape.....

again, post a pic of the area these wires are dangling and maybe someone can help you, it is impossible to guess at the wires you mention. You need to add a tad more if you truly expect an answer for your query.

you would likely be better served just going to your favorite big box automotive store and see their limited stock of wire, you may get lucky. For myself, I usually glean my pieces from wiring harness of donor cars. I cut these out at the wrecking yard for cheap and they a huge asset when doing mods, upgrades and common repairs.

Sniper, I just did this last November and to put the Diplomat backing plates on you will have to do 5 mods for certain and likely another depending on the drum used. 1; split the hub and drum. The bolt pattern is NOT the same and as nonstop said, the seal retainer will need be used from the old backers, this is a destruct non return to stock upgrade. 2; cut the seal retainer from the old backer trying to match the diameter of the donor backer here for fit, this will be use to mark the new holes at the top of the donor backer...3; mark and drill donor backer to match the pattern. 4; you will need to trim the very top of the original axle flanges as they are quite tall and prevent the modern backer from sitting flush on the flange face. (see location of cylinder in pictures) 5; the hub will need the step for the original brake drum cut/removed to be flush to the diameter of the hub that is the centric locator for the wheel. The possible other mod is the drum as it sits flush drum to hub. The 74 drums I have here fit without dragging the backing plate if I recall but were damage beyond turning...the Diplomat(5th Ave) are made just a bit different with the larger cooling surface and I cut part of this bell so not to drag, .015 would have done the trick but wanted a better margin...you could shim the hub and drum but centric is you concern here and full seat is best, your call based on how yours may fit. I would not say one and done for all examples. Couple pics might help here...This was not at all an involved mod, just step by step process. NOTE: Group loaded the pictures they are out of order but you can readily see each step however. IF anyone wishes to save these pics I suggest do it now, my picture limit stays border line and unless my capacity is increased by GTK, I have to delete after a bit to maintain a buffer for posting pics. Subject vehicle shown is 47 P15 but these were done to be used on the 54.

that is the second Happy Thanksgiving I have received from our Canadian neighbors today