Sniper

Wen was young and dumb I had a 64 300 with a 413. When I needed to take the block to the machine shop I just picked it up and put it in the back of my Daytona. When I got to the shop I picked it up again, carried it inside and put in on the counter. Asked the lady where she wanted it i, she gave me an odd look and said right there is fine/ Net morning I woke up and the trapzoid muscle across my right shoulder was hollering at me. That was in 1988, to this day if I work to hard that muscle makes itself known, lol. I never weighed that block, but the internet tells me they weight about 220lbs. You got a lot of cast iron in that block my friend.

Looks like it's a half assed job. Look at the rear shocks. I mean, you put in a different rear axle and some rusty shocks? Lots of little, attention to details things like that in this offer.

What Dave said. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temperature. If you're running too hot, and "middle of the gauge" really means nothing, then there is an issue elsewhere. Put a thermometer in the coolant and see what it is. Very generally speaking, high running temps at low road speeds is usually an air flow issue. As a rule of thumb, if you can put a piece of paper up against the outside of the radiator and the fan holds it there it's usually ok. My 51 had an issue, turned out there was a lot of very fine dust packed onto the fins of the radiator. So while the airflow was sufficient, the heat transfer was impeded by the dirt. A good hosing out of the fins fixed it. High running temps at highway speeds is usually a water flow issue. Check that the coolant level is good and the thermostat isn't partially closed. Sometimes the impeller on the pump comes loose or has eroded away. Wrong pulleys got installed at some point, belt is slipping, etc. My 51 had a 4 blade fan, Chrysler, at some point, put 6 bladed fans on these engines. I don't know their reasoning but it may apply to your situation. Of course this assumes the water jacket isn't full of crud and we all know that happens.

Don't think that can happen with the flatheads. Just won't run right.

Good point, I was going to buy a floor pan from the Plymouth Doctor, alas, I can no longer do that. If I win the Mega-millions I might try to buy and resurrect some of these old suppliers, lol.

Why? You're not doing anything useful running that one

The problem is neutralizing the acidic solution so that it doesn't cause problems in the future. I used to use vinegar to clean up the terminals on bulkhead connectors on my muscle car era mopars. But I would dunk them in a baking soda solution when I was done cleaning them to neutralize the acid

https://www.txdmv.gov/motorists/buying-or-selling-a-vehicle/out-of-state-and-foreign-vehicle VIN inspection is part of the vehicle inspection required of all out of state vehicles wanting a Texas Title.

Wilcap made an adapter to do just that. They probably still make it I don't know I haven't looked lately. But if I was going to go through the aggravation of sticking an automatic in my ride it would have four speeds with 4th gear being Overdrive.

Well SKF makes the Speedi sleeves and they also make seals so I think the answer is there

The problem with shooting for good quench is that you're connecting rods and your Pistons all have to be equalized. Yes it can be done and yes it's going to cost money.

Sometimes if there's enough humidity and the clutch sits long enough the pressure plate rusts to the disc and they kind of glue together. Ran into that issue when we went to go pick up the mutant nuclear Super Bee in San Antone some years ago.

Not a problem I ain't doing it for a living so I'm not under any kind of time pressure to get it done quick. When I rewired my Plymouth I spent the whole weekend doing it 24 hours but that was because I wanted to get it inspected so I could drive it.

Well theoretically the bore is straight and true and there shouldn't be any variation to speak of from top to bottom or anywhere in between. As far as I know there's no specified clearance given the parameters you mentioned. However there is a specified clearance and it's applicable anywhere in the bore. I don't know what it is off the top of my head though

In texas, out of state purchase has to have the VIN number verified before they will issue a title. If it already has a Texas Title then they will reissue a title in your name without a VIN check. However, we have an annual safety inspection and the inspector is supposed to check the VIN number. Of course that safety inspection goes away after this year.

It is my understanding that the oil does not go to the filter until the bypass valve opens. Which is why it is called a bypass oil filter.

Hmm, I had my last kid when I was 40 as well. But he's only 18 now. Can;t help on your question though, sorry.

That would depend on the alignment of the bulb pins compared to the bulb contacts. If they are inline then yes, otherwise no. For all we know one of your bulbs is shorting the two contacts in the socket together.

Got a Dorman 927302 for my 51, haven't fitted it up yet, so no comments on how it'd work.

Err, I haven't commented here for a reason.

Silly question, is there gas in the tank? The gauge might be lying to you.

The switch part pretty much all works the same, this one is an aftermarket wire setup. It doesn't cover a hazard circuit though.

Here's a graphic that may help understand how the turn signal switch works

Actually, you can get new contacts, did that when I rewired my 51. Hey, if/when you get around to wanting to rewire your truck, give me a shout. I'd be happy to spend a day or three helping you out and BS'ing.

A circuit will find a ground if there is any possibility. When that happens wonky things occur. In the case here, I suspect the turn signal switch more than anything else. Simply because that is where the choices are made as to which light is being lit and when.