Sam Buchanan

Sounds like your ammeter is probably wired backwards. Switch the wires on the two terminals and you should see a slight charge when running and a slight discharge when idling. Is your truck still positive ground? If someone switched it to negative ground they probably didn't change the ammeter wires. I don't have a suggestion for the missing, but it has to be something with fuel delivery or electrical. Is the battery being fulled charged by the generator? Has battery voltage dropped following the misfiring episodes? Check battery voltage after the hiccups and also put a meter across the battery terminals to make sure you are seeing ~7.4v at mid-rpm. If not the battery voltage may be dropping enough to cause the misfires.

No, based on a fairly busy general aviation airport.

If you go with a 6v fan you need to consider upgrading to an alternator.

I was watching an episode of 'Jay Leno's Garage' recently and Jay mentioned that even though he is no fan of "repairs in a bottle" he found changing to Redline MTL in one of his cars fixed the balky shifting.

We have low-rpm engines........ ? Shell's Rotella T4 15W-40 is a popular (diesel) oil for many non-diesel applications. I'm probably going to go that direction at next oil change.

Andy, keep in mind that any attachment you delete will disappear from the message in which you embedded it. So make sure you don't delete a photo that you want to remain in the archives for millennia...... Now....from now on when you want to use an image you have used previously, and you haven't deleted it, you can select it from 'Insert other Media', 'Insert Existing Attachment' and you won't need to upload it again. This will help you control the size of your attachment folder. Class dismissed! ?

Maok, he may be using glass plates.........

Andy, go back to your attachments and click the box at the right end of an attachment listing that you want to delete. When you click the box a check with appear and a Delete option will appear at the bottom of your screen. You can check as many boxes as you wish. Click on the trash can and all the attachments you have selected will be deleted.

I needed another fan for the airplane hangar and bought this one from Habba Fright: https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-pedestal-shop-fan-47755.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTIzNjA3MDIiLCJza3UiOiI0Nzc1NSIsImlzIjoiMTE0Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p ZCI6IjE1MTcifQ%3D%3D &cid=digitalSav_july2020 This fan really moves a lot of air, much more than the 30" floor fan I was using. The coupon linked above gets it for $115 and I consider it a great shop value. I added some small castors to the base for ease of moving around the hangar but chocks are necessary to keep it from taxiing when running on high!

Andy, you check the box next to each attachment you want to delete and hit the 'Delete' option that pops up. This will delete your attachment on the p15-d24 server, not the image on your home computer. When you add an attachment to one of your posts, it gets stored in 'My Attachments' on the p15-d24 server, and you have filled up your attachments corral and need to thin the herd. ? But scroll through your 'My Attachments' and look for attachments that are duplicates and remove them first. As you remove attachments you will see the fuel gauge in 'Attachment Quota' come off the full peg.

Man....I hate it when the oil turns green................. ?

Andy, You might go into your attachments catalog to see if you can delete photos that are no longer needed. I've seen you post photos of your car many times and if you adding those photos as new attachments each time instead of pulling them out of your existing attachments you are eating up storage every time you post them. Click on your screen name at the upper right corner, then select 'My Attachments' to see what you have uploaded. You can check the box for unwanted attachments and delete them.

Excellent! Get a stud extractor and you may be able to get some of the studs out without needing to drill them. Wow.........a plastic fuel filter right next to the exhaust manifold.........

Is there a way we can check our quota? Nevermind; found it in Account, My Attachments.

I replaced the driver side glass in my P15 a couple of weeks ago and ran into a similar problem. One of the regulator pins was secured to the glass channel by a non-standard clip that was made in such a way that there was no way to remove it in the confines of the door. After messing with it for quite some time I decided to take drastic but necessary action. I drilled out the head of the pin in the regulator so the entire pin could be removed and the glass pulled from the door. After removing the funky clip the pin was welded back into the regulator without needing to remove the regulator from the door. I found some wire clips at a local old-school auto parts store that I used to reinstall the window. This sounds like an extreme solution but it actually isn't for someone with a mig welder.

