Sniper

These style bearings were used thru the last of the manual transmissioned RWD cars, had a set in my 87 Diplomat. However, at some point the material was changed to nylon. Part number is 2265938 for the nylon, 635884 for the original style As for the clips, they are called snap rings in the parts manual, which btw you should have and Rockauto sells, part number 1140557

And here I thought spark-o-matic was a cheap radio you bought at Kmart

Oh no I like him, I've been using him since 1988. Or at least that company I guess it has new owners now. I don't like Mopar Pro though.

Probably help if you knew it was called a pitman arm. Assuming that's the one bolted to the shaft coming out of the bottom of the steering box. I don't know who you've tried yet but I would start with you know Andy Bernbaum, but am I 51 there is no ball joint on that arm. Just two holes the inner tie rod ends go into. I'm out in the field so I don't have access to my service manuals so I don't know what you got. Digging around you got the same setup I do. Sounds like your inner tie rods are worn. Or possibly not bolted down tightly.

I wonder if the difference is what plant built the car?

Well, a new Edgy head for the 25" flathead, when available, sold for $1950.

You make cocktails LOL

It looks like it's brass it's not going to corrode to the Head. I don't know that there's anything you could do to make it easier in the future. But think about it how long has it been screwed into the head? Since it left the factory?

Yeah, I saw them, but to be honest once I saw no heater or AC I moved on from the engine compartment.

I took two years of French, way back in 81-82 and I slept in a Holiday Inn Express Wednesday, so hold my beer. In any case, there is a large groove that prohibits any movement of the steering wheel on the column on cars equipped with steering gears. To center the steering wheel, you have to act on the tie rods equally, if you shorten one by 2 turns, you will have to lengthen the other by 2 turns. Anyway, there is a large groove that prohibits any movement of the steering wheel on the column on cars with a steering box. To center the steering wheel you have to act on the tie rods, if you shorten one of the 2 turns, you will have to lengthen the other by 2 turns.

Heck it's been my observation that the taxi companies buy used police cars and finish running them into the ground

Why would you need a replacement?

When it comes to taxes they got what they need to get what they want. Out here in Texas they decide how much tax you pay doesn't matter what you bought the car for.

You know, I haven't had a match since Superman died.

Don't happen to have any muriatic acid in a leaky bottle anywhere around? Similar happened to me when the wife stored some in the garage for the winter, it was used to balance the pool PH.

That is the exact on I used, not 100% sure a 41 Dodge has the same speedo connection as my 51 Plymouth, but I would roll the dice and get it, lol.

Lol, obviously they aren't car people as it is well known that with few exceptions you will never break even, much less make more. A 48 Plymouth isn't one of those exceptions either.

Put an ATP Y803 in my 51 Plymouth, a bit long for my needs but probably fits yours as well. This one is a 7/8-18 female (trans end) to 5/8-18 female (speedometer end). Same one would work in my 65 Cuda as well so that was the common sizes for MoPars back then. As for what a TH350 takes, dunno, I don't speak GM. So I go to look at what a 79 El Camino takes and guess what? ATP 803 is listed as fitting, lol.

I have to wonder if this had any documentation as an actual police car? Because all those 12 volt accessories did not exist in 1948.

Aside from the cost aspect I don't really see any downside to this. But to be honest with you if I were going to do it I do the remote filter setup and use a coolant rated filter. The coolant filters themselves aren't really much more expensive than a good oil filter. And to be honest you don't need to change them nearly as often. The ones I looked at were rated at 150,000 miles and as often as we drive our cars that would be our lifetime's most likely LOL

They make them with or without conditioner and either type is rated at 30 microns, I looked at all that.

The gauges should have worked fine. oil and water are mechanical, ammeter doesn't care about voltage and the fuel gauge should be the older style thermostatic type that runs on current flow not voltage.

Seems coolant filters are common in the diesel world. https://www.baldwinfilters.com/us/en/solutions/cooling-system-filtration.html https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/engine/filters/products/coolant/replacement-filters/donaldson-blue-filters/ https://www.wixfilters.com/Products.aspx?ct=phcf Not sure if it makes any monetary sense for us, but then again nothing with our hobby usually makes monetary sense.

Sorry, I got distracted. Went out and looked, it's located low in the block between the distributor and the oil fill tube. It usually is a pipe plug, that 4 sided bung you mentioned. I usuallt replace them with a drain cock that has a nipple to attach a drain hose.

Yes there is one on the block down by the distributor