Plymouthy Adams

I decided to buy my last hand held meter VOM with these capabilities built in, dwell and tach multiple settings for/from 1 cyl and up

Nothing comes without a bit of work or investment of time to some degree. Looks like you got your raised beds up and growing. I have already eaten fresh from the garden this weekend. Not much but man is it coming on strong.

sound like me....waiting on parts at every turn....finding a source to order some parts is often more time consuming that the fix....and if you not waiting on a part....you modifying one to work for your special build......at least we having fun.....tell me I'm having fun.....!! (I am)

prelude to a frontal lobotomy, I never made it over the cuckoo's nest I have been lit up with ignition voltage my fair share....

I suspect you right but folks respected those bare terminals nonetheless......

back in the day...the plug wires end at the spark plug did not get rubber boots....folks in those day understood you touch them when running you get shocked...today you can tell people that but it seems they just don't understand what you saying till they get a couple good jolts....yessir, make your pants want to get up and dance...

thiese show up now and then on e-bay.....found this one at a swap meet for 5.00 bill...man did no know what it was nor did two other venders specializing is sale of old tools....

test these items...follow the book....are you using an ohm meter to test things......so many ignition threads and so few folks running tests, following the book or even trying to get up to speed reading a white paper on ignition. I am not harping just stating cold hard facts....

only if you do not want to be able to turn the ignition off....personally I would run it via the ignition switch....but if you are only TESTING...that will work....and what is a dizzy but the person working the car......? can't stand that term....lol

it appears you still 6 volt...wiring is direct to the coil.....the coil on these old beast could care less if positive or negative ground as long as you have it connected.....BUT as the car is normally positive ground and you have the battery sitting in negative ground...then voltage to the + side of the coil and negative to the distributor......

try not to submerge this beast at least below periscope level....get the military snorkel kit on that puppy...where we're going, we don't need a ferry....

novel enough I guess, tool for every job....long term storage of fluid, I think not being hygroscopic....but if you fill it and use it as needed may protect some carpet if so outfitted. Back in the day when every car that rolled up was frame mount master, a must for most service bays. Myself, I would be in and out and finished before I could remember where I put this device since using it last.....AND THAT'S THE TRUTH

Pennsylvania is the first to pop into my mind with the expiration date embossed....

is your screw too long and going through and shorting this to ground.....are you even using an ohm meter here....if not....you wasting your time and most everyone here trying to help

as an additional so many folks defeat the isolation on the points and when connecting actually are taking their lead direct to ground....ensure you are not doing this...one side of the points is voltage supply from the coil and the other side is direct bolted to ground...this is what makes it a switch via the cam on the distributor shaft.....use your VOM and if you do not have a VOM....you really should get one the HF <10.00 meter will do about anything you need to do checking your car and most all other items at home/shop.

you are grounded.....no voltage can be read....if points are open should read voltage and if not...your lead is going to ground...recheck your work... the 6 volt ignition is just a single wire circuit. it starts from the battery , ammeter, through the ignition switch, to the coil (you may common share at the horn relay) and then to the distributor where the points are nothing but a switch that turns the coil on and off...when the coil is turned off is where you get your secondary (high) voltage. Condenser is an arc suppressor and can be shorted...test this also. the secondary voltage for the plug is routed from the coil output tower to the input of the distributor cap where it is contacts the rotor button that then indexes it to the tower in the cap for the correct plug to be fired...

smoke'm if you gotte'm got many many miles on the US highways in C bodies......

close, right cubes 230, but the P26 is 1955.....swap should be about one for one

ah the big picture.....that helps...see the individual number now...

why it is referred to as an accelerator spring I have no clue...its function is to prevent acceleration without manual intervention and aids in deceleration.......throttle spring...now that is correct.....getting silly now...heading to the great outdoors to do some yard work...

I saw that...in reading it says you need a retainer and a nut for each reflector....retainer shown, no IPB number as also no nut number so again, without the footnote for the star in the part box....I would think but again, just my thinking, it is serviced NHA (next higher assembly) which is the reflector set of 4....... 854791

I said only P15 being flat....I know most of this model carried over from the pre war models...so this flat glass business couple may well apply to these....but I have none of them in my garage/barn to look at ....

if I recall correctly only the P15 business coupe rear glass is flat....their sedan and coupes were curved....and are my business coupe and both my sedan Dodges are curved....

having never seen these in group of four as pictured.....and use as required I would view this as a means to service these per the book AS NEEDED to indicate these may be 'carded' and removed and used individually. Unless these were poorly designed pop in an style and subject to loss or theft....being glass I would suspect very few were sold....

nice find.....I am in need of something similar and looked to the knobs for line locks on rods and or OD control as used on some later vehicles...but none looks near as trick and clean package as you have pictured...my application will not be for shifting or such but simply a momentary switch for controlling a bi-stable relay. Saw a fair looking knob at the swap meet but the guy would not quote a price....who are these people and why do you have it on the table if you have no price on it or know what you want...?