Plymouthy Adams

was not nit picking....read as ground was needed here ...just stating not so....was not out to criticize you and apologize if you read it this way, but posted solely to not cause confusion.....

my understand and per discussion here in the past....this should be the accepted paint and the manner I did mine......

why is there a need for a ground connection......the pressure operated switch does not complete any path to ground, it it did you would have a serious short on your hands....the brake switch only make connection internally....

here is the bracket............

there is the factory lighted option...the clip is a bit hard to come by.....however, a quick trip to wally world and 2.50 you out the door with a small lamp that converts in seconds. I long back pictured the factory lamp holder. Maybe a quick search will reveal that pic.

I have that pic it seems.....looked in my album and here is Black Betty....in the background is the roofline of my P15 2 door sedan.......

I guess I could take a picture of my 54 Savoy beside one of my Jensen Interceptors...in comparison, that would be a rocket.

but but...what happened to the NEXT by a rocket??????????????

what's the question?

the seal needs to lay in the channel pretty much flat and of it own shape and not stretched....I would say Steele but my experience is their rubber is often too hard and does not compress as it should and forces lids and such to stand proud of the body...I suppose in time it may lay down...but looks like heck on install...

not marked solved now........its magic......lol....the 52 Plymouth cowl vent seal is as most other models unique to the 51/52...I cannot recall where I got mine exactly but I was thinking back when Frank was running Mitchells auto parts...

only the original poster can mark it solved...evidently you toggled that switch accidently....

how is this solved?

I grabbed a bunch of plastic tool boxes at the Dollar Tree and I use these for the special cut, bent, fabricated tools for each of the cars here and set them aside so hopefully one day when in need, I will know where they are. Seems each vehicle has a couple special items fabricated/modified to do a particular job...

One can never assume that the PO, friend or his paid mechanic did the job correctly. You would be wise to suspect any and all parts of the clutch and related mechanisms. Grab your specs from the book and go investigate the setup...

the shape of the tie piece is such the outer nuts are almost inside the bevel (inward angle) of the edges where there are two bolts that will be close to those outer script nuts...

sorry...I did not record that data.....am thinking 5/16 but as stated...that is only my thought....I do recall using stainless hardware on the refit...which is 5/16 I know. EDIT now that you have me thinking more on this...I recall a bit of difficulty trying to remove the script while in place as the bolts that are used to mount all the panels in this area are offering up interference of getting to the the script retainers.

older cars in a parade atmosphere does not offer the spectator a walk-around of the older car and thus the less than attentive view as you pass by. Given the other scenario where they can observe other angles and attributes...yeah...interest is a bit more peaked. Out and about in normal drive situations...most folks like the flavor of an older car in the mix....seeing it used for its intended purpose brings joy.

the script I have on hand here are threaded studs....access, cannot say as I disassembled my car for refurbish...I know I did not remove my script till after the tie plate was off the vehicle.

eliminate a lot of the guess and gain access to properly do the valves at the same time.....pull the head and read the gasket, the valves seats/faces and inspect the cylinder wall etc at the same time...

The panel would be an ideal truck.....ability to haul x cargo out of the elements.....sadly, only you can make the car of worth verse price and desire to own. Like the others, I would like to see a picture....sometimes FB market place ads are not visible to viewer if they are not FBers themselves.

Power Giant does scream MACHO compared to Cameo........lol

unfortunately not many companies dedicated to the older mopar and even fewer for retrofit into the older mopar....there are late model fuel tanks within the family of products you can draw from. Finding a direct bolt in for your proposed upgrade into the original footprint may not be possible...there are some that will be close that you can make do with....that depends on how involved you wish to get with the tank itself.

as I stated...and will say yet again......it is not a valid check point for polarity as it can be wrong from the get go and the car will run as either way.....I further said on these old cars it will not be noticed in low power these engine have. I never once said not to make it correct.....again you continue to take me out of context. This was an exercise to help the man make a battery orientation.....I also knew someone would say check the coil wire and thus the comment it may not be valid as we have no idea who may or may not have changed things about. This person had no clue is his car was positive ground and based on that I knew he had no clue as to what the polarity of his coil should be. We both agree that the coil should be wired with proper polarity.....NOW....can we agree that we as individuals have never seen every car our forum members own and for certain we can say we have seen that the wires have been wrong on members cars in the past. You seem to want to push home the correct coil polarity....and yes I agree....but unless you have seen his car.....how can you say what he has is correct. You cannot, you can assume....when helping with a simple question keep the answer simple....whereas....it was....how to determine my polarity with the battery now out....battery post size is a major indicator at the battery.....current drain on the ammeter should confirm...but then again...I assumed he knew if his ammeter worked proper in the past....