Sniper

As I stated and you failed to understand, what people, aside from you, are calling a rope seal fits into a groove that is machined in the block and rear main cap. What you have is a bolt on seal that does not fit into a groove machined into the block and cap. The actual sealing material composition is irrelevant to the popular nomenclature. You can call a duck a goose but no one is going to jump.

What you have is not really what people call a rope seal What you have, bolts to block and around the crank This is what people call a rope seal, fits into groove in block and rear main cap.

so, there should be stuff in the engine compartment? Here's a snap shot of the parts book diagram showing that style heater.

Looks like the battery is a 12v one, so that probably means the fan motor is not hooked up for a reason, lol. I found a 12v heater fan motor that would work with my 51 Cambridge's setup. But the OP's is different so I dunno if that motor would work there too. http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor

Oh, interesting, your heater core is inside the passenger compartment. Mine is on the pass side inner fender with the fan ahead of the radiator core support. Not sure how that louver is set up in your case.

On these older Mopars the heater is in the engine compartment and a piece of heavy cardboard like duct work directs the hot air to that louver you mentioned. I don't know what you have and what you need to make that work, an under hood picture would help. But the duct work is (was?) reproduced. nice looking ride though.

Really need the engine numbers to be sure someone didn't swap it out on you in the day and probably need to eyeball the rear main seal anyway to ensure you order the right one.

The aftermarket mounts available today do not hold up, they come apart quickly. Who knows what shape an NOS one might be in, Mitymounts has an expensive solution for that, but by looking at what they do you can replicate it for a lot less with a couple of proper length countersunk screws, a drill and a tap. http://mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm The spool mounts I referenced hold up better and you can get poly inserts if you want. I usually just fill the voids in the rubber versions with RTV. https://www.manciniracing.com/sptybuki.html They make poly versions of the biscuit mounts too, even more expensive. https://www.manciniracing.com/newmapopomom.html Lots of ways to skin the cat here.

Might be a market for those gaskets if you can figure out how to do them reasonably.

You can buy those style mounts from Transdapt, they only fit the 340/36 engines though. Which is stupid, imo. The 340/360 have narrower driver's side mounting ears on the block. the 273/318 ears are wider, you can shim the 273/318 mounts to fit the 340/360 ears, but you can't stretch the 340/360 mounts to fit the 273/318. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/trans-dapt-performance-products/part-type/motor-mounts-and-inserts/make/dodge/engine-family/mopar-small-block-la Now I think, lol, the early hemi universal mounts use the same type mounting ears as the 273/318 so those might work. https://goodspeedusa.com/product/universal-new-motor-mounts-for-early-hemi-mopar-kit-w-rubber-cushions-brackets/ Generic, universal (i.e. fits nothing) 273/318 engine brackets https://chassisengineeringinc.com/product/cs-4117-mopar-v8-engine-mounts-17-inch-1964-273-318/#tab-description But to be honest if I was going to fab my own kit I would use none of them. Those rubber biscuit insulators fail. I'd just get a set of later model Mopar spool mounts and fab the frame end of that. They are only available, in the aftermarket anyway, for the wider 273/318 ears, but as I said, you can shim those. You can see the shim pack on this pic of me cleaning out the air injection holes on teh 360 I stuffedinto my 87 Diplomat. https://www.oocities.org/motorcity/2398/mbody/360swap/smog.jpg

In my parts manual this is listed as an accessory and the switch is located on a bracket at the handle. No part number for the kit though.

I dug out my '17 Butch's catalog, here's the pic they had for the complete kit that should fit a 50 Dodge.

