Mac McFarland

I'd sure like to give it a try. How do I contact you (if you are willing to send it my way)?

Here it is...about 5.75 inches (both 'ends' are extended as far as they can go for this measurement).

Los-Control....I'll take one off today and measure.

No problem TodFitch....I'll keep looking. (and asking!). Push come to shove, -$50!

TodFitch...actually, that spring does not look quite like the ones I have on the vehicle...I'll take a picture later (today?) and attach. Soth...that spring also is not look like it...(i'll attach an image I found on the net that is really, really close, if not exact). Ivan...yes, tried eBay...found the same as the picture attached...45-50 USD for set of 4. But these look oh so similar to the ones on my coupe. Just expensive.

I finally got around to attempt to fix everything on my 34 coupe. I have replaced all wheel cylinders and brake pads. On one wheel, there was an incorrect spring...MUCH to strong for that vehicle. I have searched for a replacement, but can't really find any. I DID find a set of 6 that 'looked' similar, but cost $50 USD. Didn't want to make that purchase for two reasons...too expensive (as I only need one) and unsure if they would fit. Does anyone know where I can obtain ONE brake drum return spring to fit a 1934 Plymouth PE Deluxe coupe? (I can remove a 'good' one and take a picture of it if it would assist in identifying one.

Thx....I will try it in a bit.

(Rear Main, not Real Main)

Well, Hi once again. I was (finally) successful in getting my 34 Plymouth started and running (although I DO see some oil leaks) thanks to those who replied a few months ago. I also finally got around to rebuilding my master cylinder, but am having difficulty getting the brakes bled (but I will get that eventually as I purchased the hand pump to replenish fluid in the lines). But, that is not my immediate issue. I wanted to back the car out of my basement garage the other day, so put all tires back on (had removed them for easier access/viewing when bleeding the brakes), and started the car. I then attempted to shift into reverse. Grinding. The clutch 'feels' relatively okay (but hard to tell really how much pressure there is versus what needs to be). I have the Maintenance Manual (on CD/computer/book) and doesn't really give much guidance on the procedures for replacing the clutch/pressure plate (and don't know if that is my issue or not). I can shift into a gear when the engine is not running, but not when it is. It appears I MAY have to replace the clutch, but wanted to ask a few questions before this 71 year old attempts such a grandiose feat!: Would low fluid level in the tranny cause this? (Don't think so, but wanted to ask...haven't looked on how to check that level yet.) Would engine/tranny removal be the best option before clutch replacement, or lying on back and doing in place (unfortunately, I do not have a lift---always wanted one, but basement height is only 10 feet.)? Are clutch parts for this automobile available somewhere? IS there some sort of adjustment in lieu of replacement? PS--I IMAGINE that the real main seal MAY need to be replaced (like I said, saw oil leaks on floor, just not sure where it is coming from---car HAS been sitting for about a decade). Would that process be better done under the car or with engine/transmission removed from the vehicle? Advice?

Well, gentlemen....you have been a fantastic source of knowledge. I finally received the AirTex 587 fuel pump in ($67) and installed it today (had some difficulty at first, even though I had reinstalled the old twice recently). Anyway, it was the fuel problem. The car now starts right up, and runs fine. Thanks to EVERYONE for their advice and sharing knowledge (I do the same on a program-development website where I advise/help people with programming issues/questions). Now, as the car has been sitting idle for 10 years, I expected some oil leaks (dried gaskets). And, lo and behold, there are some. I have not identified precisely where the leaks are yet (but I will), but I suspect one from the transmission, and one from the oil pan. I guess my question would be, do I have to remove the engine in order to remove the oil pan and replace that gasket? What is the procedure for removing the oil pan? Next step (in addition to stopping oil leaks) is to get the brakes working...have rebuilt and reinstalled the master cylinder and one broken brake line (am getting assistance from friends to assist in bleeding the brakes). Then, register the vehicle here in NC. Then, enjoy some local trips! So, thanks everyone...but would like advice on that oil pan if that is where I suspect the oil leaks to originate. Mac

Well, I do a LOT of Amazon buying, and if this does NOT fit/work I can get my money back, NQA. So, I ordered the one from them $67). Will be in in a couple of weeks. In the meantime, Thanks for these leads. I hope to be speaking to Then N Now on Monday and see if they have a kit...I may have to send them photos of mine as there is nothing stamped on it, just that attached tag. If they do, I may order the kit from them (depending on cost) and when the Amazon one comes in, return it. The other option is to see if anyone knows if that FPA-16 kit shown in an image by keithb7 will fit, I can order that---found that online earlier. It sure DOES LOOK like an AirTex 587.

The only identifier is a metal tag under one of the top screws with the number 587 on it. I just wonder if that kit (FPA-16) shown above has the correct parts to rebuild it. I had already removed the bowl when it was still on the car...nudged it back and forth and finally popped off. I've rebuilt small motor carbs before, so expect this not to be a difficult task...just identifying the correct parts to order is my issue. See small tag with #'s.

This is the image of the OUTSIDE of my pump. I saw this kit out there, but wonder if it is the correct one. Watcha think? I have one Service Manual I purchased (supposedly reprint of an original)---not that good---not that much detail. I found a .pdf of a '36-'40 online which is good, but not exact for my car. My dad used Motor Manuals a lot (on the farm)...wonder if I can find one dating back to 34 for a Plymouth.

Left message with Then N Now (closed Sats). Hopefully they will have what I need.

Hmmmm...think I may have found one online: https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/checker-fuel-pump-kit-1932-1933-1934-t/ When looking for a pump at Hagen's Auto Parts, it mentioned an FP411 and FP419 (I don't know what model mine is). That link above mentions an FPA-16. Wonder if all is the same.