Sam Buchanan

If you see 7.5v at the battery with the engine running your alternator is working regardless of what you see on the ammeter.

Marc, if you strike out with conventional sources you should be able to find a rod end that works from McMaster Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends/corrosion-resistant-ball-joint-rod-ends-9/

Am I supposed to be carrying a jug of water in my P15??

If cold my '48 is started with the choke which has a fast idle of 1200-ish rpm. Hot starts sometime need a little throttle blip, so I have never seen the alternator not charging.....hot idle is ~700.

Yep. ?

That's probably what has happened. The alternator needs to be connected to the same wire that was on the 'battery' terminal of the old regulator, this wire goes directly to the ammeter. That will make the ammeter work the same as before.

The pin can easily be made from the shank of a bolt and the clip from a piece of sheet steel.

If you are seeing 7.5v the alternator is working just fine. I've never seen my one-wire alternator need to be revved to start working, the ammeter shows a charge immediately after the engine starts.

I use a 60a alternator which is more than large enough for the standard system on the P15. The two wires (armature and field) that attach to the generator are not used and are disconnected from the regulator if you leave it in place. The single wire from the alternator connects to the large wire that is on the 'battery' terminal on the old regulator. You can either leave the regulator in place and just use it to connect the alternator wire or remove it and connect the alternator directly to the "battery' lead in the wiring harness (that's what I did). I put a 60a fuse in the alternator line but that is just my decision, it isn't necessary for functionality.

I made my bracket out of 1/8" x 1" steel strap. There are generic alternator brackets available, here are a couple but there are others: https://www.carid.com/spectre/alternator-bracket-mpn-42273.html?view=505407&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD94DAB6qsVNoaJ-qaKbvZQ1JJlD4qN-y5t7uGyIb9w6De2vfUAMpMkaAkVSEALw_wcB https://www.motorcityreman.com/getoalbr.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=getoalbr&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD8tSJwBQm0RqjeNv7asK8o8srqZIcLr9vHbLErPWUpPnLx0N3_eHUcaAr4jEALw_wcB Howard Enterprises, where I got my alternator, also sells an adjustable bracket: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt/Universal-Alternator-Bracket/_i.html?_storecat=7040873016

That would work, matter of fact, a different size notch could be made on a couple of faces of the top 4x4 so it could be rotated for the best fit. I would keep the "notches" shallow, however.

Good thread even if the baby monitors won't work. I try to get these "jack stands" under the car if at all possible:

No return line needed for a carb engine. There must be something wrong with your fuel hose if it bulges with 3 psi.......

Rich, There are numerous scenarios where a single failure will put the car on the side of the road regardless of what systems are in use (broken distributor, broken U-joint, blown out radiator, stuck thermostat, etc, etc, etc, hey....running out of gas!)). I carry a AAA card so I can call for the flatbed. Your single-point of failure is that you still have a voltage regulator instead of a reliable alternator. ? Yes, it is personal choice, but electric is functionally superior. The only sound argument for a mechanical pump is if an owner wants to retain originality.

Why keep the mechanical pump if you have electric? The reason for going electric is to eliminate the mechanical pump. ? I have more confidence in the Carter electric pump pushing fuel from the tank in full-time use than the antique mechanical pump trying to suck fuel all the way to the engine..... The block-off plate is just a piece of 1/8" steel, use your old mechanical pump as a template to make the plate. Add a gasket and use the original pump bolts to install. In regard to priming.....this is a non-issue. By the time you move your hands from the key to the push-to-start switch the carb bowl is full. The installation of an inertia collision shut-off switch is sorta controversial because it introduces a single-point of failure in an otherwise very reliable electric pump system. I ran electric for a year with no reservations until some here on the forum shamed me into adding a collision switch. I still think it is sorta silly in our old cars since all that is needed in a minor collision is to reach over and turn off the ignition to kill the pump. In a major catastrophic crash who knows what condition the uncrashworthy old Mopar and its occupants will be in......the shutoff switch may be a moot point. But I ran the switch on a test light circuit for several weeks, didn't see any false triggers so added it to the pump circuit. The switch is a magnetic Ford device mounted on the firewall where I can easily reset it or unplug it to restore power to the pump if it fails. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Inertia-Switch-5L2Z9341A/233501072656?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And don't call me Shirley.......

Nick, I think your sense of sideways humor may have gone over the heads of a couple of our forum members....... ? Your dad taught you well! ?

You may have to get pretty aggressive with breaking the manifolds loose from the studs. Observation; Once you get everything back together...PLEASE get rid of the plastic fuel filter right next to the exhaust manifold!! ? Proximity to hot engine components is no place for a plastic filter.

Following WWII a young soldier and his bride bought a new 1948 Plymouth which they enjoyed for several years. Decades later, he and his wife decided to use some of their discretionary retirement money to find a 1948 Plymouth in which they could capture some of the enjoyment of their long-ago Plymouth experience. In the late 1980's they found a nice local P-15 which had recently received new paint, interior and an engine rebuild. The couple enjoyed driving their car in local parades and car shows. Seven years ago the couple had passed on and their son had inherited the car. However, he was not a "car guy" and after some initial repair work allowed the car to sit for five years in his garage. The brakes were seized and the car wouldn't run when he decided there was no point in him keeping his Dad's car that just took up space and would always be a money pit for him. Fortunately, I was able to beat another serious buyer to the car since he was convinced I was the right person to return his parent's car to the road. So my P-15 journey began. The cycle is in the process of repeating. It turns out my wife really enjoys riding through the countryside at a relaxed pace in the old Plymouth and I anticipate keeping it for the foreseeable future. I have no idea how much the WWII veteran paid for this P-15, it was probably too much, but it was a great value because it allowed him and his bride to relive part of their youth. I paid too much for it because the son had emotional attachment to the car but it was the car I wanted because I felt it only needed some TLC to be returned to excellent service and cosmetic condition. I had no idea how much I and my bride would enjoy the car. The purchase price was a bargain. So how much is this car worth? As is often the case, market value depends on the perspective of the buyer. ?

I amended my post to read "that would have cost a half million to build in a custom shop." We must keep in mind that not all vintage car fans are gearheads who know how or love to crawl under their vehicles. For these owners the only avenue is to pay someone to build and maintain their cars. As I mentioned earlier....it's all relative. The person who is in a position to pay a shop a few $100K to build a restoration or custom vehicle won't blink at buying an old Mopar for a fraction of what a show paint job or interior would cost. I don't disrespect those well-heeled owners, I admire the effort and years they spent achieving their success. If one of them wants to pay a good price for my Plymouth....I'm fine with it. But my P-15 probably isn't nice enough to get their attention. ?

It seems to me that most of the cars sold at the TV auctions sell for far less than it cost to build them. Somebody is losing their.....shirt. I've often considered how easy it would be to pull $100K out of the piggy bank and bring home a neat collection of three or four cars that would have cost a half million to build in a custom shop.

You only need one buyer...... When a new GMC pickup can cost $100K what's $20-30K for a collector car that nobody else in your circle of friends has? It's all relative. ?

It's all relative. For someone with considerable assets who decides they want a nice old Mopar, the money isn't an issue, probably gets lost in the accounting noise. If the resources are available, and the individual gets to enjoy something they want.......it's a good value regardless of how many zeros. ?

My simple and inexpensive heater valve, sourced from the vintage auto restoration aisle of Lowes if I recall correctly: I slid some rubber hose on the tee-handle to protect my tender and delicate fingers. ?

Also, put at the top of your list a peek into the fuel tank. A rusty fuel system will have you chasing problems that won't go away until you have a clean tank and lines.