Plymouthy Adams

you folks need to look at a factory repair manual for the Plymouth......? it is there....!!!!!!!!!

well, the 7:00 orientation is correct and IS in the book and while not written in stone but at some point in the future when it will not start some person going to say...hey look at this, no wonder the distributor is not positioned correctly and off they go changing things....BUT if by the book you can trust the book later when trouble shooting. Outside of that...it makes no never mind. But again, the book does refer to the position of 7 being correct. Find this not in the distributor section but in the oil pump section as this is what establishes the relative position of the rotor pointing at 7 It is page 152 of my Plymouth service manual.

obtained by proper index of the oil pump for the groove to run 7 to 1 on the clock.....about all there is you can say about it....

I agree, I think the TRUE business coupe was last built in 52 compared function and feature to the 53/54. They a unique vehicle the bz cp and the roof line is just undeniable.

Knuckle, having seen a "listed" business coupe of this era...there is still provisions for the seat if you wish to pop one in place there was not a distinct opening for pass through of the trunk to the passenger compartment....so either there is no true business coupe like we used to or it is just a seat delete.....I cannot recall but I think the 1/4 panel may have been full to the floor as the only real discerning difference and being refinished by the owner....was this an added....would be nice to know the full story as this one left many questions.

those style jacks are workhorse.....I have one here that I also got for 5.00 I was able to lift the corner of my house with it effortlessly.

As I stated in post three I felt the bezels were after market motorcycle and they are very much yet available at a decent price....but they fit so well on the headlight bucket I wanted to identify that light fixture/mount in particular. I got a message from the Brit site stating originals were Lucas Ranger fixtures....will run this to ground also. Right now, supper, bit of coffee and back to my acid work on the van box.....almost completed the inside work and will get it dried, wiped, sanded, wiped again and in primer. This box will take a good week at minimum on the inside alone.

no I would not thinks so...the position of the solenoid lend nothing to the base operation on the orientation of the engagement. Look at such things in your starter as poor connections as found by doing voltage drop test battery to unit and internal especially on the brush plate, dragging armature due to rear bushing wear, improper cut on the mica...ensure you have enough umph to start the car...group 2 would be certain on the Chrysler I believe, your battery cables also need to be heavy enough for the higher current of the 6 volt application. If your starter pulls just a few amps over and above the rated draw....you are now starving you ignition and thus a weaker initial spark.

I like these little cars and the MG 1100 is the only small grille car of the ADO16 I have on hand and a favorite in style....want so much to have the lights upgraded and look NOT JUST HUNG ON.....the MG of mine is a 1962 first year edition.

now that is looking at detail....I got a set of E code Hellas H4's not long back.....Netherlands I think their application. This is the car I have, the two tone dinge-mobile.....the lighting as it is.....and the the other car is what I want to look like as far as light arrangements....yes one would think they could find parts and info on the Princess/Vandem Plas....but I have struck out there also. The Princess is a nice high line car in trim...but two too many doors. Will stick with the 2 door saloons. And yes, the dorko hood pins are gone as is the damaged hood....my parking light will upgrade to the Euro clear/yellow lens for park and turn. Trying to get a clean looking install of a fully adjustable 5 3/4 sealed beam. with thanks to the Lemon Pipers... Drop your silver in my tambourineHelp a poor man fill a pretty dream

I apologized that so little of the hood and fender is seen here.....GM used a brow, Ford and Mercury trucks used a cutaway with raised brow so to speak, Studebaker still had single and Int'l had verticals...Dodge was straight line hood yet. I could only find this one pic to show what I want to look like...I will be adding these lights to compliment a set of 7" standards on a small Brit car I have here. I have zero heartburn cutting a panel...just want the right parts to start with. Bad part is I cannot locate any information on the lighting of the car I want to imitate. As the look I want is explained, anyone having ideas as to how to reach that goal, I will investigate your every suggestion. Thanks for your help

the 4 headlight system did not come about till 1958 and the 52-53 Cad would make them 7" bezels. The pictured vehicle is custom...as to the make...thinking later 58 forward Dodge truck...with the actual 2 in 1 taller bezel removed and possibly motorcycle dress bezels added which would display as shown with the headlight protruding as far from the panel that it is. The bucket of that vehicle also I think like many of the early 4 headlight Mopar bolt flush to the headlight panel with smaller opening for the back of the bulb and pigtail to come through. Ford may have been flush, not sure Chebbie as I have zero interest in them. It's a Tim thing....no offense to those that own them!! The grille however is throwing me a curve as that is not stock Dodge look but again could be customized also as detailed by the pinstriping artistic touch. I say it screams custom, just what vehicle is the base model....

