Sniper

Nothing, as DJ alluded to.

How far off the ground is that lower control arm going to be? an inch? Will it hang lower than the scrub line?

Yes they will, don't know if they have a minimum though

It's fine to update your stuff. I have no problem with that. But I figure hey, it's lasted 70 years on GL1. I think GL1 proved itself to me anyway.

And those are called seat tracks I believe. I would talk to French Lake Auto and see if you could get a good used set

Not sure what manuals you're looking at but the factory manual calls for gl1. Which you can buy at Napa. that's what I put in my 51 2 years ago when I changed my transmission fluid. Also changed my gear oil and I used, I think, gl4. I used the viscosity recommendations in the factory service manual. You can buy a copy of the factory service manual from RockAuto. I believe the specifications are listed in the very first chapter.

You know the other day I was driving around in Midland Texas and I saw an F-350. Now you might say an F 350 is fairly common and that would be true except this one had six doors, three on each side and the bed area was integrated into the body turning it into some sort of gigantic SUV looking thing. It was professionally done and looked very nice. If people are willing to spend the money there's always some specially company that will make whatever you want and that sounds like what Briggs did for Chrysler.

Where those gears are is also where the park switch and run switch connections are might want to make sure those are clear in the contacts are mating

It's crazy. There is NOTHING unique or difficult about these engines. One of the reasons I got my 51 was to teach my son the basics and there is nothing more basic than the 51, lol. Then I threw him into the middle of the lake to teach him how to swim (got him a 2015 BMW 535 and he does the maintenance on it). What I suspect is the real reason is that it is a rare, these days, engine that the shop may have no idea where to get parts and they do;t want to deal with the potential hassle. Since you are an OTR trucker any chance you could drop it off somewhere? I know the Model A guys have a listing of machine shops that cater to their stuff. Got to be one of those shops near you that shouldn't be afraid to machine your stuff.

I spent a long day working to day, well most week days are 12 hour ones, and come home to see what the crew here has posted in hopes of being intellectually stimulated. Y'all need to step up your game. Not enough content is all I am saying, lol.

I bought some 1/8" drill bits that bent the first time I used them,

Newport Engineering makes a 12v electric wiper motor setup to replace the vacuum one. No 6v version though, https://newportwipers.com/product/1949-50-dodgeplymouth/#wiper-motor

Ma has been using those nylon bushings since at least the 60's. Not like they wear out either.

Not sure why you thought you needed a Runtz resistor. The gauge works on current flow not voltage. I don't have a 42 service manual, but I do have a later one that covers that style gauge, there is a while troubleshooting section in it. Have you gone thru that?

Yeah, mine worked fine one day, the next no worky, lol. I did nothing other than park the car. I do need to replace the torque shaft bushings though.

My 51 had an issue with being sticky about returning to top. I ended up greasing all the fittings, keep looking there are a lot of the, some down by the overcenter spring. Fresh grease, working the linkage a few times sorted it out.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. In case anybody else is looking at this in the future there are companies out there that will sleeve your old master cylinder. I don't know how much it cost but it might be cheaper than 200 bucks

I have the same problem on my 51 and it is most definitely a broken spring. I ended up having to buy a couple of mechanisms off of eBay to get those Springs

You will have to google those numbers, they both came up for me, but not at RA, what RA does sell is the parts manual.

These style bearings were used thru the last of the manual transmissioned RWD cars, had a set in my 87 Diplomat. However, at some point the material was changed to nylon. Part number is 2265938 for the nylon, 635884 for the original style As for the clips, they are called snap rings in the parts manual, which btw you should have and Rockauto sells, part number 1140557

And here I thought spark-o-matic was a cheap radio you bought at Kmart

Oh no I like him, I've been using him since 1988. Or at least that company I guess it has new owners now. I don't like Mopar Pro though.

Probably help if you knew it was called a pitman arm. Assuming that's the one bolted to the shaft coming out of the bottom of the steering box. I don't know who you've tried yet but I would start with you know Andy Bernbaum, but am I 51 there is no ball joint on that arm. Just two holes the inner tie rod ends go into. I'm out in the field so I don't have access to my service manuals so I don't know what you got. Digging around you got the same setup I do. Sounds like your inner tie rods are worn. Or possibly not bolted down tightly.

I wonder if the difference is what plant built the car?

Well, a new Edgy head for the 25" flathead, when available, sold for $1950.