Sniper

That number crosses, so it looks like you should be good.

No guarantees, but an oil filter cross reference for you https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/MOPAR/L-61 You can lookup up the Wix number and they will usually give you dimensions too, So you can decide if it's the same or not https://wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterLookup.aspx

Based on 2023 I don't see 2024 being a garden of roses. That said, I will most like relocate this year. Right now I am in the interview process for a new job, going to be a substantial raise, or no deal. Which also means I need to sell this house, move 20 years worth of stuff, fins another house, buy a new, to me, car, etc. Yay, not.

Dug into the parts book to see if there is any help. I don't have the 47 DeSoto book, so can;t compare, but here's the one that should be for the OP's setup. Not the clearest depiction.

I would generally agree with this statement, but add that DOT4 and DOT 5.1 have improved wet and dry boiling points, lessening the likelihood of brake fade in hard use. But as Dan said, for our cars that's not really ever going to come into play, is it? Now if someone out there wants to play Mario Kart with their car, well maybe then it'll matter, lol.

I just used a portable bluetooth speaker for awhile.

Normal, the only thing making it turn is you stepping on the foot pedal, there is nothing else involved. So the assumption was, I guess, that you wouldn't do that unless you were trying to start the car.

That assumes the steering box isn't loose, or the mount under the dash, or both.

It attaches somewhere on the tailshaft on the transmission.

Truly beautiful, if I was going to spend stupid money on a car that would be in the running,

DOT 4 has a higher dry and wet boiling point. Important on more modern brakes that are undersized, from a thermal mass perspective, compared to older brakes. The BMW I have requires DOT 4 and a flush every two years. Time to do that, so to keep is semi related to the forum, I will be using the same Motive Power Bleeder I used on the Cambridge, just gotta get the right adapter. Eerily enough, I was just talking about this very thing with my son just before Christmas. We were at the parts store looking over brake fluid in prep for the work on the BMW. That devolved into the various fluids in general and we were squatting down looking at power steering fluid. When I tried to stand up my right knee gave me the finger and I had to use my son as a crutch to get to my feet. He asked me if I wanted to sit down till my knee got better and I told him I'd walk it off. He responded "It's your knee, how's that going to help?" to which I told him it wasn't going to get better sitting around and I didn't have any dirt to rub on it. He got the GenX reply, lol. Anyway, I survived.

Then check your coil wire to see if it is good.

Look at the inside of the cap, in the center should be a carbon button that makes contact with the tab on the rotor. Is it still there? That is usually the culprit in this specific instance.

I got to imagine a machine shop wouldn't cost that much to replicate?

Not exactly, his setup also kicks the starter gear into mesh with the flywheel teeth, something that relay you posted cannot do. What is does do is replace the disc portion of the starter. There has to be a wire from that relay to the coil inside the case to energize it and that coil also needs to be grounded on the other end. Based on it not working and the sparking you mentioned I wonder if that wire has shorted to ground? This will be a close eyeball exam because a regular ohmmeter will not tell you anything useful, now if you had an octopus that would. https://manualwiringschaefer.z19.web.core.windows.net/octopus-component-tester-schematic.html

Ah, ok. That painting was a recruiting poster back when I went into the Navy. the only painting I can do is on a ship, lol.

Lol, we've all been there. Nice car and welcome aboard.

Interesting, the email link works for me and I am not sure what picture you are referring to.

Ok, Disconnect battery negative cable from the battery then disconnect the fat cable from the starter, tape it off so it cannot short out, maybe even zip tie it somewhere is cannot short out. Reconnect the battery cable, then test your solenoid. If it still sparks the solenoid has an issue, if it does not then it's the starter motor with the issue. We can go from there.

More likely it's there to keep and road crud out. But to answer the question, I have never replaced one of them, never got to that point so YMMV.

Stop taking advice from that advisor. Los shows a picture of the native application. In that application the foot starter llever does two things. It kicks the starter gear into mesh with the flywheel AND it powers the starter motor. In your application both of those functions are done by the solenoid. If your solenoid doesn't kick the gear out, your engine will never start even if you get the motor to turn over. Does it kick the gear out?

I would not trust NOS rubber parts for anything much less my brakes. Dot 4 should not be a problem

Other than the fact that the starter pulls hundreds of amps starting the engine on occasion and that would fry any push button you tried to use there shouldn't be a problem. You would be better off getting a 6 both starter relay like my 51 Plymouth uses. It's very similar to the Ford relays you might see in the muscle car era. And using your push button to control that

Paul Harvey

I'm just visualizing the aches and pains my old body is going to have climbing in it for that spare tire.