I'll buy that. The longer stroke engine has different power delivery than a short stroke......and anyone who has driven one of our old torquey cars has seen that first-hand!

Just for fun...... If your 15" tires have about the same diameter as mine, you are running 2800 rpm @ 65 mph which is a piston speed of 2042 ft/min. That is a good number and shows the advantage of a highway rear end ratio.

I still don't get it, and that is ok because whether or not I understand doesn't have any impact on my P15. But....if we have two crankshafts with identical strokes running at the same rpm, one with a rod one foot long, the other with a rod six feet long..........the piston is going to see the same speed and rate of acceleration and deceleration in both cases. Inertia is a function of speed, and speed in this case is dictated by crankshaft stroke and rpm, not rod length. There will be less angular velocity at the crank and piston pins with the longer rod and this might decrease wear on the bearings due to less total rotation, but I don't see how this effects inertial impact on the system. If the two rods are constructed the same way the longer rod will have greater mass which increases inertia on total reciprocating mass. This is fun but I suspect the boredom quotient for the forum members is increasing faster than piston speed.........

Inertia is a function of mass and velocity so I'm having a hard time visualizing your statements. But that is ok...I'm not an engineer and don't have to design engines for long service. I agree our flatties were optimized for a day and age of two-lane highways and they work great in that environment. A few days ago the wife and I spent some time on a rural two-lane highway and the P15 was as content as I've ever seen it at 50-55 mph. The combination of road speed, engine speed and chassis handling all came together........I think that is what that car was designed for.

I think it would be accurate to say the length of the rod isn't a primary factor but the length of crankshaft throw will effect the acceleration/deceleration of the reciprocating mass at the ends of the stroke at a particular rpm.

Piston speed is a major factor in how fast an engine can be operated safely. Our engines are long-stroke designs which drive up piston speed in comparison to modern short-stroke engines. The problem with high piston speed is not only accelerated wear in the cylinder bore but much higher stress on rod and crank bearings as the piston reverses travel at each end of the stroke. Just for grins I ran the numbers comparing my P15's 218 with my F-150's 3.5 Ecoboost V6. Smaller modern engines will have strokes even shorter than the 3.5 V6 and that is why they often have high redlines. I used the piston speed calculator here: 218 (3.6 L) stroke 4.375" rpm 3600 piston speed 2625 ft/min 3.5 Ecoboost (3.5 L) stroke 3.4" rpm 4700 piston speed 2663 ft/min It is evident that at 3600rpm the 218 is generating the same piston speed as the modern V6 does at 4700 rpm which is close to its 5000 rpm redline. Let's rework the numbers to where many have stated is a sustainable rpm for the 218: 218 rpm 3200 piston speed 2333 ft/min 3.5 Ecoboost rpm 4100 piston speed 2323 I don't think any F-150 owner would want to run their 3.5 at 4100 rpm for an extended period of time. Yet this is the same piston speed that is advocated for our 218's by those who say 80-85% of rated rpm is safe for an extended time. Everyone is free to do as they wish but my P15 (no overdrive, 3.91)is operated between 55-60 mph on the highway in order to keep piston speed (1860 ft/min) in a range that I think is conducive to good engine life.

The only emissions choice these cars had to deal with was whether the occupants were smoking Camels or Lucky Strikes....... ?

The primary advantage for changing polarity on my car was because that is the way I wanted it. ?

Turn the battery around so you can connect the ground cable to the negative post of the battery. Leave the other cable disconnected while you swap the wires on the ammeter. Once that is done connect the positive post of the battery to the other cable. The article states it is not necessary to switch the wires on the ignition coil. You will get various opinions on this but the coil will function either way. That's it.

Advanced. When you face the front of the engine it is rotating clockwise. The blue line (10*) arrives at the pointer before the 0 line.