Plymouthy Adams

Thank you James..the wife does indulge my shop and hobbies..she knows where I am..and she also knows that these are investments that will pays us back in the long run...as I do not nor can anyone really do this stuff and claim his labor...it is a losing proposition that route...but it beats sitting around on the couch watching TV..I do not have surround sound, I do not have wide screen TV ..I do not have Hi-Def...I do not have premimum channels..but I do have over 400 movies so finding something to watch is never a prob...I have some here I have never seen yet... I guess it all boils down to whatever one is happy doing..my bud has the best of everything TV and is happy as a clam..he cannot see how ANYONE would want to buy an old car much less WORK on it...we do swap movies back and forth though...see twice for half the price...and DVD's at 3.00 a pop is cheaper than rental...buy them at the pawn shop..view them for less than the rental..keep them forever..never worry about a late fee... Charlie..let me know which route you go...I am busy tring to get a car on the road for the kid..my parts came in tonight so I go the freeze plugs in and the manifold and header back on...got to pick up a bit of 1/2 heater hose next..do the brakes and the clutch master/slave..this OD is supposed to engage electrically with full throttle applied..this will be a trip...put the hard top on for winter...

looks more like scags on a surfboard

Joe..it is a chunk of coin but from all the reports from satisfied customers, the George Asche OD is the only way to go...should last a lifetime with proper service and care over the years...you do not need the high dollar pre war tall second gear..stay stock ratio and all should be within reason with cost.

I'm guilty of the ":" Greg answered that pretty well..and I would also caution against going below 3.23 with stock gearing..actually the 3.55 should you go with stock OD would give a net drive of 2.48 gear ratio when you are figuring rpm per axle rotation is a multiplier of the gear ratio times the final gear ratio..where first gear of 2.90 times the stock 3.9 rear gear would be 11.31 first gear that is why first gear can snatch a 3000 lb car from stop to a quick roll.. third gear is normally 1 to 1 ratio and OD is an underdrive usually in the .68 to .72 range...yeild is about 30% reduction in RPM

Charlie..did you finally arrive at the direction you intend to go on your 'burb...? I ordered all new glass for my 'burb couple weeks ago...not in yet..will be regular glass for the windshield but the rest is oven tempered like todays sideglass..all will be green tinted..as the car willl be green thought that may be a nice touch..

you ought to just send that radio to me..get it out of your hair and therefore the issue of fit would be gone... Wish I had the answer..nice looking radio...would look good in my BzCp

Dwell can be determined with the meter attached, dist. cap off and points just snug so you can vary the gap while spinning the starter...the dwell will accurately be displayed on the meter. However I am sure some of you remember engines starting back in the hey day of the hi-po engine..tune up a hi-po 383 while engine is hot and that sucker will start and run while setting the dwell..cap or no cap..little diesel effect there...

Joe..couple things hre you want to keep in mind...the overall width flange to flange is the mounting surface on the axle faces...the measurement in backing plate to backing plate and the distance between the spring perch centers.. Know ahead what ratio you are looking for and know how to identify the axle in question in this manner...late models have tags on the axle cover bolt and also is on the engine compartment tag of trucks and vans..else it is on the build sheet but decoding is a must. The track of your car is 56 inches..this is also important. (center of tread one tire to center of tread opposite tire) My Suburban has a 8 1/4 Dakota, I have a 9 1/4 under the Clup Coupe and 8 3/4 under the 41 Bz Cp The Suburban is the only one that will be close to stock and the Dakota axle and wheels fit like a glove...I got the 2:94 ratio and will be using the 4 speed auto here..no biggy as I also have the V6 pushing it. You may opt for the 3:23 or 3:55..think a lot of the 4WD had 3:79 ratios...the early Dakota will also yield matching bolt pattern. The 5th Ave and Diplomats use very high ratio rear gears, double isolated springs. Spongy setup..use your original springs and spring mounts and weld to newly selected axle..when measureing for placement of the mounts...meausure correctly..some pumpkins are offset...unequal axle lengths. centering to the backing plates will work every time... Changing axles also brings up other probs...in using the Dakota I got smaller brakes..not what I wanted so I changed the backing plates from the 5th Ave..who's rear gear is 7 1/4 2:32 ratio but with the larger 2 1/4 10 inch brakes, they will bolt straight to the 8 1/4 Dakota gear.....take the entire backing plate and brake assy from one to the other.

I have been collecting these movies in an "as I find them basis"... Dirty Mary, Crazy Larry Vanishing Point Bullit Italian Job (original) Cobra American Graffiti... Mad Maxx Road Warrior Blues Brothers Blues Bro. 2000 Christine plus a few more goodies...Walter Matheau in "Charlie Varrick" where Joe Don Baker drives a big Chrysler with top end unlimited..

WW and the Dixie Dance Kings...Burt was at his best in that one..rob the stores and give cash to the little guy...always got a big head start on the law...

