Sniper

That machining is for the hand crank. Can't help on the socket size though.

Not sure it's a hijack, it is heater related. But good luck getting it working properly, again

Parts stores used to carry them, might still. They are called defroster hoses. Measure the diameter of your pipes and buy a new set. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hoses/lines+&+clamps,defroster+hose,defroster+hose,308

I remember years ago I was driving my 86 Daytona thru Colorado in the winter. this was in January of 86. It was so cold I got no heat out of the heater and my windshield was frosted up Had to root around in a dumpster for some cardboard to block the radiator to get heat, it worked.

If there is any juice in the battery a push start should do the trick.

These are the kind of questions that are based more on YOUR abilities than anything else. You do not mention what year Mustang, they started making them in 1964 and are still making them so the answers vary, a lot. I have seen where some have essentially cut the floor pans and fire walls out and merged the new under the old. Putting an old body on a new chassis. Here's a summary video of one such endeavor.

When I first got my 72 Dart I had that issue when the first cold spell hit, such as it was in San Diego. Turns out the heater got used so rarely that the core was mostly plugged up. Removed the heater hoses and used a garden hose to flush back and forth several times till the water ran clear, both ways. Great heat after that. Which reminds me, my 51 has the same issue,

It is my understanding that later model brakes can be adapted to work, giving you a parking brake AND more readily available drums.

Plate departure is a more accurate setting than pedal free play. I usually shoot for .060" gap with the pedal to the floor and let free play be whatever it is. The adjustment is the same, linkage. Just measuring a different parameter is all. Now I will grant that I have not, yet, done this on my 51 so I have no idea how difficult it might be to measure that gap.

741, 742 and 489 are the last three casting numbers of the commonly used center sections, there are other numbers too. 741 is the "weakest". Stock, 742 is arguably the strongest. 489 uses a crush sleeve that can collapse under high HP applications causing catastrophic failure. An inexpensive shim and spacer kit fixes that and makes it top dog of the three. I know the gear carrier interchanges between them, but that's about it, for the center section anyway. As for the casting numbers referring to what body they are in, not really, it's more of an application thing. /6 car, likely to have a 741. Big block automatic, 745/489. But even that is dependent. My 64 300 stick car had a 742, later BB stick cars usually got a Dana.

Well, I have an 8 3/4 in the garage I could compare to the axle in my 51.

The 8 3/4 didn't come out till the late 50;s. You might have a similar looking ale, but give us the casting numbers so we can help sort out what you have. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/mopar-8-3-4-inch-rear-ends Info regarding earlier rear ales is slim on the internet, lol.

Looking at a 47 Chrysler schematic, the ammeter has three connections on the battery side, One is to the battery, one is to the ignition switch and the last is to the head light switch. The feed from the ammeter to the ignition switch feeds the starter push button (key in run), which then feeds the starter solenoid and engages the starter when the button is pressed. I do not see how the head lamp switch is int he circuit at all, miswire I suspect, assuming the 48 wiring is the same, I don't have a 48 schematic.

The stock pickup in the tank has an oilite insert that is the filter.

Seems more information was given.

Thew factory service manual would show you how to find it. There are innumerable threads here showing how to do it, some as recently as last week. Three of them on page two.

Next snow we get I am taking the 51 out to do donuts in a parking lot. Then maybe I'll find a raised bed railroad track and catch some air. For my finale, I will swing by the donut shop, flip off the cops and see if they can catch me. But first, I got to get my green fedora, mask and overcoat setup.

As mentioned above, RPM is the key. My 51 has 28" tall rear tires and a 3.91 gear ratio. At 65 that works out to 3042 rpm at 65. With an OD trans, ratio 0.7, 65 becomes 2130 rpm. 75 is 2457 rpm, highway speeds are 75 around here. Now, the issue becomes braking, as mentioned, and high speed stability. When I first got my 51 is was squirrely at 65. A front end redo and a good alignment took care of that.

Cars were made to be driven, not hidden away.

Why not?

Since you do not tell us what those are, then no we cannot assume to rule them out. I'm leaning towards needed a good carb cleaning and rebuild, but that assumes you did indeed set the above correctly. Your compression readings tell me you don't have valve issues, either sealing or adjustment. Not sure why you felt the need to pull the head off, hopefully you put it back together right, including the proper torquing and retorqueing of the head bolts.

A man's got to know his limitations

What did you use for a board?

What makes a plug hot or cold is the path from the center electrode to the metal shell, that is inside the plug. Eternal lengths are not really part of it.

Kind of pricey for no engine, no transmission and no mention of a title