nice tweak on the rack rod end adapter...

unless you just happen to have the unit on hand to play with from the other car(truck) there is a better unit out there in retro land that even in my opinion beats the star players hands down, look into a Hurricane 1000, I recommend the 1000 verse the other two models based on analog and simplicity over vacuum signal and definitely over the proprietary operation of the top line electronic control package based on reported failures from the field. Most of the time these can be connected directly to factory control cables, switch location etc etc....I find them a very easy unit to install and had the best foot print of any in the industry and if you were really concerned over looks can easily be disguised as the factory/aftermarket heater of the era....you get AC/HTR/DEF in one small package.

I am in need of identification of this vehicle....I am not sure if this is a stock setup for lighting or an aftermarket....I am so interested in the lighting set up for a special project car I am gathering parts for.....anyone know this, know if stock or at minimum identify the source of the lights buckets and bezels....the bezels look application specific....not the generic motorcycle clip on trim.....thanks so much for your time...

my Motors list two numbers...does not specify engine size or model specific....MAX-4050 (1942-49) and MCL-6101 (1949-50) The specifications on both starters are identical. Check the # on your data tag

location location location.....and willingness to travel for the right buy....have seen a couple recently advertised flathead pulls for larger engine upgrades with one having the very desirable upgrades in induction, cam , exhaust etc....

from talking to a friend, the rescheduling has disrupted the 'circuit' so to speak as the meets were timed and spread out to where the venders would make a loop, sell their goods and be back home with little displacement as possible. The venders have per my source stated that the cost to hit the random shows is a spider pattern now and costly. Hope the show is a success however and venders do show. The latest show I attended had at best three commercial type venders set up and as such my supplies of sundries are exhausted and or extremely limited. Other aspects of the event made it very much less than a success. Two scenarios were discussed, first the lack of events due to cancellations would make this a great opportunity to attend and buy...sadly the second scenario put the seller in what I will say greed mode and their prices for a swap meet were off the chart. Too many were pulling out their cell phone to check e-bay before even quoting a price. First show I have been to where there were no folks walking about with purchases being carried or toted behind them in a wagon/cart. Sadly, I do not think I will return to the event anytime soon.

given 218 as baseline .020=220.4 .030=221.8 .040=223.1 .060=225.87 .080=228.6 .100-231.3 .110=232.7 hardly worth the CI gain folks think they getting going full bore for the heck of it instead of just cleaning the wear damage and building it as needed and save the block for their lifetime plus an heir.

I know these are not made anymore but that seems a bit high and is as we all know now, incomplete assembly. And I though they were a tad high on a pininfarina emblem.

the book does not show a separate part number for ole Hernando...just the medallion 1252 676 and then the base the medallion 1254 985 sets on....so James must have shot poor ole Hernando off the first time he deployed the gun...

well for giggles I looked in my Mopar PDF master and found it listed as 1949 and lo and behold, FRONT must have been for a James Bond export for machine gun application....what's the odds of me being wrong twice.....?

belt buckle indeed.......well if you have this and wish to sell it application would be a plus, if you came across this and is not for your car...move along Betty nothing to see here.....but back to the belt buckle....I cannot see how anyone car wear those large belt buckles...they just not comfortable and will ruin the finish of your favorite ride...with the hole however, I would be looking at the trunk for a possible key port...not so much the front hood area...now of course this could be the wrong assumption...but hey, I can accept being wrong now and then about things that really are not important.

this is very popular with the rat rodders.......the blue dot fills the wrist pin nicely...loses it purpling effect though....one of the wrist pin holes would make a decent provision for a registration lamp.......

lets go the other way.....this used to be a vintage coffee table....