What happened to Dirty Mary, Crazy Larry? Must be old or something as I have a goodly portion of that list in my collection. One other movie with some great car scenes is "Fear is the Key"..Barry Newman again...have not been able to get that in a format for our region...

Your 49 Plymouth is the only year Plymouth had a narrow rear end..there is about a 2 7/16 to 2 15/16 more marrow

I know that Norm..its the same thing on a minature scale..just making a funny where a model cars needs a parts car...again..mirror image of the real thing.. I have models of the cars I own when I can find them and if affordable..however I do not spend any big bucks in this area...you eventually run out of room to put this stuff...I am out of room now with old cars...I put myself over the top in storage with the purchase of the Studebaker...I will play musical cars this weekend and move a smaller Triumph GT6 to another spot and allow the Stude to slid in home there...I moved the Spitfire that was in that smaller bay last Wednesday...one of the 6 cars I bought in a package..never messed with it till that night..was purring in about an hour...spent a bit of time on the engine electrical..PO had it pretty well dinked...only thing left is to put a dropping resistor back on the ignition and all should be well..got all the hydraulic kits (7) coming in and rear shoes and front pads, freeze plugs, gaskets...cheap little cars to work on..130.00 for all that...never driven one of these with an OD but this has one...might be fun..got new tires I removed from a Honda car given to me years ago..sold the car, kept the tires for the Triumphs..

Have seen that on more than one occasion..it "burns" me down pardon the pun..same reason to renew the cyrstal on the one at the house..I was lucky an have an original lens in very servicable condition and more than not will go back in the car.. did you get the hands off?

It was down right chilly here past couple eveings..slight frost on the car windshield..supposed to hit low 20's by Friday..not looking forward to that for sure..last evening though was nice till the sun set..then its like the freezer door was left open. I may have to shift my wagon to the right a bit and fire up the wood burner in the shop. Basically working small parts..something I can start and finish in an evening. Last night I did steering wheel for the Triumph..I know..but it was laying about and needed to get some attention and put aside.

its a sad sad day when you get a toy car and have to find a parts car to fix it also...

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And here we have it..thanks Lou..I knew the cut off was about that time but SC DMV advised me that if I wanted to get a '49 car from Georgia that bill of sale was all that was needed and they SC would issue a title to me as it is Georgia law they have to respect...so I did and they did..and all is well with the world..got that piece for the Plymouth Lou..it is fantastic...one less item on my list and the list is getting shorter...

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As Nile mentioned, no title will be issued even if titled from another state at time of purchase. Other states have to reciprocate and honor this law..bill of sale from Georgia and a copy of the registration show it was registered in sellers name and instant title in another state...it is the registeration that is the key...otherwise you may have to post the bond..and further the state may request that a uniform officer inspect the car's body number against bill of sale and sign a verification letter that it matches. We have to do this here in Georgia when a car sales without a valid registration card. No bond however..just went through this with the 54 Plymouth.. I know some states are very hard to deal with..personally I think if I have the title and wish to pay the fee, I should get my car titled and as how it is written here in GA that you can back to late 50's I think, they still will not do it even if you request..Georgia did not issue titles until 1949 or 50 area.

The clock you need will have just the slightest amount of dome..get it too high and the knob for setting will not function..don't ask as I never admit to anything... When removing the minute hand, pull up the setting gear and engage..using a nice flat piece of rubber gasket and your fingers wrap and hold the engage gears..firmly grasp the minute hand and do a twist and lift motion..hand should come off..I will tell you..they can and often times will be a bit tough... After that disassemble the coil from the clock..do not immerse that in solution as you do not want to break down the coating on the wire of the coil...it is a very simple yet solid little clock..The electro-magnet fires when the contact come together..this causes the counter lever to be pulled to the pole of the magnet..this stretches the spring..this stretched spring is what keeps tension on the movement like a mainspring on a wind up watch. There is a good amount of tension left on the spring when it next fires so it never really misses a beat nor winds down till the battery cannot fire the magnet or clock stops due to lack of oil, dirt in the gears or a spike from a high heel goes through the crystal.

E-bay is a trend sometimes..look for more to follow..especailly at the price this pair went for...like my cars like I like my women..skirts off

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At first I thought you had cut all the trees for posts an purlions...then I said..whoa..is that the desert????? You builing it too small...I know you say that now..but wait..it is too small..lol Like no substitute for cubic inches (turbo the exception) no substitute for sq. footage.

I have done three of these clock..the hands are just white paint...the hands do need to come off to properly clean the clock and the dial/face removed so the clock movement can be immersed and later properly lubed. I had two sets that came off rather easily and one set that really was a pain..not sure if I was going to get them off without damage but finally came off..it is the minute hand that is the bugger bear. The adjuster sleeve is held on with the slotted button screw also for removal of the dial..I also make a dial out of a cheapo clock at Family Dollar...worth the price for the cheepo to get a nice clear lens..easily marked and cut..I put masking tape over it to protect the finish whele cutting to size..the tape also protects against shatter when drilling the hole..go very very slow here...