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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Sam Buchanan
    Uhhhhh......you cut holes in it? At least that's what I did on the VW Beetle I restored.
  2. Sam Buchanan
    We pay good money for wide-whites.....why would we want to cover them up? ?
  3. Sam Buchanan
    If I was about to buy a new clutch disc, I would really want to know which vendor you were dealing with so I could take measures to prevent the same problem with my clutch. You aren't doing anyone any favors by not identifying the vendor...might even be setting the vendor up for more customer returns.
  4. Sam Buchanan
    I would bet you a handful of broken studs that the gasket between the exhaust and intake manifold at the heat riser has failed. There will be a lot of "intake noise" (it is actually exhaust noise) especially if the gasket has failed on the side next to the crankcase. I chased this for awhile until I figured it out.....fixing the leak resulted in a mouse-quiet engine. Just hope the manifold wasn't damaged by the original shop.
  5. Sam Buchanan
    Why mess around with welding cable and trying to find proper fittings and get them installed when $40 will buy a complete set of real cables in the proper gauge including a frame ground cable?
  6. Sam Buchanan
    Glad you found the problem. The old disk would probably run a long time in my car...... ?
  7. Sam Buchanan
    Just as a data point for the archives....the wide-white Coker Classic bias ply tires on my P-15 with stock 15" wheels didn't need an unusual amount of weight to balance and at least 75-80% of the miles I put on the car are driven at 55-60mph. But with no over-drive and the stock brakes I wouldn't drive any faster even with radials. Top speed on my car is limited by gear ratio, brakes and my considerable survival instinct....not bias tires.
  8. Sam Buchanan
    Whatever the color just make sure they are a suitable gauge.
  9. Sam Buchanan
    Ok.......you didn’t tell us you were extracting a broken stud......glad you got it out.
  10. Sam Buchanan
    Uh......maybe grab a handful of bolts and see which one fits?? When I removed the apparatus from my P-15 manifold a found a common bolt that would fit in the manifold, but don't recall what it was....probably 5/16 or 3/8.
  11. Sam Buchanan
    If the springs have floating hooks that is what Andy Berbaum shipped me and when asked they stated that is the correct spring. I don't know if it is or not but it works.
  12. Sam Buchanan
    The bovine by-product meter is pegged on this one..............
  13. Sam Buchanan
    Another difference with my replacement tank is the pickup. The old-style filtered pickup is gone, replaced by a simple tube that ends in the bottom of the tank (I installed a filter next to the tank). The drain is located on the trailing edge of the tank bottom instead of the center of the bottom like my original tank. But these changes along with the standard NPT bung are concessions to modern design that I like since I prefer practicality over originality.
  14. Sam Buchanan
    The replacement tank I have is not designed for the ferrule and original fitting. Try screwing a NPT fitting into the tank, if it starts easily then gradually tightens up you can use an NPT fitting. Put some teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting, run it in until snug and you are good to go. If you use a barb fitting you can use a short length of rubber fuel hose to transition to the steel fuel line (cut off the original fitting). Put a filter between the tank and fuel line because the replacement tank probably has a simple non-filtered pickup tube.
  15. Sam Buchanan
    If you have a replacement tank you probably don't need the hideously expensive ferrule. If your tank has national pipe taper threads all you need is a conventional fitting with no ferrule, probably 1/4" NPT. I used a brass NPT barbed fitting with my replacement tank and a length of 3/8" rubber fuel line between the fitting and fuel line (electric pump in my case).
  16. Sam Buchanan
    Ok....guess I whiffed on that one...and according to my family I am an authority on Dad jokes.... ? A closer look at your photo reveals you did it the "correct way". Carry on, young man!
  17. Sam Buchanan
    Hmmmm.......the suggestion I posted was to use velcro that has the strong stickum already on the velcro, it is pretty aggressive adhesive, no additional glue needed. Also, I used the 'wooly' side of the velcro, not the plastic 'whiskers'.
  18. Sam Buchanan
    Excellent!
  19. Sam Buchanan
    They're probably trying to find a replacement manifold................. ?
  20. Sam Buchanan
    And be sure the retainer gets modified if necessary so it will drain properly:
  21. Sam Buchanan
    Nick, I recently needed to replace the felt in the window channels of the TR6 and a common solution is self-adhesive velcro. The 'fuzzy' side of the velcro is a great substitute for the felt that was used many years ago. I bought a roll of 4" velcro and cut it into narrow strips for the channel. I wonder if you could adapt velcro as a weather seal in your application?
  22. Sam Buchanan
    I thought the castle nuts and cotter pins on the front anchor bolts are because they're part of the attachment of a front suspension member.....wouldn't want those to come loose.
  23. Sam Buchanan
    That's a pretty common mod, a set of Dodge brakes I salvaged had been modified with slots many years ago. I ground flats in my P15 anchor bolts so I could use a wrench. This makes it easier to tighten the nut without turning the bolt and messing up the adjustment. But you still need to use a brake adjustment tool:
  24. Sam Buchanan
    Be sure you completely understand the brake adjustment procedures before performing surgery! These brakes are unlike anything on modern cars and require careful study of the manuals to understand how all the adjustments interact. Here is an article from the Tech section of this forum to get you started: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/
  25. Sam Buchanan
    Would you rather learn how to reline brake shoes or all the computer-based troubleshooting techniques involved in diagnosing a very complex digitally-controlled vehicle? Lot's of skill and training needed to accurately repair modern vehicles.....I'm hesitant to declare which requires more knowledge..... ?
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