Plymouthy Adams
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Everything posted by Plymouthy Adams
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heat shields need not always be a factory item for folks who are dealing with problems in the fuel system where they think they have vapor lock or in some cases advanced percolation. Adding them will NOT cause any additional problem but a phenolic spacer with the properties NOT to absorb and transfer heat is always a good practice also. The 38 I am not familiar with but I do not recall a plate beneath the carb on other older flatheads. The shied I am used to seeing is the heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump.
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lots of people never understand the remark about laydown area needed when working ANY car.....you must have room to work and room to store removed panels (doors, fenders, hoods and lids) then we have drivetrain storage also...bit heavier and bulkier to move about.
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man has to have an area to sit and reflect......does not have to be elaborate....just peaceful and quite.......post your results...my reflecting area is not so peaceful as I am running the chainsaw and the log splitter nearby....
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you can say the word.....just not three time in a row......strange things may happen.....! say it again..say it again.....
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the process of the retrofit be it modern or the 55 will entail a lot of work to your car.....one may be best to entertain a car already so modified and sell yours...put you in the drivers seat a lot faster with fewer headaches and I would almost bet at a better out of pocket cost. You will recoup money on the sale of your vehicle once you take ownership of the other car. This is just a suggestion....I know well the bond of a man and the car he has had for long time also.
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of late when ordering my bud and I often combine an order and share the shipping cost....works to our advantage....but, you need to have a close enough neighbor doing similar work for this to work.
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exactly...it is extortion money....the limits for tariff not been met....subject of item exempt also being ignored....these guys are working a true scam in my opinion.
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unlike some folks and their hotrods.....these things truly DO EAT UP the highway.......we could use a new paved surface on our road...actually I am concerned as this road is always settling to a degree as there are mine shafts all beneath this section of the county...one day I suspect I will be driving to town and the bump in the road will be the roof of the car that went before me.
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not so much the shipping cost...custom brokers that want to extract fees for items exempt and or less than the threshold limit.....
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dialing 0 for long distance assist...wow that did outlast the P A R T Y line.....our first phone was if I recall an 8 party line...I think our ring in was two shorts and a long Now I am both dating myself and hinting at the very rural area I grew up...and they say better days are coming.....BS, better days are long behind us. How many here actually have talked using a hand crank phone...(not military battle field)
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you need to use a slide hammer or other rig device to mimic the slide hammer to remove the axle.....shims are there for the end float and as each is different so will be the thickness and or count of the shims. This is an item you check/adjust as you change bearings on the average. I often use a old flywheel with a stop plate behind the nut and pop out axles...some are just a bump and out..others may take bit more aggressive slamming. -
I know the pain in shipping cost....and I for one will not order from Canada for the same reason as yourself. But in some cases one must pay to play. I deal a lot with little British cars and I have had some pretty large orders shipped in this last year or so. One or two companies over there drag their feet filling orders, some you get as quick from there as a box from California....Ohio seems to bog down anything northeast...it will not get better...nor will the cost go down...and e-commerce is getting more and more business and their attitude is beginning to show as they are steadily becoming the go-to over local shopping.
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to the honest, am a bit confused in the thread title.....went flat no leaks in tire or tube....but it was not until the next day you even check to see if the valve stem was tight or apply any water for to find a apparent air leak.....you run here first and do your checks later.....very poor use of the forum....
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5th Annual C-body Show - June 26, Union, Illinois
Plymouthy Adams replied to John-T-53's topic in Off Topic (OT)
C' body.....those big boats it would be a regatta one would think.... -
this phenomenon is not just in the old car industry...it is everywhere the Schrader is used....and temperature is number one cause and effect on these devices with possible infusion of trash when airing running next in failure...tube stem is as Greg points out majorly affected by slipping hub caps that will stressed these leading to cuts and fatigue cracks...
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actually it appears to me the plug on the lower right of the picture did pop at an angle as it is showing above the lip of the machined block boss...and again, could just be an illusion as photographed...
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you talking of the drill and tap insert screw method?.....then grid down to make it look purdy...
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good start.....sounds like you have most of you targets areas picked out and lined up to address.
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Mine is still 100% stock and I service them with the 50/50 antifreeze. Works like a champ....I also use a converted grease pump to service the system. My buddy has an actual BMC service pump but he is a 4 1/2 hours away....I serviced a set up this spring for a friend who also has an Austin...along with repair of the HS4 carb. He had let his set for a long spell...that is harder on them than driving them. He had not pumped up the system I discovered since we put the newly made flex lines on the rear. The different systems used on different cars seem strange only because of no exposure to them.
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you parked in some little ole lady's space and she has sent a message.... if as stated you aired up the tires...maybe a bit of trash blew in and fouled the seal on the Schrader as everyone else is saying...only logical as you have no hole in tube or tire...
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for anyone so interested..here is the video/advert for the hydrolastic suspension.... VotW - BMC's Hydrolastic Suspension - Just British
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an electric fuel pump temp install on the car will eliminate the MTBF and on a block off plate is a simple and quick fix also...
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Little Willie from the mirrorLicked all the mercury offThinking in his childish errorIt would cure his whooping cough.At the funeral, Willie's mothersadly said to Mrs. Brown,"Twas a chilly day for WillieWhen the mercury went down!" you not getting your fix from licking chrome bumper I hope.....
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am not now NOR will I ever discount that the modern approach is better....but...we have diehards here that to quote a cigarette commercial WOULD RATHER FIGHT THAN SWITCH.....!
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yeah...it will do...odds are I will be how you say pushed in that direction....but not look the same...I know that is petty but often the look is prime to me.... BA thread....? The 10-24 is a typical coarse thread and the 10-32 is fine thread...I normally stock lots of fine thread machine screws as most applications are as such. Once in a bit you find a coarse thread application and finding hardware is a bit tougher. And upgrade to stainless makes locating hardware bit harder at times. Everyone has their own approach to look and such in rebuild/retrofit...
