Plymouthy Adams

as to what is easiest.....I have no clue to the skill of the OP, his tools, work area or if he has access to a wrecking yard....the question put forth here also could be various depending on who did the install and their personal preference. I guess I was guilty of OT for replying to Loren and his thoughts on axle change. Personally I think each person needs to do a bit more homework even before coming here and state his need for the upgrade. Seems he has done some searching....perhaps a visit to the local wrecker for availability of those he has read about will sway him if not by availability, maybe based on price....somewhere you need to get a bit proactive.....many of these swaps will entail driveshaft cost....many will involved braking changes and some may well be axle pattern change or wheel offsets. Just not many cut and dry answers here on this....I know what I used but my build is so much different than stock and I am assuming he is wanting to keep the engine stock....though none of this is defined by the asker. We can all assume many things...we can often be wrong doing as such.

my Milton of some 35 years went tits up not long back....they no longer have this model available as the newer ones are cheaply made as is the trend of today's products....but in saying that, compared to competitors...yeah maybe still the better deal.

ffirst off Loren I am assuming we are going to tailor this thread to the cars of the era represented here on the forum. With that single viewpoint, ratio.....while changing a pumpkin is easy....finding suitable ratio sets or todays roads is not.....the better gearing has been in the larger Chryslers with larger engine that drove the third member. Until a source of ring and pinion flood the market...the trend now and in my opinion will continue to be upgrade. Second and as equally important to many is the brakes. Later being full floating non interference fit tapered axles and greatly improved provisions for parking brakes. Third, cost.....one can get a donor rear axle for way often less than the parts to swap a gear out in these older pumpkins should you find one. I would only consider a pumpkin swap if I got my hands on a nice low mileage original unit and suffer with the brakes as a secondary punishment for being too lazy to swap out for a decent axle. Actually I have change a number of rear axle and find it not that bad a job but I have never went old school driveshaft and the cost of that upgrade alone is a chunk of money. Pay to play...yes...do you truly need to play...only the owner can make that call for himself.

my 58 Dodge early (single headlight) had a step bumper and with similar side panels along the end of the bed for the protection of the tail light. I just figured it an aftermarket product for the discerning owner...

never pass up a good stroll through a wrecking yard I have never seen an aftermarket set comparable to the retrofitting of factory belts from a donor car....reminder, ensure the belts are clean and serviceable by making sure the donor was stored with the doors closed and windows up.

while some of this may cross over to general application.....I would think the compound of the pad would be the factor in bedding....different compositions, different bedding techniques...apply per type pad you using...

with all due respect but I was lead to believe over the ages that no man could out shift Ronnie Sox on a 4 speed

Excellent.....I got to admit this has to be the only useful purpose for Chapstick...

you folks more into it than I ...very very selective to the music I listen to...If I had to name one tune by ZZ Top I would fail miserably....I look at a top 100 billboard of hits and artist and bet I would not recognize 2% of them....music is not as it used to be....

your B post is more solid than that of a 4 door...................

if they have the legs....let them show them....I'm not a prude....

yeah...concrete cookies.....lol this remind me of the joke where the young girl showed up at work with a thermos bottle....coworker asked what she had and she replied, thermos..it keeps hot things hot and cold things cold. What you got it asked the coworker, she replied, cup of soup and a popsicle

the starter can be grounded to the case out of the car and on the bench same as installed. Do yourself a favor and do a voltage drop test on your cables prior to getting deep into the starter itself. You may be surprised at the very poor condition of your cabling. It would be good to also do a current draw test under load if you have a clip on amp meter or a amp probe that converts mA into amperage on your hand held meter...the specs you looking for are in the book also if not...post...we get you them from a Plymouth book...the Plymouth book is in greater detail in many sections of the manual.

that was fast......my Metric thread file was in the post this morning.....now to get it out to the machine shop and store in the machinist tool box...where hopefully I can find it when needed.

in truth, the newly purchased book should have a good tutorial on the test and repair of the starter in and out of the vehicle.....simple tools only, VOM is a must if working any electrical issues.

if you put fresh milk and cookies in there, won't the cookies get soggy?

I can park one up to 90 foot long and shut the door....but I always loved the big rides.....

we kinda wet right now...we also rarely get forest fires...actually we get the woods set on fire on purpose enough just to burn the underbrush out...never anything serious two foot high at max I would say....they constantly burning the pine straw in the pulp wood forests.....right now it is so humid I am not so sure you could strike a match....

I always default to using tests (most always outlined in the manual) and my VOM most always correctly identifies the bad component to eliminate guesswork. If you do not have a manual, or do not have a firm knowledge in the operation of the system, these systems are down right generic and a good white paper found on the internet will more than guide you along eliminating guessing to what is or is not wrong. In the above I am not pointing a finger at anyone and hope is it not assumed that I am....there is a reason test equipment and procedure were developed...they are cheap and easy tools to use....save you many hours, dollars and headaches....

chaos, breaking of the law on every level of the field...enjoy the festival...just be safe...

you are correct that it will not fix the no spark...but I would not want the man to address a timing issue when it is not needed at this time and possibly induce another problem along the one he has now....thus my post that the 7 position is NOT IN STONE....

same here Sniper....cut the east orchard Sunday...the west orchard Tuesday, now it is Friday and I need to cut again...we have had some good rains, much needed, it has set me back a bit in yardwork and some shop issues mainly spraying primer as I do this out of doors....I sprayed yesterday, blue skies sunshine and YET had to close the doors twice due to sporadic showers. Win or lose be a good sport...!

the aforementioned 7:00 position is only if your car was properly indexed in the past to reflect this. It is more important to ensure that at top dead center number 1 firing position that the rotor is pointing to the distributor cap tower that number one plug wire is affixed. There is no guarantee that the 7:00 position is in play.

hey guy...if you happy with it...I am happy for you....! We do not all have to like the same things....only a few things in common is basically all you need to establish a kinship of a sort. If I were to travel to Carbondale...it would be just to see my cousin who lives there. And you were right....I have never heard of any of the noisemakers.....lol Be ye careful out there among the English....

I may be wrong but I believe the wheel would need 15 holes, 5 for mounting the tire...10 for the clips...