Jump to content

Sniper

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6,298

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    141

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Sniper

  1. Sniper
    https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting
  2. Sniper
    There might be a radiator shop near you than can clean and test it.
  3. Sniper
    I don't like more than .1-.2v drop, especially on a 6v system.
  4. Sniper
    No idea, service manual doesn't say and the parts manual only shows a standard and heavy duty option, no rates given.
  5. Sniper
    Dude, you need to proof read. There is no 260 magnum engine. Do you mean the 360? If it's a magnum Dodge called it a 5.9 Magnum, not a 360. Damned metric system.
  6. Sniper
    Err, denatured alcohol, at least these days, usually has "wood" alcohol in it (methanol). Back during Prohibition, same time frame, the use of methanol to make denatured alcohol was mandated by US law. These days, there are other options used, so check if you are going this route.
  7. Sniper
    Or flush it with a hose to make sure you get it all. The paint issue isn't what's called corrosion and most definitely was not what I was talking about.
  8. Sniper
    For $43 I bought this. It does everything you need it to do for automotive electrical work. Including dwell and tach, How cheap do you want to get? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. Sniper
    Except dwell. An automotive multimeter has that though,
  10. Sniper
    DOT 2? I wouldn't even know where to get it. None of the brake fluids are corrosive, in and of themselves. It's the moisture that gets into them that can cause issues. Which is why you are supposed to flush them regularly.
  11. Sniper
    Odds are it's a reinforcing wire in the sand core, kind of like rebar in concrete. There to keep the core in one piece will after the casting cools. The sand comes out, the wire does not.
  12. Sniper
    lol, it's a pet peeve of mine when people use breaks when they mean brakes. Guess it's a pet peeve when they do it the other way too. Of course, I have a half dead 9 year old keyboard in a 14 year old laptop and fat fingers, so I typo the heck out of things.
  13. Sniper
    Wow, I used to deal with tubes in the Navy, but we didn't use mechanical vibrators, no need we had AC. So that issue never crossed my mind.
  14. Sniper
    Due to gravity, the top plug in the second picture is the fill, the bottom plug is the drain. 😎 The plug in the first picture, no idea. My 51 doesn't have that one.
  15. Sniper
    My Dad taught me the best thing to do was wear mirrored sunglasses whenever you are inspecting rearends.
  16. Sniper
    Later Mopars don't have a plug like the 8 3/4. My 51's had it
  17. Sniper
    Two different sources of noise. If it's a whine that increases pitch with increased rpm, generator or alternator whine. If it's more of a popping and crackling then it's plugs.
  18. Sniper
    Nope, it it did it wouldn't work. probably the filter capacitors are bad.
  19. Sniper
    That's because it wasn't called GL1 back then. There was no other GL spec, so it was GL by default. Later as GL2-3-4-5 came about then numbers were added, retroactively for GL1. In any case, GL1 seems to be the oil for non synchronized gearboxes,, recently surpassed by MT-1. Since we do have a non synchronized 1st gear, it may still apply.
  20. Sniper
    Ahhhhhhhhh
  21. Sniper
    the shear dynamics in a transmission are different than in a rear axle. Hence the need for a different lube. In a rear axle you get a sliding of gear teeth across each other than does not occur in the transmission. The 51 FSM calls for an Extreme Pressures Hypoid Gear Lubricant, SAE 90 for the rear axle. Whereas for the trans and OD, it calls for SAE 80 Gear Lubricant. Back then it was GL1, there was no other choice,
  22. Sniper
    Chrysler has used the same pilot bushing from the 20's thru the 80's. 53298 is the part number. Buy a parts manual when you get your pilot bushing.
  23. Sniper
    I am not going to say Ford Aerostar Springs LOL I said I put on my 51 or like 997 lb per inch? I just looked the specs up the other day somebody asked me about the Aerostar Springs which I'm not saying LOL
  24. Sniper
    Well if you go the scare bird route and use the one piece brake rotor and hub assembly from the a body FM and J bodies that has the proper Hub diameter for our Wheels
  25. Sniper
    Just remember in the stock configuration the centering ring on the stock Hub is what centers the wheel. I would modify the rotor to fit properly if it were up to me.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use