Plymouthy Adams

As was written on another forum just this week there is no state requiring seatbelts in a classic not originally equipped till date 1964. However when it comes to minors riding in the car, this no longer applies as child seats are mandated. Also, if you install, you are required to use these seatbelts. Again however check your local statute.

even since as a wee lad I have had it stressed many time.....90% of automotive electrical is poor grounds....poor ole Lucas catches hang daily as he ends up in time not being properly grounded. Case in point is the MANY wooden dashes and daisy chain grounds....wood get moist, dried etc etc. wood shrinks, the ground get flakey and somewhere in the most unlikely place to get your hand and a wrench is the faulty connection. Now when the community gathers and elects to change the street you live on Tourette Drive, you still doing pretty well.

your wiring schematic is invaluable to you especially given you did not disassemble the car and kept assembly notes. Further, for help here, a picture of the wires showing their approximate location on the body would be helpful if you looking for help from an owner with similar car. Hard to guess from you description these wires and their location.

is this a so called 'smart' charger failing to turn on because the threshold voltage of the battery reserve is too low? See if you can parallel it with another good battery if it will turn on the charger if this is the case.

he will upgrade...but chassis swap not likely....

For the most part he has....the build is his...he does a few things differently than the old man...I advise only when asked....and then it is often not what he wants to hear...lol The only rust that is not just a bit of surface rust in the drivers floor pan, likely I will do that fix before he carries it to his place. This is just what I saw in my walk around of the vehicle. Could be more but really not in the outer body...excellent bones as they say. Poly block 318 with 4 speed floor shift, hydraulic clutch. Though it looks like a 64, first couple months in 65 was carry over till the new body style came out. Thanks for the inquiry

I just snagged this one a couple weeks because my son wanted it so took it on trade.....he will build this to what he wants...the ole man just did the locating and arranged delivery. There is always a bit of excitement in a new find.....congrats....you going to have fun.

I do like seeing the truck in as found condition....but I like to see them protected for the future at the same...the work in progress thing for me...

looks like Patina fell out of the bed....she not in the cab either.....?

while out and about yesterday, big Chrylser with straight 8 on the trailer at a shop ready for the return to the customer....stopped and chatted a bit. Another was a 68 Chrlser convertible taking advantage of the better weather cruising with top down....I was in the 48 Plymouth and cruising with the AC on....lol Did see a VW bus on the road toward my place and all he was doing was backing up traffic trying to pull the slight grade of the Elkolachian mountains. Hope all have had a fun and or productive weekend, maybe both.....!!

your absence will speak volumes given they do not have the constant rotation of counter people most stores have these day where as in that case none know you so your business will not be missed. No mom or pop runs stores in this neck of the woods, been decades since I have seen one. PS just returned from getting the parts ordered in, all present and accounted for and I took the '48 out for a run. Did not realize how long it had been parked I have been so busy on two other builds.

Will find out tomorrow if favorite store or not....just called and was told my parts will be there by 11AM to do the brakes on the 1990 Dodge B250 Barista van...

you can shop the movie house parking lot if you know you can get the part off before the movie is over......it's a joke guys, laugh a little. As most parts are now from just a handful of offshore makers...price is often the deciding factor on where I buy. I do have an account at Advance for ordering in parts not in stock and NOT have to stop what I am doing to pay for the order in advance. I get the same service from O'Reilly's. I do not do much at AutoZone as they have no location as near me to the others. Rock has some nice prices, if as Sniper says time will allow, the only down side to them is the return is complicated and ties your hand for finishing a job...whereas the few dollars more for a local seller and a not quite up to par part is handled very quickly....that of course means a lot to me when time is not on my side.

you know what you say is rather much the truth. After I retired I was invited back for the cookout and other festivities. Softball was part of that....I got a decent hit when at bat and then the realization, I had forgot how to run....few seconds later I was off and running but it sure felt strange.

at first I was thinking 29 degrees....good outing it appears.

If my recollection is correct, the division bar is the same as the D24..

nothing at all wrong with the build, roll your own, go with the tried and true....but answering the man in the manner he pointed out...BUDGET seems majority on the forums regardless view this as lowest amount of effort and money....same money with effort..save effort with money....define this first....

I cannot recall an issue when I removed mine....am wondering if a PO may have used a sealer to retain these when fitting the seal and glass.

go with the TRW rack and pinion, disc brakes kit you just saved 2 grand or better....If you wanted power why did you opt for this slug? And even if the slug has curb appeal, a little research prior could have gone a long way. I am of the thought if you gotta ask how, the water is too deep.

I like seeing the rubber meets the roads mods put into place....

not just the tires Los, read again, it has been points and condenser and oil filter.....pedigree of the old and tired is quite important to some.

have to agree to term to visit uniroyal websire, they can have their site, I'm not that interested..

Los, as Sniper stated, along 2000 they went to the 4 digit code to correctly identify week and year and negate the guessing at decade....

most the door handles are affixed to the door exterior via two screws... My screws were stepped for the card thickness allowing the threads to end at the door shaft and just flush with the bottom of the card. Allowing you the choice of using if making new cards. I removed the allow cast handles and changed them to stainless steel units from another Mopar and CUT the shafts the proper length and then drilled and tapped them. You can alter this in any fashion that suits your build or whimsy.

some maker pre 2000 used only the last three digits of the series of letters/numbers after the DOT.....they read the first two as week of the year and the last digit the year.....they did not identify the decade on the average as most cars currently/continuously driven would not likely have tires 10+ years of age was their reasoning.