Sam Buchanan

Yes, that is to protect the big wire in case the alternator shorted to ground (unlikely). You will like the alternator.....you will never be tempted to go back to the generator. ?

That's what I did when the spin-on bypass filter was installed. You can also see the flex hose for the oil pressure gauge.

Here is my alternator: This is the vendor I used, best price and excellent support: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 The alternator is a single-wire device, internally regulated. The old regulator can be removed or remain in place as just a junction terminal (I threw my old regulator away and returned the new one that was DOA). This is a simple installation and the ammeter continues to work as designed. Your headlights will be brighter at idle and the battery will stay fully charged. No brainer. You can also see the correct gauge battery cables that are essential to making your starter work at full capacity. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html

If you can't reach a good resolution with your old genny and regulator, there are 6v, one-wire (no regulator) alternators available at a very reasonable price. Mine has been flawless and puts out 7.5v @ idle.

What a rubber brake hose looks like after succumbing to long-term attack by brake fluid:

Nick...I thought you had learned not to use your dad's jokes....... ?

Uhhhhh......you cut holes in it? At least that's what I did on the VW Beetle I restored.

We pay good money for wide-whites.....why would we want to cover them up? ?

If I was about to buy a new clutch disc, I would really want to know which vendor you were dealing with so I could take measures to prevent the same problem with my clutch. You aren't doing anyone any favors by not identifying the vendor...might even be setting the vendor up for more customer returns.

I would bet you a handful of broken studs that the gasket between the exhaust and intake manifold at the heat riser has failed. There will be a lot of "intake noise" (it is actually exhaust noise) especially if the gasket has failed on the side next to the crankcase. I chased this for awhile until I figured it out.....fixing the leak resulted in a mouse-quiet engine. Just hope the manifold wasn't damaged by the original shop.

Why mess around with welding cable and trying to find proper fittings and get them installed when $40 will buy a complete set of real cables in the proper gauge including a frame ground cable?

Glad you found the problem. The old disk would probably run a long time in my car...... ?

Just as a data point for the archives....the wide-white Coker Classic bias ply tires on my P-15 with stock 15" wheels didn't need an unusual amount of weight to balance and at least 75-80% of the miles I put on the car are driven at 55-60mph. But with no over-drive and the stock brakes I wouldn't drive any faster even with radials. Top speed on my car is limited by gear ratio, brakes and my considerable survival instinct....not bias tires.

Whatever the color just make sure they are a suitable gauge.

Ok.......you didn’t tell us you were extracting a broken stud......glad you got it out.

Uh......maybe grab a handful of bolts and see which one fits?? When I removed the apparatus from my P-15 manifold a found a common bolt that would fit in the manifold, but don't recall what it was....probably 5/16 or 3/8.

If the springs have floating hooks that is what Andy Berbaum shipped me and when asked they stated that is the correct spring. I don't know if it is or not but it works.

The bovine by-product meter is pegged on this one..............

Another difference with my replacement tank is the pickup. The old-style filtered pickup is gone, replaced by a simple tube that ends in the bottom of the tank (I installed a filter next to the tank). The drain is located on the trailing edge of the tank bottom instead of the center of the bottom like my original tank. But these changes along with the standard NPT bung are concessions to modern design that I like since I prefer practicality over originality.

The replacement tank I have is not designed for the ferrule and original fitting. Try screwing a NPT fitting into the tank, if it starts easily then gradually tightens up you can use an NPT fitting. Put some teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting, run it in until snug and you are good to go. If you use a barb fitting you can use a short length of rubber fuel hose to transition to the steel fuel line (cut off the original fitting). Put a filter between the tank and fuel line because the replacement tank probably has a simple non-filtered pickup tube.

If you have a replacement tank you probably don't need the hideously expensive ferrule. If your tank has national pipe taper threads all you need is a conventional fitting with no ferrule, probably 1/4" NPT. I used a brass NPT barbed fitting with my replacement tank and a length of 3/8" rubber fuel line between the fitting and fuel line (electric pump in my case).

Ok....guess I whiffed on that one...and according to my family I am an authority on Dad jokes.... ? A closer look at your photo reveals you did it the "correct way". Carry on, young man!

Hmmmm.......the suggestion I posted was to use velcro that has the strong stickum already on the velcro, it is pretty aggressive adhesive, no additional glue needed. Also, I used the 'wooly' side of the velcro, not the plastic 'whiskers'.

Excellent!

They're probably trying to find a replacement manifold................. ?