jclars

Wow, almost two months since posting, but life takes its turn in ways that are not always how we wish. I now find myself with a more "normal" shop schedule and have moved forward since just before Christmas. My wrists have also improved so I have some strength back to turn wrenches at least. So, while I was out of town, I spent prolonged time on my computer, searching for fixes to the Lexus ECU communication problems. I found almost exact symptoms relating to a bad fuel pressure sensor that basically shut down communication with a bad signal. It really wasn't supported by too much logic, but many instances of this exact solution seemed to indicate it was a viable one. My tech thought it could be any of the sensors that connected to the computer, but when I told him I had replaced the fuel regulator at one point (some on the Lexus forum remarked that I had a set of gonads) he figured it was worth pursuing. The one way to confirm this diagnosis was to unplug the sensor. Well, the pic shows exactly what it took to get to the sensor! The air intake plenum had to be removed. Along with all things attaching to it. I didn't have the guts to test the sensor right away, but when I unplugged it this morning the computer started communication! The engine even tried to start without the intake connected. So here we go! John

My project time is still limited, so I make the most of it when I get the chance! I installed new battery modules (40) into the pack and found the new batteries showed a strong charge. However, a newly created or previously undetected error code emerged indicating that my engine control module was not communicating with the hybrid module. The electric motor was functioning, but the combustion engine was not starting. I reset everything possible on my own, but discovered via Lexus owner forums that specialized scan tools would probably be needed to identify the problem. Luckily I found a local mobile technician who had such tools and expertise. The trouble is he is so busy that I can only get him on a limited basis. He gives me homework to accomplish between visits, so it continues to be a good learning experience. Since we are still tracking down the issue, I moved the car (under electric power) from the lift to the gantry hoist location (yes! it still stands!). I took the opportunity to take some pix outdoors where I could get a better angle to show off it's final stance. I also finally got around to fitting the grille - it took less chopping than I thought, (thx to moving the body fwd 1"), and there may even be room behind it to return the AC coil to its proper location in front of the radiator! Driving weather is now limited (especially since the engine isn't running and the body is coming off!). I will move into my winter project mode, with interior trimming and painting. I will be able to continue to test drive the Lexus part of the car during its repair, in a go-kart configuration, since it stands on its own frame. It was about 1 year ago that I started this adventure, and even with significant life interferences, I got further than I ever dreamed I could! I am targeting having a driver by next June! Here we go!

I am just now able to get back to heavier shop work, following wrist recovery. Battery modules all tested deficient across the board. I just ordered a tested and balanced set (40ea) of pre-used ones from BattTech in Wisconsin. I chatted with a tech there and felt they at least culled out the bad modules and assembled the group with some sort of logic. I'll find out how it all works out shortly. In between testing of modules, I lowered the front end of the car by using what are known as RCA's in the Japanese racing world (Roll Center Adjusters). After lowering, I unfastened the body anchor points and moved the entire body forward 1" to better center the wheels in the fender wells. Very pleased with the look and the additional rake it provides.

The amount of stored energy is quite low with all the bus bars between individual batteries removed. (Yes, 300 volts/240 amps otherwise.) The strategy was to divide and conquer without being indifferent to the potential for being a conduit for that energy. Basically removing bus bars at half points to reduce the risk of any shocking experience very quickly. The key word is "indifference". Can happen in a multitude of scenarios, for instance, a table saw. I have a scare on my little finger from my 7th (and final) year as a shipwright to remind me.

heh-heh - I will not be part of the LS scene. In any car I would do - reminds me too much of the 350's rage back in the day. I've never gone with the herd on most of my projects. Plus, I know what the worst case cost is at this point, and it is far less than swapping engines.

After one more short road run, the hybrid battery pooped out. As I was restricted to light duty due to bum wrists, I waited for unsuspecting enablers, er, I mean friends, to stop by to help get the battery box on the work bench so I could begin testing the 40 ea individual 7.2v batteries. This took 3 weeks! Not that I don't have friends, but some snuck away without helping, as they thought they knew what was good for me! But eventually I got the box on a rolling bench (non-conductive surface!!), and got it totally disconnected for testing. I used a power source to bring each one up to 8.2v. I used a "hobbyist" pocket charger/discharger to discharge each one to 6v in order to determine minimum Amp hour capacity (6.5). So far, the first six I've tested have failed to reach the minimum. Not trusting that I knew what I was doing, I used a 12v light bulb of known amperage and timed the discharge to 6v. Yup, failures confirmed. I hope to find enough good ones to justify replacing individual units. Not sure what that means quantity-wise, but a whole "refurbished" used pack is as low as $1200, while single used pieces are $30 each, with unknown pedigree.

Also added this little detail.

Wow, going on 2 months of absence, but I alluded to long distance family care issues which continue and then a long stretch where both wrists were in too much pain to work. I continued with one for awhile, which resulted in limited progress, then both hands quit! Just now able to at least type. I will try to catch up this thread to current status. I did successfully complete the gas fill tube relocation. I hope to hinge the original chrome cap to snap open and appear original when closed. The Lexus computer demanded the air tight cap and venting system, otherwise I might have approached it differently. I can now refuel the combustion half of the car! John

I also saw a number of round ones on google image examples. All in slightly differing locations, but close enough to make me think they had some guidelines. Where they a dealer added option? Looks like anything goes, although I am trying to stay close to original. 😃

have an example?

I will look in my inventory.

You are correct. It is a matter of where to put them where they will not look out of place. If I could find a bolt head LED, I might replace a chrome bumper bolt on each side with small round lights, but with more LEDs than the blinker.

I too want to have back up lights, as they are in the same Lexus harness. However, even more desirable is the reverse cam that was on the Lexus and operational. I think I would prefer that over the lights, and it may be easier to hide over the license plate.

And so Sniper has created a video posting monster! This is the taillight/blinker action I wanted to post with the above LED blinker mod mentioned above.