Sam Buchanan

And be sure the retainer gets modified if necessary so it will drain properly:

Nick, I recently needed to replace the felt in the window channels of the TR6 and a common solution is self-adhesive velcro. The 'fuzzy' side of the velcro is a great substitute for the felt that was used many years ago. I bought a roll of 4" velcro and cut it into narrow strips for the channel. I wonder if you could adapt velcro as a weather seal in your application?

I thought the castle nuts and cotter pins on the front anchor bolts are because they're part of the attachment of a front suspension member.....wouldn't want those to come loose.

That's a pretty common mod, a set of Dodge brakes I salvaged had been modified with slots many years ago. I ground flats in my P15 anchor bolts so I could use a wrench. This makes it easier to tighten the nut without turning the bolt and messing up the adjustment. But you still need to use a brake adjustment tool:

Be sure you completely understand the brake adjustment procedures before performing surgery! These brakes are unlike anything on modern cars and require careful study of the manuals to understand how all the adjustments interact. Here is an article from the Tech section of this forum to get you started: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

Would you rather learn how to reline brake shoes or all the computer-based troubleshooting techniques involved in diagnosing a very complex digitally-controlled vehicle? Lot's of skill and training needed to accurately repair modern vehicles.....I'm hesitant to declare which requires more knowledge..... ?

In that case the door switch should be wired to a nice set of lavender-colored LEDs........

I use an electric fuel pump for starting.......matter of fact I also use it for driving....glad I have it since I removed the mechanical pump. ?

Good ol' acetic acid........ ?

Filter is a bypass, works the same way as the filters that were originally on our engines. Here is the thread about the installation: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50622-installing-a-spin-on-bypass-oil-filter-photos/?tab=comments#comment-537063

I open the heater valve........ ?

If originality isn't your highest priority, but reliability is, a 6v alternator will bring your charging system up-to-date and keep your battery fully charged. A hot battery, even at idle, does wonders for your headlights. ? Here is the vendor I used for my 6v alternator, been very pleased with performance, price and support. This is a one-wire alternator, your ancient and trouble-prone regulator is eliminated. Howard Enterprises While you are at it, install new properly sized battery cables so you can get the full potential (pun?) out of your system. (My wiring as been converted to neg ground.)

Don't have an authentic brake tool but if you can't find one you can easily make a tool that will do the job....here is my version: Before removing the wheel drum, one minor cam adjuster is tightened enough to create noticeable drag on the drum. The drum is then removed and the brake tool is threaded onto the axle. The pointer is located over the portion of the shoe that contacted the drum which indicates the ID of the drum and adjusted for a snug fit on the shoe. If you want to get really fancy a 0.006" feeler gauge can be inserted between the pointer and shoe. I tried chalking the shoe to assist with indicating the high point during the initial adjustment but didn't find it to be of any advantage. Notice how these brand new shoes have not yet worn enough to have full contact with the drum. I'll readjust the brakes after some miles have accumulated on the shoes. Once the pointer is adjusted to match the high point of the shoe that was adjusted against the drum, the tool is swept over each shoe so the major and minor cam adjustments can be set so each shoe is concentric with the drum. Hopefully this will remove some of the mystery of adjusting the brakes and provide visual confirmation of proper adjustment.

Nick, if you are going to be wet-sanding paint you might want to hold off on the fender welting. The cutting and buffing process is pretty messy.

Don't know, I'll check. What's the deal with "lynx eye"?

That would be my guess.

Question for the historical experts: Which of these lenses is the correct one for my '48 P-15?

I don't think so............ ?

I went through the same process with my '48 P15. The dual circuit adapters pictured above were added to the taillight sockets along with new wiring from the front of the car. I kept the center brake light so now the car is "modern" with a third brake light. ? The turn signal switch I used manages interrupting the brake light on the side that is 'turn signaling'. It needs to be connected to the brake light switch so it will know when to blink a brake light. Here is a source for the dual filament adapters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vulcan-Universal-Pigtail-Repair-Phenolic-Disc5-8-Double-Contact-Bulb-Socket-Base-/272559900289?hash=item3f75d60681 And the turn signal switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-7-Wire-Turn-Signal-Switch-Signal-Stat-900/143096919345?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Cutting and buffing is a good winter project. If you use a professional buffing compound it will go much quicker than you expect. I recently rejuvenated really poor 15-year-old paint on a TR6 with 1200 wet-dry paper and this compound: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZQ016/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Don't sand in a circular pattern, straight lines only, and I used a lambs wool pad on a rotary buffer. If you want a really deep gloss finish up with a foam pad and polishing compound. The professional products are several steps above the consumer products you buy at a local auto parts house. It's gonna look great!

Along these lines....what would it take to draw 100-ish amps from an alternator? A dead shorted battery?? In the photo below you can see the 60a fuse I installed where the old regulator used to be. I might change it to a 35a. My alternator is rated at 60a but I've never seen the ammeter indicate more than 10-15a for a minute after a cold start with a charged battery. A semi-related story: My RV-6 has a Nippon-Denso based 35a alternator. Some idiot left the master switch on for ten days and ran the Odyssey PC680 battery dead flat. I stupidly (see a trend?) jumped off the plane and watched the poor little alternator pump 49a into the totally dead battery. Within a half hour the alternator was toast, killed by trying to charge the dead battery. Lesson learned----I never jump start a vehicle with a completely dead battery due to the stress it puts on the alternator. Charge the battery for awhile first, then jump start if necessary. The alternator will appreciate you.

60a is more than enough capacity for our cars. The stock regulator can be eliminated or used merely for a terminal junction if you want to retain it for cosmetic reasons. Be sure you check shipping charges for a vendor you are considering. Howard Enterprises doesn't charge additional shipping. There have been recent threads about installing usb power ports, use the forum Search engine.

Howard Enterprises is the vendor I used for my 6v alternator, I'm very please with customer support and the performance of the alternator. This vendor includes shipping in the listed price. https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 About $140 shipped, an optional bracket is available at reasonable cost. That is all that is needed to do the conversion.

What I think is......you will most likely end up considering the alternator to be the best money you have spent on your car if you drive it often. Unless you have electric radiator fans or other high-load devices 60a should be far more than your car will ever need. My P15 gets driven about every week and after a cold start the ammeter will swing over to 10-15a for a minute until the battery is topped up then settle in at about 5a while driving. Turning on the headlights makes no significant difference in the ammeter since the alternator keeps the battery fully charged even at idle.

Practice makes perfect. ? For many of us, replacing the master cylinder in one of these cars is a first-time (and hopefully last-time) experience. The removeable floorboard in my P15 is a greatly appreciated design feature.....it was wonderful while I was going through some tranny yanks and reinstalls.