Plymouthy Adams

per the one article if you care not for stock position and correct trim....the trunk lid is your oyster I had misquote above as i recalled incorrectly that 49/50 had recess license plate positions SORRY if this misled you PER THE ONLINE ARTICLE I REFERENCED 49 unique due to license plate recess 50-51 same 52 minus a number of mounting holes

no...the 49 and 50 only will interchange.....but subtle trim differences...

do we count our years from previous lives? ?

most the time the adjustment at the end of the steering column and their rubber bushing get overlooked when setting up the shift linkage for proper adjustment and removing slop/play......if you changed you rear mounts, this could have affected the overall linkage interaction and cause for popping out of gear...often one needs a person doing the shift pattern while you are watching the travel of the linkage and operation of the shift levers...

resistor depend on the coil use...if you use an external resistor coil, for general application your ballast should be the same ohm rating as the coil....so if a 1.5 ohm coil, use a 1.5 ohm resistor. Now if your coil measures closer to 3.0-3.3 ohms, this coil is internal resistor style and need no other resistor will be used. Personally the external is in my opinion the better setup....yes you have the added component but you get a big advantage in ease of trouble shooting, longer points life and added spark boost w/start on 12v when wired...wire 12V to start feed wire off the starter post after the stomp switch to coil side of the ballast.....personally I would choose a relay for the supplied voltage to the coil side of the ballast so not to experience any voltage drop in the starter circuit....whereas the wire on the stomp switch applies the energizing voltage to the start on 12 relay

good chance if you posted this carb model it would be identified..if for the PJ we have folks who are deep into that model...

per the description of the cluster and bulb arrangements and per the schematic you have listed and followed, there is but one single wire going to that bulb...it comes direct from the P terminal of the flasher....perhaps you have a bad flasher. It is not uncommon to get a bad 3 prong flasher as most are not made well today.

your pictures are a bit deceiving.....DO you have a matching yellow lens on the left side of the cluster and is it also yellow. If so, is this the left turn signal indicator...sorry but I have problems with the reflection on the instrument cluster getting clarification here. Where is your head light high beam indicator and is it RED? If you have a left and right turn indicator you do not use the pilot of the three prong....as that is for common bulb T/S and not dedicated left and right. Left and right indicator wiring should tie (splice per common bullet connector 3 or 4 way tie point) and use a two blade flasher with + sharing common with map light input and L connector....(L is load) to the flasher unit, the brake light should be a center mount and not shared with the T/S Per the schematic you show, this is not for independent turn signal indicators. Now if you or someone has incorporated the rear T/S element of the dual element bulb with brakes....then your power to the flasher is no long common tie to map light but will come from the brake light switch...whereas there may now be a single input to the brake switch and dual output to the rear of the car. One to the center mount brake light and the other tie to the flasher feeding the input to the T/S switch.....

Could be...but on the Dodge and DeSoto and would think Chrysler would be similar to the sisters....the handbrake warning is dash mounted left of low of steering column...would be interesting to put this one to bed....that lamp though sure has a "home grown" look to it though.....I would expect a smooth flowing flush light for this purpose if factory.

it is all in fun I assure you....I bet no one hoards parts near on the level I do....same as cars....seems I know how to buy, the problem is I don't quite have the selling down to a science.... I can say for certain the last part I got from this site was a donation in the name of the man who sent it to me.....a win for everyone....

oh no a parts hoarder with flipping max profits to be had....must stay...MIB.....lol

are you using the three wire flasher ..... IF this is a turn indicator light, then it is a single wire direct feed from the P terminal of the three prong flasher....

my thoughts exactly knuckle....many have similar stuff laying about and may know...not many have a parts book to consult and some have them on PDF but not want to bother.

generator or alternator...it is wired as such.....

that looks like it has been added at a later time.......if your car been updated with an alternator I would suspect this the reason for its install...when properly connected it will light when the battery is supplying the voltage but go out when the alternator supplies power. If staying on and flashing with the turn signals, I am thinking it is currently not wired correctly. One side of the lamp is connected to the "ignition on" side of the ignition switch and the other side of the lamp is connected to the generator output. When the output of the generator is lower than the voltage of the battery, the light will be on. The current path is from the battery through the light, through the generator to ground then back to the other side of the battery (the battery is "charging" the generator). When the output of the generator rises to the level of the battery, the light goes out.

we talking early developments here...to this day folks still playing with multi-tip spark plugs....this is just that young pup's granddaddy

on the hard restart, check output of coil, sounds like typical overheating to me. automatic choke is wire to the starter and is only engage when the starter is engaged...BUT it does latch the high idle cam if you use the prescribed sequence to start the car. If you choke plate is not affixed with a cable or wired stationary, it could be flopping about and if not perpendicular to the throat of the carb....very much a mileage killer. you will have to describe the light switch a bit different...confused to what you are doing there...

do ensure if you are positive ground that the pump's ground wire circuit is floating....if shared with the pump body....you must fully isolate the pump from body when mounting...electric pump should be set on isolation mounts as it is to begin with...else it will be a bit noisy.

excellent....you my hero.....lol I know a lot of folks was saying I had one too many cups of coffee today....wonder the speed of that fan on compression stroke....

I made my objective today with a bit of extra accomplished on this and the other little car I am tinkering with. It was good to get some work accomplished for sure. Getting this roof knocked out would be a major milestone for sure. Working toward that.... as an point of reference...this is what it looked like when I got it.....the inside is also ready for a coat of primer....rust removed and blocked down with paper....

no...he was listed as a distiller....worked for years in the production of gas...we talking starting out pre-1920 in the business... I had sent my cousin a request for a picture as I was sure he would have had that....

I had only seen the one myself....all I can say this is what I recall as does my cousin and brother.....I bet the base was a good 1 1/4 inches..but then as child many things are bigger than life...

when I was a younger person my grandfather had a HUGE old spark plug, massive honker with a propeller on the electrode.....I asked my cousin about this a minute ago and he also does not know who got that when grandpa passed. He did remember the plug however.....I tried to find a picture of one...came up empty handed....anyone ever see a plug of this sort?

you guys are killing me...got too much to do now and all this MTC talk...makes me want to the dig out the Honda 1000 CB Custom 10 speed....and run through the carbs and fire it up.....supposed to have been parked many moons ago running...

in for a coffee....area blasted....etched, now cleaning after the acid worked with the wire brush...then a very light protective etch wipe again while I do the few welds and grind them back down. Good chance I may meet my objective as soon as this pot of coffee is gone....