Sniper

Excellent. make sure you check the entire range of motion for any interference, lock to lock and tire at full jounce, and full rebound.

When words are all you have it pays to use them properly. A backfire goes out the carb not the tail pipe. A misfire or afterfire goes out the exhaust. Two different issues with two different symptoms and two different solutions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Back-fire Years ago I had an afterfire issue on my 64 300, it was caused by a plug wire that came off the plug and the unburned fuel charge was being ignited in the exhaust causing a flame to shoot out one tail pipe and making a loud pop, almost like a gunshot. I was waiting on a friend to finish checking out of the base pass and decal office when I first heard it. From inside the car is sounded like a pftt. The gate guards were looking around for the gunfire, the office was right next to the main entrance. The friend was walking around the back of the car when it popped and he jumped. That's how I found out what that sound was. The link provided gives you some direction as to where to look depending on what it is you actually have.

OP's in Germany, probably don't have a Harbor Freight nearby.

Just remember that Hollander's will only list an interchange if it's a direct, no mods needs, interchange. For example, when I replaced the heater control switch in my 65 Cuda I used a later model switch that had the ability to turn the AC on/off in defrost but that required plugging one wire to a different spot on the switch. Not an interchange by Hollander's rules.

Not in my 55-58 parts book. Generally the lower the number the earlier it was introduced. That number is pretty low.

One of these drag link sleeves and a pair of tie rod ends on it will fix your issues.

I don't believe I said anything about the " "Battery" terminal of the voltage regulator ". I believe I said the output stud of the alternator is where I would source the 12V for the headlights if converting to relays. Make sure you use a fusible link or a fuse where ever you source your voltage.

Nice work

331 bore is 3.8125 in. 354 bore is 3.9375 in. That's a .125" difference, 1/8 in. That's a lot, you would definitely be wise to sonic check it before boring out that far. It's been done but it's pretty much wasting that block for any further rebuilds. For some good info on the early Hemis http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/hemi-c3.htm One final thing to consider before spending a nickle on an extended bell Hemi. What are you going to do for a transmission? That extended bell limits your option.

When words are all you really have to explain things it pays to be more precise.

Why are you folks telling him to use the battery as the voltage source? You do not want anything other than battery charging current running thru the ammeter and if you use the battery as the source you will be running eh headlight current thru the ammeter as well as the charging current. Poor choice there.

All loads need to be ont eh alternator/generator side of the ammeter. Move your relay feed from the battery + terminal to the output stud of your alt/gen. The only load that should be going thru the ammeter is the charge to the battery. I would take this opportunity to clean and tighten the connections at the ammeter as well.

That's syringe is probably less messy too, but everyone has a turkey baster, well your wife probably does and if it goes missing ..... But yeah, good pic of filling it thru the vent ?

Here's a link to The Freewheeling Tony Smith's rod work album on face book, this guy is an artist. Rod work on Mopar flathead 6's

Dodgeb4ya - Pretty sure I said "if the carb has fuel in it". If it doesn't you'd be much better off to use an old turkey baster and fill the bowl with fuel thru the vent than cranking and cranking and cranking and cranking and pumping and pumping and pumping. Fuel also lubes the leather cup in the accelerator pump and pumping it dry wears it out faster, not to mention a dry leather cup doesn't work so well and likes to get deformed.

I don't think I have ever had to pump the pedal more than twice to start it up. If you need to pump the carb 5-10 times something is wrong with your carb, assuming it''s got fuel in it.

A 65W bulb (12v headlight) pulls 5.4 A per bulb, high beam. 35W on low beam so yes 15A breaker is fine. Specs are based on a H6024 bulb, 7" round halogen.

I just tuned up the Cambridge this weekend. there are a couple of things that are different due to temperature concerns. Off the top of my head since I am about 5 hours from home till Friday they are as follows. Oil viscosity, both in the crankcase and oil bath air cleaner, is thinner. Accelerator pump shot is different, more so as to compensate for the condensing issue someone mentioned. On my 51 the fast idle speed is not adjustable and I don't believe it is on either of yours. But if it is, check that. Wouldn't hurt to just tune it up altogether.

Reading the information requirements it appears this one might be compatible with the stock shifter?

Not very compatible with the shifter mechanism.

It really depends on the noise. If it seems to be a whine that winds up/down with engine rpm the source is likely the generator.alternator. If you can disable the generator/alternator from producing and the noise goes away you have found it. To filter the generator/alternator output Use MOPAR 4606866AA or equivalent. Bolt the ring to the output stud and ground the spade terminal. If it's staticky like during a storm then it's likely ignition noise. Resistor plugs and/or wires can help. You can put a noise suppressor on the coil, use WELLS 1B1011. Fork terminal to the coil + connection and bolt the cap to ground. The condensor inside the distributor can also be a contributor if it fails. Replacement is simple.

With today's CAD/CAM setups once it's been programmed it can be "stocked" forever. Just load the program, material and hit start. That means a part number could be valid in perpetuity.

maybe in 1971 it was valid. Today, FM doesn't list it and I find no source for shelf stock. So unless someone has some squirreled away somewhere it's not a valid number anymore.

Might try the freewheeling Tony Smith. He does serious quality work on our old stiff and I know he rebuilds rods. https://www.facebook.com/thefreewheelingtonysmith/?eid=ARB8r2CCK_UQRQQxR44IF_auuPG2ODs3r357vJjbCDrmtEmh5N0DTG6Mno8nvR5SCkORxAnYRtAAPjMe If he doesn't have a source for OEM bolts I bet he has a good solution for the issue.

9560E doesn't show up as a valid number https://fme-cat.com/PartInterchange.aspx?pn=9560E