Plymouthy Adams

I like seeing the rubber meets the roads mods put into place....

not just the tires Los, read again, it has been points and condenser and oil filter.....pedigree of the old and tired is quite important to some.

have to agree to term to visit uniroyal websire, they can have their site, I'm not that interested..

Los, as Sniper stated, along 2000 they went to the 4 digit code to correctly identify week and year and negate the guessing at decade....

most the door handles are affixed to the door exterior via two screws... My screws were stepped for the card thickness allowing the threads to end at the door shaft and just flush with the bottom of the card. Allowing you the choice of using if making new cards. I removed the allow cast handles and changed them to stainless steel units from another Mopar and CUT the shafts the proper length and then drilled and tapped them. You can alter this in any fashion that suits your build or whimsy.

some maker pre 2000 used only the last three digits of the series of letters/numbers after the DOT.....they read the first two as week of the year and the last digit the year.....they did not identify the decade on the average as most cars currently/continuously driven would not likely have tires 10+ years of age was their reasoning.

I'm more concerned about the missing lugnuts....

its just a convertible, cut that sucker along the jugular.....prevent the slow death....lol

Being realistic, even with me being retired and all that, I cannot evade, escape or deny daily life events so I will say there is no way I can or could build the car I did in 90 days.....

I will say but one thing...the six is barely adequate for the job and less than for some applications like interstate running....the 4 banger is going to be such a disappointment. I know it is likely your choice because you already have it on hand to use. BUT the same work is involved basically on most swaps....I would recommend a more modern engine with a bend in the middle even over the dated and beloved /6. I kept mine Mopar..bent in the middle engine with all the modern features....you would not believe me when I said how cost effective this swap was. This car drives so sweet...and in the south, the AC is most welcome...5 speed floor shift

KIDS HAVING FUN...!!!!!

Maybe something like this? WWII willys MB ford GPW Rokon✅(A5987 X5) Tire Tube Valve Stem Protector QT5 jeep | eBay

Well, nothing against anyone here and would hate for folks to think I am slighting them...but I am not in the used car parts selling arena. The few parts I let go usually go to Europe as they do not have yards and such to kick through with these cars sitting about although they still have access to e-bay which I call an equal playing field for the proactive. Granted our sources are drying up annually also. I have mailed parts to a number of countries but even today with the cost of shipping and the snotty nosed customs folks and so called clearing scam agents. You learn quick who is kicking tires and who is seriously looking also. Waaaaaaaaaaaay too many tire kickers these days. Even the swap meets are drying up...space fees, higher gate and often paid parking driving the customers away. If this coming swap meet is anything like the last two...it is my final bid to market a few items.

some things actually work out for the best when reversed. I gleaned some attractive enclosed seat belts, 3 point for the current project. The center links lay low on the floor. As I am RHD and wanted to also incorporate a fasten seat belt light, courtesy a donor Volvo, flipping the center belts allowed them to lay just parallel with the seat cushions and raise to meet your stature. About to finish up the carpet and console install. I have surely put my sewing machine to the task here. Typical Brit lay in style carpet and next is securing them with snaps. There is zero back seat here and originally the rear panel never gets carpet. We having fun. Not many are into really tailoring their cars....I can so understand the purist aspect....but seems often they do not reciprocate in same manner to those that modify. Not all cars are suitable candidates for originality, and I purposely buy mine with engines missing etc. etc. so not to have regret to change.

this is ideal Ed if you were....Wrongway Peachfuzz....cable, couple pullies and a pull handle...you be set up again...remember three rights is a left....

per history on this forum, man joined and posted a parts request on open forum, no-no number one....he last signed in some 2 weeks later and would assume by then the part arrived and the forum was no longer needed as he has not signed in since July 26th OR pigeons ate his bread crumb trail back to this site. So sorry this guy flaked out on you. Trust, it's just a name on a bank.....

good you making headway on the truck....I got so little done today running around looking for material to work with. My local stores it seems has cut back so much on items they used to stock...it's a crap shoot when you drive to shop. Got what I needed but had to go to 3 different stores.

is this a one piece filter?

it is a product with phosphoric acid, alcohol wetting agent and a chromium content I cannot speak for. As for the % of phosphoric, 20% I can get 55% with wetting agent for 15.00 a gallon and I know that stuff work like a champ and so easy to use. I have had good results with Rustoleum products but again, there are other products for good price if you shake the bushes.

I did similar but I also recall that I had to trim a bit for the e-brake spanner to clear the now old seal retainer nut now relocated on the modern backing plate. There was a number of steps getting the upgrade in place and you will need the tools time and space to work these issues. It is not just a bolt on as trimming axle mount flange at the top is needed, changing the backing plate bolt patter on two of the 5 bolts, removing and reusing the original seal retainer. And many do not know the very other step of machining off the step that is a bit wider for the drum to centric align to the original hub. This can be lead to one or two fixes for the modern drum to fit, either a plate to space out the drum across the full face of the hub or the trimming of the backing plate. I had two style drums, finned and not finned, the finned sat about .030 deeper at the rear of the drum and would drag on the backing plate just a tad. The inner clearance was sufficient with both drums and not internal drag issues. I removed about 1/8 inch of the backing plate lip as it had plenty of sacrifical metal to yield to the mod and would not have to mess with aligning an intermediate positioned disc between the hub and the drum.

I did not either but other switches/knobs does.....that is why I could not see 25.00 for a 1.00 tool......I no longer have the start button in my P15 so could not say one way or the other.

get a cheepo screwdriver at the thrift store, pawn shop or flea market of the right blade width, cut a slot in the middle to straddle the shaft, wha-la instant positive drive removal tool....

was this 60 read on the car's amp meter or by a calibrated instrument?

Facts now in evidence......lol

yes you have a bulb base that is nutted and threads into the head....then you have the bulb gland nut (bit smaller) that screws into the bulb base. BE CAREFUL if you gaug is still a working unit as the bulb will rust fast to the base and often the result is the twist of the capillary tube to the point you will break the seal. Wrench sizes, can't say off the top of my head but common SAE. As the base nut is larger than the gland nut a common full set should suffice.