Ford rims can have too small a center bore. Any MoPar 5 on 4.5" rim will fit the hub, but width and offset might be an issue. I test fitted a MoPar 15x7" rim, like on M bodies, with P255/60R15 tires and the tire would hit the UCA outer pivot at full lock. I am running 17x7 later model Mopar (2005-2011 300/Charger/Challenger/Magnum) rims with 255/50R17's in the back, almost perfect there. In the front I need a spacer to make that combo work. The bore diameter on that on is 73mm (2.87"). The Ford rim I test fitted (2006-2011 Crown Vic) had way too small a center bore, 70.6mm (2.77"). You could force it on, but getting it off was a real trick, lol. Granted I have not tested all Ford rims and knowing how Ford likes to mess stuff up there probably is a Ford rim that fits, lol. Measure the bore size of the rim you are looking at, if it.s 2.87" or larger then that part should fit.

That really is an issue with the programmers. My BMW has no issue dealing with those things. There is good and there is good enough and then there is good enough for government work. lol. Since most of this is driven by regulation the OEM's aren't obligated to make it good or even good enough, just good enough to for government work (meet the regs). See above comment to PA, lol. I drive two vehicles with adaptive cruise. 2015 535 and a 2022 Silverado. The older BMW version is substantially better than the newer GM version, the GM one randomly brakes on a hill, up or down not traffic around me, and it's like the brakes are an on/off switch. I guess that's one way to clear your 6 when you have a tailgater. You can turn it off but I find it more useful than not in most cases, just not very polished or smooth in the GM version. No complaints at all about the BMW implementation. Only the GM has active lane keeping. Got pulled over when I had less than 500 miles on the truck because of it. I was headed home from a job on a narrow, no shoulder, two lane highway with a 75 mph speed limit. DPS truck was headed the opposite way and I drifted over to the right to maximize clearance. Lane assist, unknown to me at the time, pulled me left, I went right and it was a fight. I had no idea what was going on and though I was losing my mind. Trooper turned around and pulled me over. No ticket, though he said he was concerned I might have been having a medical issue going on lol. Yeah, i was losing my mind. You can turn it off, but it is not a permanent off, turns back on next time you start up the truck. The BMW's lane keeping just vibrates the steering wheel on which ever side you are drifting towards. Kind of like Dad popping the back of your head when you aren't paying attention.

That doesn't work so well with low profile or run flat tires. With the balloons that normally come on our cars, yes.

I ran into an issue where my plug wires popped off on me. If you have good sealing boots, and you should, they can pop off when the air entrapped in the boot heats up and expands. What you need to do is pinch the boot as you install it so that any excess air can vent out as you slide the boot over the plug or cap tower. This should prevent this issue.

My BMW has a TPMS system I dislike. It will not show you tire pressures until you have driven the vehicle some. Which means if the tire is low when I get into the car, and it would be most convenient to address, it tells me nothing till I am tootling down the road then it'll pop up a warning, meaning I have to find somewhere safe to pull off the road and address it. How handy, my work truck will warn me as soon as I start it up. Anyway, if your system read tire pressures and shows you PSI it's a direct system, otherwise it's an indirect. Of course there is the real useful warning that just tells you a tire is low and not which one, how handy, lol.

The parts you mentioned, I found the website, your link worked.

I believe the op said there was no wire. In that case some weed wacker string does the trick

I couldn't find it?

A generic small block Mopar swap kit would probably work just as well

I just used a pop rivet for the button head under the horn button. Took the center out of the pop rivet and crimped it. For the other end I believe it was one of those blue bullet connectors work just fine

If you are looking to get into these cars for money, well I hope it's losing money you are wishing for because making money isn't going to happen. No, it doesn't add anything to it's value. Maybe if it was in pristine, unrestored condition it might make for something interesting for the auctioneer to claim.

My parts manual shows two different shifter setups, one for standard transmission the other for Gyromatic, Tip Toe Shift and under drive transmissions. None of which show a separate rod for reverse.

Depends on how you use the car too. Trailer queen that only drives on and off the trailer, who cares. Daily driver? Well you'll probably wear them out before you age them out. If it's just you driving, versus the wife and kids, well I love them, sort of, lol.