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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Sam Buchanan
    Two recent discussions: https://p15-d24.com/topic/53757-old-mopar-flat-head-engine-oil-additives-poll/ https://p15-d24.com/topic/53256-oil/
  2. Sam Buchanan
    Sometimes we do things a bit out of order just for the sake of motivation......and that is ok.
  3. Sam Buchanan
    The pulley has a journal that runs inside the seal. Leaking due to being 71 years old is probably correct, but I doubt the thinner oil is the problem. ?
  4. Sam Buchanan
    Be prepared to order a Speedi sleeve if your damper has any wear on the journal. Part number 99218 was the correct sleeve for the 218 in my P15.
  5. Sam Buchanan
    Ok...inquiring minds are pondering......if the above is valid why isn't this a common problem with our cars, many with worn difs, when they sit between weekend drives?
  6. Sam Buchanan
    Tank came from Vans Auto: https://vansauto.com/product/41-48-dodge-plymouth-desoto-chrysler-6-cylinder-gas-tank/ I've seen listings for tanks for less $$$$'s, don't know if they are from the same manufacturer.
  7. Sam Buchanan
    Checking wheel/tire clearance with the car jacked up may not reveal interference if it occurs with the springs loaded......
  8. Sam Buchanan
    Just as a another datapoint, I bought my MIG at either Tractor Supply or one of the big box stores, can't recall which. It isn't a Lincoln or Miller and it is 110v because I wanted it to be able to use it outside the shop. It has an Argon tank and has delivered a lot of satisfactory welds over the years. The MIG is a great tool to have and you'll end up using it much more than you anticipate. Do whatever you must in order to have excellent near vision with the helmet....good welds are impossible if you can't see what's going on.
  9. Sam Buchanan
    My replacement tank didn't use the ferrule, just had a standard 1/8" NPT thread.
  10. Sam Buchanan
    Dad, your bragging is indeed justified. ?
  11. Sam Buchanan
    Your '51 has more room to work with and probably a thicker/stronger pillar than my '48 with its suicide doors, . Really wish I could squeeze a retractor in there without impinging on the rear floor.
  12. Sam Buchanan
    Thank you, I missed the context of the statement about the 1/4" bolts. I think a lot of our discussion about enhancing safety in these old cars is entirely speculative (and maybe futile?) since these structures weren't designed with safety in mind. Probably the most accurate prediction about a severe crash is that these cars will cave in like a Coke can with unfortunate outcomes for the occupants regardless of seatbelt design. The lap belts in my P15 are mostly a placebo since an F150 is barely going to slow down as it crushes the old Plymouth......
  13. Sam Buchanan
    The seat won't go far......you'll be impaled between the seat and steering column...... I really wish my car had a shoulder harness for the driver....the lap belt won't keep me from being speared by the column. By the way, I've never seen seatbelts secured with 1/4" bolts. All the belts kits I've had came with much larger hardware.
  14. Sam Buchanan
    I have the seat all the way back and don't want a retractor in the backseat floorboard blocking access through the door, haven't figured out how to make this work. A solution might be non-retractable shoulder belts but they are a bit unwieldy to stow.
  15. Sam Buchanan
    All the details from Coker: https://www.cokertire.com/tires/h78-15-coker-classic-3-whitewall-tire.html 28.36", 3" whitewall
  16. Sam Buchanan
    Coker H78 15" bias ply tires, standard rims:
  17. Sam Buchanan
    Please do, am eager to see how you worked with the very limited space in the four-door.
  18. Sam Buchanan
    Sounds like the infamous engine/transmission mount dragon has reared its ugly head again.................. https://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481
  19. Sam Buchanan
    For those who might be following this thread, here is the groove and surface erosion on the crank damper on my 218 (no, the journal isn't cracked, it is a surface flaw): And the Speedi-sleeve installed, I filled the groove with JB Weld prior to installing the sleeve.
  20. Sam Buchanan
    Have you considered a Speedi-sleeve?
  21. Sam Buchanan
    Read the original post...the clutch works for two gears.
  22. Sam Buchanan
    The ones you referenced are the standard bulbs and have less than half the candlepower (3 candlepower) as the microscope bulbs (7 candlepower). That is why the microscope bulbs are the hot setup. You need two bulbs. Buy the microscope bulbs and only do this job once.
  23. Sam Buchanan
    The microscope boobs....er....bulbs are these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  24. Sam Buchanan
    That is probably where the noise was coming from....was in my case. I didn't want the heat riser flap stuff so installed a block-off plate between the manifolds. I plug-welded a tab onto a bolt to plug the flap shaft holes in the manifold.
  25. Sam Buchanan
    It is unlikely your transmission is broken, most likely the linkage is not properly adjusted. I assume you have the service manual for your car and the linkage is connected properly. I would start with adjusting the gear selector rod as shown in the image below. If everything is good with the transmission you will find a setting that will allow you to shift into all gears. If the transmission has been disassembled the shift forks may not be correctly installed: Once again, your manual is your friend.
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