Sniper

It is brake b r a k e not break

I was trained to solder when I was in the Navy and the pull test was definitely one of the things they did during training of course my solder jobs may or may not had to survive combat so there was a little more on the line there LOL I still solder by hand and I probably will to the day they put me in the ground

All I have to do is read the so-called customer commentary to know that this is not something I would even look at much less use

That thing got a hemi?

Are we to guess what year, make and model?

I suspect the offset is there because if it was directly aimed at the valve center line it would be obstructed by the valve pocket casting. I suspect the offset is to allow the coolant to flow around the valve pocket casting , carrying off the heat and then unto the water outlet and ultimately the radiator.

I don't think that is unique to today. I am pretty sure they existed, in similar percentages, back then as well.

One learns to push start, if that isn't motivation enough to get the starter sorted it will at least be a work out.

Just compare the GPS reading to a known good speedo reading, such as your daily driver. I know my work truck reads 1 mph fast, probably legal reasons, lol.

First of all IT IS BRAKE not break. The brakes stop your car, if they don't you will likely break things when you crash. Sorry, pet peeve, lol. To bleed a master cylinder you are looping the output back to the brake fluid reservoir. As you actuate the piston inside the master cylinder you are forcing any air out of the master cylinder. The loop back just directs the output back to the reservoir so you can not make a big mess and reuse the fluid to bleed the master. Once there are no more bubbles in the fluid coming out of the loop back tube you should be able to connect the master cylinder back up as normal Can you do it in the car? Yes, but sometimes the fluid likes to squirt up out of the reservoir if you go too fast/hard with the pumping. Then you need to bleed the rest of the brakes.

I believe that gasket helps regulate the heat transfer to the bimetallic coil inside the choke housing.

In the schematic you linked, it is labeled as a test plug, nothing in the file mentions what that does though.

Surprise, surprise, surprise?

Here's a link to how mine is set up, but there are two types of Sissons, one mounted ahead of the carb, one to the rear of the carb.

Los just jinxed us. Lol. I need to go grocery shopping tomorrow morning, so I'll fire up the Cambridge and go. Been two weeks since I last drove her, too much seat time in the company truck, 1600 miles this week, 26 hours of driving and no my job isn't being a driver..

To small for this old man to read, lol. Tried to open it in paint to zoom and it's too fuzzy zoomed out.

All I can add is that in regards to the pin type synchros is that I broke a number of them power shifting the the A745 3 speed trans in my 64 300, warmed up 413. I never had that problem with the strut types in my A833's. No experience with the third type. How any of this might apply to your setup, I dunno.

Yes, however, good luck find the gears these days. I don;t have a parts manual for that far back so I can;t help there but I suspect Plymouthy's answer is the one that will work best.

One thing I found out when delving into PCV's, size of the engine doesn't really matter. On another site I frequent there was some discussion about adding one to an engine and the site brain trust declared that some very fancy high dollar billet and tuneable setup was the way to go. https://mewagner.com/?p=444 In the 1974 Chrysler parts manual, they list 1 valve for all engine, from the 225 to the 440. So I am not sure how critical any of that is. But I imagine one listed for the 225 will work fine in our engines. I am also pretty sure that I will never need a $130 PCV valve and if I was that worried about it I could use the Microsquirt setup I have to PWM a valve to do all of that for not much more than a regular PCV valve.

Did you put a filter on the downdraft tube? Otherwise you are sucking dirty air into the engine.

You can go to the WIX filter site and look up filters by dimensions. https://wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx?catid=4&styleid=13

You can still get new production points but I have found the rubbing block wears extremely fast.

A good bearing supply house should be able to rustle up the correct seal based on your dimensions. Are there and identifying marks on the old seal? https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsfinder/ looks like 10515 is close https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsfinder/datasheet.aspx?s=10515

Did you read the product data sheet? That is all covered there. sum-up300g_lw.pdf

It's not a kit and it is not premixed. https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/paints-finishing/section/paints-coatings-dyes-markers/part-type/paint?N=brand%3Asummit-racing