Sniper
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Everything posted by Sniper
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Weatherguard makes a universal, trim to fit, mat they list for a 41 Dodge. Looks nothing like stock though. https://www.weathertech.com/dodge/1941/custom-series-d-19/trim-to-fit-cargo-mat/ If you want to go that route and are looking for something more original looking, Home Dept sells ribbed rubber matting you can trim to fit using your original as a guide,=. Not going to look 11100% original, but it'll look it more so than the Weatherguard mat.
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When I went thru my front suspension I put as much caster in as I could get. It wasn't much compared to modern cars but it was better than stock. More positive caster makes the car more stable in straight line steering, it also increases the effort at the steering wheel. Camber may need addressed too. I think I put a half degree into mine. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/sucp-1004-muscle-car-front-end-alignment-basics/ Shows the difference in specifications of bias vs radial tires and talks a bit about why.
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Bench test it before you install it, lol
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Last time I greased my Plymouth, I think I counted 27 fittings, lol. there area a lot of them. Might see how hard it is to shift just the levers on the trans without the linkage attached. If it's hard there it's inside the trans. If not, then it's the linkages or the adjustment.
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Journal sizing isn't really a show stopper. Journals can be turned down to fit, to a point. However, is there room for the crank throws and the rods, that wold be a show stopper there. Might be easier to just buy a core 230, build it and swap it in, saving your original engine -
My philosophy on replacing a leaky core plug? Pull the engine, replace them all. If one is going odds are others are close. May as well clean up the engine, pull the pan and desludge it, seal up the rear main if need be, repaint the engine. Then you are done with it and no more farting about replacing them as they start to leak. Be a good winter project for those of you that live in the snow belt. This is something I would do with my son as a project since my grandson is only three months old.
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I assume you have a service manual? If so, it's in the front suspension section. If not, get one. Here's my Plymouth manual's description of how to adjust it and the specs needed to do so.
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snn-t4 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7031412 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4592436&cc=0&pt=2068&jsn=273
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Relays can be polarity sensitive, they usually show a diode on them to indicate that. But these are generally ones you'd see on something light a head light setup, not a starter. The purpose of the diode would be to control back EMF when the magnetic field in the coil collapses as the relay is de-energized. It's a noise thing mostly for the computers int eh car.
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They were fuel injectioning multipiston aircraft engines in WWII
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If they are then it is usually marked. Which is not to say someone didn't mark it. I would pull it out and test it on the work bench using jumper cables and a battery. Try is positive ground and if it doesn't work try it negative ground, that would answer the question for you.
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I know my 51 has a lot of painted trim where is used to be chrome. Because the Korean war was on and Nickle was a strategic material.
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I hope you are doing this rewire with a manual handy. That manual should answer your question. Looking at my Plymouth manual, it's nothing more than a light to light up the ignition switch area so you can see it at night,
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Beautiful car
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That is not their job and if you ever have ice in your block to the point that it will push out a core plug you probably have a cracked block.
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I never used sealant on them. https://youtu.be/rjmVdUmKuBghttps://youtu.be/rjmVdUmKuBg
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There are four terminal on your original solenoid. Two big ones and two little ones. The big ones connect the battery to the starter motor, inside the solenoid. The two small ones makes the solenoid operate. One has to be voltage from the key in start, the other has to be grounded. For the three terminal solenoid the only difference is that the ground side of the solenoid is done internally. If you put voltage on the one small terminal on the three terminal solenoid is should engage and kick the gear out as well as send voltage to the starter motor making it spin If that does not happen it is bad.
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I upgraded my gauge setup to an aftermarket bezel and autometer gauges. Might be something to think about https://boeseengineering.com/product-category/plymouth-gauge-panels/1946-1948-plymouth-car-gauge-panels/
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I did the same, lol
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In stock https://www.vehiclesafetysupply.com/unity-usa-volt-amber-fog-lamp-4015a-p-19718.html
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The a in 4015a stands for Amber
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Somewhere on this forum is a part number for those bulbs, probably won't have MoPar stamped on them though. Found it
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The only potential issue I can think of, and this will be very minor in this case, is any difference in weight, a heavier axle assembly will add more unsprung weight.
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Oven cleaner works well, I just buy the cheap dollar store stuff.
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I would talk with the machine shop about what effects any cleaning will have on the block. The old hot tanks were caustic and you needed to, at least, replace the cam bearings. Newer stuff can involves shot blasting, which means you need machine work. Just be clear on the effects and what you need to do.
