Sniper

You bring up a good point about the tie rod ends. When I tested those Mopar cop car rims with a spacer so it wouldn't crash into the upright it was extremely close to the tie rod

I am running later model Chrysler 300 / Dodge Charger / Challenger rims on the back of my 51. They fit just fine but they're 17 in. In the front I need a bit of a spacer to clear but they fit the backs just fine.

What would be really nice as a good source of timing chains and gears. Starting to get thin on the ground and I fear that pretty soon these engines will be very expensive to rebuild Vice just plain expensive

That's what the accessory position of the ignition switch is for. Powering everything but the ignition system up so you do not burn out your points.

As long as you're not driving around on them I don't see a problem. However 225/75/15 are kind of big they might actually hit. I know when I put 225 60 r15s on Mopar cop car rims they hit the upright

The specified lubricant for factory torque values is 30wt oil, unless otherwise directed. Using antisieze lessens that value about 15%, which means if you are using the factory specs and antisieze you are over tightening the fasteners.

The fan belt has nothing to do with timing.

I don't see the exhaust flapper being stuck mentioned.

Might not hurt to put a torque wrench on those steering box mounting bolts. I did on mine and they weren't to spec.

I had a 38 years ago, I do recall that it did have a sway bar. However, I do not recall it having that bar the OP is asking about. It almost looks link a link to keep the ale from moving fore and aft. Here's a video someone posted that doesn't show it Allpar's write up on the 38 shows a sway bar https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-glamour-car-plymouth-for-1938.227894/#post-1085221992

This is a great question. Certain NOS items, imo, are not the best choice. Things like rubber or cloth as part of the material used can and do deteriorate sitting on the shelf. Sometimes that's your only choice though, which makes it a conundrum.

Where the jack stands go really depends on what you're trying to do. There's another post recently where somebody thinks something's binding in their steering. In that case I would put the jack stands under the control arms so that I could get under the car and observe the steering and it's normal position without the wheels hanging down. I wouldn't put them under the control arms because I would want the arms the group to make more room to do the brakes. So it just depends. Same thing for the rear if I need to take the rear tires off I got to have the axle drooping otherwise I don't have room. No I do not have stock with tires LOL

All I can say is ask them. It appears that those bushings are in the kit but I'm not 100% sure

https://www.moparmall.com/Front-Rear-Spring-Shackle-Bushing-Set-for-1936-p/360-021.htm

Wouldn't that would be your vehicle that was not properly maintained? Not too hard to find the source of that problem, fixing it though is another story,

Plumbing solder/flux is usually acid based, use electronic solder and flux. Yes, you want good strain relief to prevent this from happening again. When I rewired my 51 every connection was crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. Then the wire runs were taped together using cloth electrical tape for further relief.

My 51 had no issues running during snowmageddon a couple years back. Got close to zero here for about a week. To be honest though, when it gets that cold with snow on the roads I don't generally go out at all. But I had to get groceries, no power at my house, power in other parts of town, lol. Needed more gas for my generator, unless I wanted to siphon, no thanks. Heater was so so, still need to address that.

Thanks for the follow up.

I just got back from a trip out shopping, well trying to shop but it seems I was up before the stores were open, slackers, lol. Got the old Plymouth up to 65 today. She likes to run. A totally different experience from my work truck (2022 Chevy). She talks to you, you feel the road, the wind, the whole shebang. In the WT you are isolated, really isolated. Heck the Plymouth has much better visibility too.

What about one that has been asked, and answered, repeatedly? Some sites I go to have a tech section that has lots of useful, but unused, information there. Noobs never use it. Alas, I know not what to do, lol.

Well, being that we were talking about a T5 I was think manual, not automajic. lol I do not like automatics.

Using an I phone I take it? That file format isn't openable with my windows machine. Anyway, seems there are too many suppliers using the wrong thickness brake friction material out there, probably your issue. How to fix it? Well here's come help

https://p15-d24.com/topic/37803-got-my-413-flathead-delivered-today/#comments

A relevant title to your posts would help people notice what you are asking for.

Most people looking to run an OD are looking for the highway aspect of it. Now sure why you'd need to run around in OD in the city. Not really quick or easy, not to mention you now also need a new driveshaft, assuming you are using the original MoPar OD and not something like a T5. Then you need to fab up some sort of actuating system to now use those parking brakes. Don't forget to set the pinion angle and address the fact that the early MoPar leaf springs are narrower than later springs and you may need to cut off the donor's perches and put on new ones. I will admit that when I swapped in a 9 1/4 into my 38 Plymouth the perches were not an issue. Since I was also swapping in a 360 and automatic the driveshaft was going to get redone anyway. All of it is doable, but if adding later drum setup is a simple matter of some easy machining I'd look there unless I needed a stronger rear axle.